edelbrock avs2 650

[bucket]

Most every carbureted vehicle I've ever owned has needed the throttle cracked open at least a little on a hot start after it sat for 15 minutes or so. Some more than others, just depends on the weather and each specific vehicle. Holleys, Edelbrocks, Quadrajets, 2Jets... all of them. Sounds perfectly normal to me.

 

[1lejohn]

Most every carbureted vehicle I've ever owned has needed the throttle cracked open at least a little on a hot start after it sat for 15 minutes or so. Some more than others, just depends on the weather and each specific vehicle. Holleys, Edelbrocks, Quadrajets, 2Jets... all of them. Sounds perfectly normal to me.

You also have to pump the gas pedal to get some fuel into the intake. I guess Fuel Injection has us all spoiled.

 

[Bextreme04]

Most every carbureted vehicle I've ever owned has needed the throttle cracked open at least a little on a hot start after it sat for 15 minutes or so. Some more than others, just depends on the weather and each specific vehicle. Holleys, Edelbrocks, Quadrajets, 2Jets... all of them. Sounds perfectly normal to me.

A properly set up carburetor and engine should not need this. My original quadrajet has updated idle mix screws, secondary rods, and converted to electric choke. Other than that it is all stock. I have a mildly built 350 with bumped up compression and a mild cam and stock everything else. One pump on a normal 30-60 degree day and it fires right up after 2-3 cranks and sits on the high idle step. Starts @900rpm and builds to 1200-1300RPM once warm. Slight tap on the throttle and it drops to the set 750rpm out of gear. If it is sub-30 degrees out I'll use two pumps and get the same startup behaviour. Once it's warm, if I park and go into a store or get some lunch and come back out to it, I just hop right in and it is a single rotation and it fires right up to the hot idle speed. There is absolutely no extended cranking or holding the throttle open at all to get it to fire up when warm.

 

[bucket]

A properly set up carburetor and engine should not need this. My original quadrajet has updated idle mix screws, secondary rods, and converted to electric choke. Other than that it is all stock. I have a mildly built 350 with bumped up compression and a mild cam and stock everything else. One pump on a normal 30-60 degree day and it fires right up after 2-3 cranks and sits on the high idle step. Starts @900rpm and builds to 1200-1300RPM once warm. Slight tap on the throttle and it drops to the set 750rpm out of gear. If it is sub-30 degrees out I'll use two pumps and get the same startup behaviour. Once it's warm, if I park and go into a store or get some lunch and come back out to it, I just hop right in and it is a single rotation and it fires right up to the hot idle speed. There is absolutely no extended cranking or holding the throttle open at all to get it to fire up when warm.

I dunno, I've driven a lot of low mile, bone stock carb vehicles and it's typical to need at least a smidge of throttle on a warm restart after it's sat for 15 minutes or so. I realize it's been many years now and stuff is old, but even back in the 90's when stuff was newer, that was the case. It was one of the first lessons taught to me by my dad. I'm not old enough to have experience with them right off the showroom floor, but iirc, it's even on the 'starting instructions' decal on the 80's GM sun visors.

 

[bucket]

And by 'low mile', I mean 10k or under.

 

[75gmck25]

When you do a cold start there is no fuel in the intake manifold, and if it’s been sitting for several days there may be no fuel (or very little) in the float bowl). It needs some fuel to get going.
Cold - My procedure is to first pump the throttle 2-3 times and then crank the ignition with my foot off the accelerator. If the truck has been started within the last couple days it will usually then fire. However, if weather has dropped down into the teens it’s may not keep running easily. I often have to let it idle several minutes before it pulls without a part throttle bog.
- If it has been several days since driving the truck, I also first pump the throttle 2-3 times to add fuel and set the choke , but it may not fire because the float bowl has nothing for the accelerator pump to pump. I then turn it over again for a few seconds so the mechanical pump can fill the float bowl, and then do my normal cold start procedure.

For a hot restart I usually just crank ignition and keep my foot off the throttle. If I pump the throttle when it’s hot it gets too much fuel and floods.

 

[greyghost]

automatic choke needs properly adjusted, same with timing, too far advanced

 

[Bextreme04]

I dunno, I've driven a lot of low mile, bone stock carb vehicles and it's typical to need at least a smidge of throttle on a warm restart after it's sat for 15 minutes or so. I realize it's been many years now and stuff is old, but even back in the 90's when stuff was newer, that was the case. It was one of the first lessons taught to me by my dad. I'm not old enough to have experience with them right off the showroom floor, but iirc, it's even on the 'starting instructions' decal on the 80's GM sun visors.

I'm just curious why you would think that is? The throttle is set to provide the proper amount of air and fuel flow for the vehicle to idle properly(750rpm in neutral in my case) without toughing the throttle pedal. The only thing I can think of that would require a touch of throttle would be to help clear a rich condition in the manifold from it sitting or maybe a small squirt of gas from the accelerator pump to help get it going?

I will say, that the key here is properly set up and adjusted carb and timing. Mine is dialed in with an AFR gauge and lots of fiddling. One pump on a cold start and no touching of the throttle for a warm or hot start. Fires in just a few cranks just like an EFI vehicle. If it hasn't run in a few days, I will usually have to crank it for 2-3 seconds to fill the bowl, then a single pump and it fires right up on the high idle and choke. Ready to drive immediately with no issues.

 

[idahovette]

Sorry.....NOT in my world.^^^^^^^^^ I have the same reaction with my square as as Andy @bucketand that's ok. I'm used to it and I adapted

 

[Bextreme04]

Sorry.....NOT in my world.^^^^^^^^^ I have the same reaction with my square as as Andy @bucketand that's ok. I'm used to it and I adapted

Not saying you guys don't have that experience. Just saying you don't have to. Just because you have always set up your carbs to need to touch the throttle to start them, doesn't mean you NEED to set them up that way.

And by 'low mile', I mean 10k or under.

Just because it's new, doesn't mean it is right. It's just like the difference between taking a new off the lot modern EFI vehicle with the stock, canned, good enough for everybody with every engine tune and then comparing it to the drivability, power, and economy of a vehicle that has even a moderate amount of tuning done to it. It's not uncommon on a stock tune to see 5-15% LTFT's on it as the computer adjusts everything to the specific conditions of THAT specific engine compared to the tune that is designed to work on EVERY engine of that model. The factory leaves a lot on the table because they are mass producing something to work for every specimen of that vehicle. If you took that new, less than 10k mile vehicle and gave the carb and timing a good tuning adjustment for the specific engine and environmental conditions, I bet you wouldn't have that problem any more.