ESC need someone that knows more about ESC system than I do

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SirRobyn0

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Ok so I pulled the carb and EGR off the engine this morning. Tried all my tricks including blowing compressed air thought the EGR ports. I could get a piece of tissue put over the carb mount to move a little when I applied compressed air to the EGR port. The EGR to exhaust port is clearly wide open. What I could pull out of the EGR port on the manifold side was thick oily nasty substance. After the work pulling a vacuum on the EGR valve with the engine running resulted in no RPM change. I did not have time to tackle the knock sensor this morning.

Now I have to decide if I want to pull the manifold and try to clean this one out or buy an edelbrock.

So just to be clear I'm having more issue with ping since I changed distributors and put the old one back in. To me there could be a lot of reasons for that, but since it's all come up around the time of the anti-fouler install I should probably pull that out to and see if it is a contributing factor. Not sure how it could be, but it's a recent change.

350 is looking more and more attractive, but dang I don't wanna spend the money.
 

AuroraGirl

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Ok so I pulled the carb and EGR off the engine this morning. Tried all my tricks including blowing compressed air thought the EGR ports. I could get a piece of tissue put over the carb mount to move a little when I applied compressed air to the EGR port. The EGR to exhaust port is clearly wide open. What I could pull out of the EGR port on the manifold side was thick oily nasty substance. After the work pulling a vacuum on the EGR valve with the engine running resulted in no RPM change. I did not have time to tackle the knock sensor this morning.

Now I have to decide if I want to pull the manifold and try to clean this one out or buy an edelbrock.

So just to be clear I'm having more issue with ping since I changed distributors and put the old one back in. To me there could be a lot of reasons for that, but since it's all come up around the time of the anti-fouler install I should probably pull that out to and see if it is a contributing factor. Not sure how it could be, but it's a recent change.

350 is looking more and more attractive, but dang I don't wanna spend the money.
I mean I dont know how the port runs internally but can you fish wire throught it or do you think its occuring further down where you would need to have it pulled off? The thing you state , the oily black gooey sounds like good ol EGR and miles lol.
 

SirRobyn0

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I mean I dont know how the port runs internally but can you fish wire throught it or do you think its occuring further down where you would need to have it pulled off? The thing you state , the oily black gooey sounds like good ol EGR and miles lol.
It would be pretty tough to run a wire totally though it as it it's not a straight shot at all.
 

SirRobyn0

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So I've got the spark plug thread going and this thread going and sometimes it's hard for me to decide where to post what so I'll probably throw this into both threads since it crosses over, but I'm going to do a quick recap for anyone who has forgotten or hasn't been following, or if I forgot any of this in either thread.

So last weekend I installed the non-fouler. I drove it to work on Monday, installed the regular HEI distributor in an attempt to get away from the ESC system. Drove it to the farm Monday and had to pull over disconnect the vac advance and twist the distributor to retard it to get it to stop pinging. Tuesday morning on the way into work I had a severe ping fest on a hill with no where to pull off. I tried to baby it, but it was pinging BAD. Tuesday at work I pulled the standard HEI distributor and reinstalled the old ESC distributor because even though the ESC isn't currently working, as long as I leave the vac advance disconnected it doesn't ping. Well since then it's been pinging mildly, under certain conditions, moderately under just the right conditions. Also discovered my EGR passage in the intake manifold is clogged.

So today I did some good work and made some progress. This morning I attempted to clear the EGR passages by cleaning what I could and blowing air though the passage with the intake still on the truck. This was unsuccessful, I did not have time to pull plugs, run a comp test or try to get the knock sensor out of the block before I had to go into town. As expected it pinged just like it did yesterday.

So next weekend I have to tow my big trailer about 100 miles. I need to plan for that. I either need the truck back where it was before I started "fixing it" or in better yet actually better, or I need to decide to tow it with the Jeep which I have towed that trailer with the Jeep locally I'd have to take back roads as I do not trust it's stability with that trailer at highways speeds. So this afternoon I had things to do on the farm, but I decided to take a little bit of time and do a little more with the truck.

So I pulled all the plugs and ran a compression test. One of my concerns was the severe ping on that hill, and I wanted to see if there was an sign of piston material melted into any of the plugs. Well no, no signs of that and the compression test which the result was very good, all cylinders very even and well within 10% of each other, with the one using oil #7 being just a tiny bit higher than the rest. So basically she's healthy in that respect. I put 7 of the CR43TS plugs back in and one R45TS in #7 the one that has had oil fouling issues. Did NOT put the non-fouler thing back in.

Just when I was finishing with that, I got a call and had to take the truck into town again. Guess what. Idle is back to super smooth and the new pinging issue is gone. I still get a lot of ping if I hook the vac can up, so I still need to fix the plugged EGR passages, and knock sensor, but I'm back to where I was before at least. And I'm happy to have gotten back to that at least.
 

AuroraGirl

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So I've got the spark plug thread going and this thread going and sometimes it's hard for me to decide where to post what so I'll probably throw this into both threads since it crosses over, but I'm going to do a quick recap for anyone who has forgotten or hasn't been following, or if I forgot any of this in either thread.

So last weekend I installed the non-fouler. I drove it to work on Monday, installed the regular HEI distributor in an attempt to get away from the ESC system. Drove it to the farm Monday and had to pull over disconnect the vac advance and twist the distributor to retard it to get it to stop pinging. Tuesday morning on the way into work I had a severe ping fest on a hill with no where to pull off. I tried to baby it, but it was pinging BAD. Tuesday at work I pulled the standard HEI distributor and reinstalled the old ESC distributor because even though the ESC isn't currently working, as long as I leave the vac advance disconnected it doesn't ping. Well since then it's been pinging mildly, under certain conditions, moderately under just the right conditions. Also discovered my EGR passage in the intake manifold is clogged.

So today I did some good work and made some progress. This morning I attempted to clear the EGR passages by cleaning what I could and blowing air though the passage with the intake still on the truck. This was unsuccessful, I did not have time to pull plugs, run a comp test or try to get the knock sensor out of the block before I had to go into town. As expected it pinged just like it did yesterday.

So next weekend I have to tow my big trailer about 100 miles. I need to plan for that. I either need the truck back where it was before I started "fixing it" or in better yet actually better, or I need to decide to tow it with the Jeep which I have towed that trailer with the Jeep locally I'd have to take back roads as I do not trust it's stability with that trailer at highways speeds. So this afternoon I had things to do on the farm, but I decided to take a little bit of time and do a little more with the truck.

So I pulled all the plugs and ran a compression test. One of my concerns was the severe ping on that hill, and I wanted to see if there was an sign of piston material melted into any of the plugs. Well no, no signs of that and the compression test which the result was very good, all cylinders very even and well within 10% of each other, with the one using oil #7 being just a tiny bit higher than the rest. So basically she's healthy in that respect. I put 7 of the CR43TS plugs back in and one R45TS in #7 the one that has had oil fouling issues. Did NOT put the non-fouler thing back in.

Just when I was finishing with that, I got a call and had to take the truck into town again. Guess what. Idle is back to super smooth and the new pinging issue is gone. I still get a lot of ping if I hook the vac can up, so I still need to fix the plugged EGR passages, and knock sensor, but I'm back to where I was before at least. And I'm happy to have gotten back to that at least.
the vac advance is possibly not working right or maybe it needs adjustment if its able to be. The ones that take an allen tool inside the opening maybe? Or if its a straight up leaky diaphram maybe your leaning out?
 

Catbox

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Thanks, I might take you up on that, but I have to have an EGR manifold and I can't tell from the picture if that's an EGR port with a block off plate or for a choke stove. Thanks.
I am fairly positive that it is a bolt on block off.
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SirRobyn0

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I am fairly positive that it is a bolt on block off.
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Well I've basically decided I'd like to replace the manifold, vs trying to clear the current one. Would you be willing to take the plate off and take a photo of what's under it? If it look right I'll buy it from ya. Thanks
 

Catbox

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Well I've basically decided I'd like to replace the manifold, vs trying to clear the current one. Would you be willing to take the plate off and take a photo of what's under it? If it look right I'll buy it from ya. Thanks
I can do that for ya.
It will be later today at the earliest.

I will post up when I have it out of its hidey hole and has the plate removed.
:)
 

Ken B

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If ESC has been shortcut/bypassed and this plug is not in use is there any need to keep it?



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SirRobyn0

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If ESC has been shortcut/bypassed and this plug is not in use is there any need to keep it?



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No technically there is no need to keep it. You could cut it off pull the wires though the firewall and make it like it was never there, but keep in mind that is final. Once you chop the wires it would be harder to go back to ESC if you wanted to.
 

Ken B

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Wires are tied together at distributor. if I did anything it might be to upgrade distributor. I am cleaning up interior fire wall. if it doesnt need to be there i may pull it
 

Bextreme04

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I am fairly positive that it is a bolt on block off.
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It is a block off plate, but it is for the choke, not an EGR port. It is so that you can use either the thermostatic choke spring OR the hot air choke tube that sits down in the passage way. The one that everyone seams to get and is usually readily available is the 2101, which is non-EGR spreadbore for a SBC. The one you want is a 3701, which is SBC spreadbore WITH EGR. It might be to your benefit, since they will be less desirable for the "performance" guys that are swapping in edelbrock intake manifold usually, but it can make it much harder to find one used, since they are less desirable.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/35...Dd1VhrRzeBdsMpOu3YoVcKv5ZGZqsCVMaAmJqEALw_wcB

Edit: meant to reply to @SirRobyn0, but apparently only got catbox
 

Catbox

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piKTurEs fRuM tHE linC:
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Some of the crap they link to in the above description
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And the choke thingy that the intake that I have has installed.
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SirRobyn0

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It is a block off plate, but it is for the choke, not an EGR port. It is so that you can use either the thermostatic choke spring OR the hot air choke tube that sits down in the passage way. The one that everyone seams to get and is usually readily available is the 2101, which is non-EGR spreadbore for a SBC. The one you want is a 3701, which is SBC spreadbore WITH EGR. It might be to your benefit, since they will be less desirable for the "performance" guys that are swapping in edelbrock intake manifold usually, but it can make it much harder to find one used, since they are less desirable.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/35...Dd1VhrRzeBdsMpOu3YoVcKv5ZGZqsCVMaAmJqEALw_wcB

Edit: meant to reply to @SirRobyn0, but apparently only got catbox
They are around $125 - $150 used on E-bay, I haven't seen one locally.

piKTurEs fRuM tHE linC:
You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


Some of the crap they link to in the above description
You must be registered for see images attach


And the choke thingy that the intake that I have has installed.
You must be registered for see images attach
Yes that would be the style I need but there is no way in heck I'm paying $317.00 for it.
 

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