Fuel gauge and valve questions

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Dmack

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Hello all,

I have been trying to troubleshoot my system to get my gauge to work.

I have an 83 K20 with dual tanks. I have sender readings at both the A and C connections on the weather pack connector. When I plug it into the pollack valve, I don't have a reading at the B wire to the gauge. I have cycled the switch with the key in the on position and still nothing.

I have confirmed that the switch has power at the dash, and that it reverses polarity at the weather pack to the valve.

I have plugged in another pollack valve into the connector (spare used pollack valve) with the same results.

The wire from the B terminal to the gauge was cut under the firewall when I got the truck and I have been working my way from tank valve forward.

My initial assumption was that the switch inside the valve was shot, but I am questioning that when I have the same result on two different, albeit used, valves.

Am I missing something or do I need to get a new pollack valve?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
 

C10MixMaster

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Hello all,

I have been trying to troubleshoot my system to get my gauge to work.

I have an 83 K20 with dual tanks. I have sender readings at both the A and C connections on the weather pack connector. When I plug it into the pollack valve, I don't have a reading at the B wire to the gauge. I have cycled the switch with the key in the on position and still nothing.

I have confirmed that the switch has power at the dash, and that it reverses polarity at the weather pack to the valve.

I have plugged in another pollack valve into the connector (spare used pollack valve) with the same results.

The wire from the B terminal to the gauge was cut under the firewall when I got the truck and I have been working my way from tank valve forward.

My initial assumption was that the switch inside the valve was shot, but I am questioning that when I have the same result on two different, albeit used, valves.

Am I missing something or do I need to get a new pollack valve?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.


If you suspect the valve , disconnect it and run a jumper wire between a-b then c-b , also check the weather pack connector to see if the b terminal is damaged, Tug on the B wire see if it pulls lose from the connector.
 

Dmack

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Dave
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If you suspect the valve , disconnect it and run a jumper wire between a-b then c-b , also check the weather pack connector to see if the b terminal is damaged, Tug on the B wire see if it pulls lose from the connector.


Thanks for the suggestions. I have continuity from the weather pack to the firewall through the gauge wire. I'm not sure if I will accomplish anything jumping a or C to the B terminal. It should be switched inside the valve, at least my understanding is that when it switches tanks, it will also switch the sender signal to the gauge, but I will try it.
 

Dmack

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Central OR
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Dave
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1983
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K20
Engine Size
350
I probably got myself all screwed up. But your wire to the gauge from the switch is good correct?

This thread might help... https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/dual-tank-operation.20921/

thanks for the help. I'm not hooked up to the gauge yet as I'm working my way forward from the switch to the valve and then the gauge. The switch is working, but I can get the sender ohm reading through the valve. Normally I would conclude a bad valve, but since I'm having the same problem with two different valves, I want to make sure I'm not missing something obvious before buying another.
 

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