Driveshafts and Lifts

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theblindchicken

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K10 5" lift + 2" BL
Engine Size
350-4, 0.030" over
While we're on it, whats the stock frame height for our trucks?
 

CSFJ

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While we're on it, whats the stock frame height for our trucks?
I want to say that's in the service manual info in the library. Where it gives all the wheelbase and track width measurements.
 

Iowan

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Calvin
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K1500
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350 crate
I do. Maybe you could google professions that use algebra?


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I could. I remember them talking about it on the radio, one guy said his favorite way of learn algebra, was when he enlisted and they put him with the Sappers. They had to do algebra to place charges on the bridge and then they would blow it up, at least you can make it fun.
 

Battlac40

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Get aluminum ones i'm really impressed with the one I got for my Mustang.
 

Big Chip

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I could. I remember them talking about it on the radio, one guy said his favorite way of learn algebra, was when he enlisted and they put him with the Sappers. They had to do algebra to place charges on the bridge and then they would blow it up, at least you can make it fun.
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mavtricks71

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az
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mike
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1986
Truck Model
k10
Engine Size
350
My blazer has 9 inch , all suspension lift , built for street and off road use , so this is what I did.

lowered the t-case 1 inch
custom built driveshafts
front end not rolled up
rear end rolled up (perches)
sway bar removed

Rolling the front up make's your square drive like crap , (mine is flat , no shim) , i used all stock spicer parts , longest slip yoke I could get and had to grind out some spots in the double cardan for downward travel, (you would not need to do that on a street truck), and had to be longer as well.

The rear shaft is just longer , I had to play with different shims to get the angle right , to have no vibrations and no wheel hop. Your t-case angle and pinion angle should be the same with a u-joint shaft , (mine is not but works well) but that is hard to do with big lift so having a double cardan shaft made is the way to go if you dont want to mess with trying to figure out a sweet spot with shims but you may still have to play with it a bit to be perfect, (rolling diff up).

I am not a fan of slip yoke's in the t-case so I have nothing to say on that ,

You will also have to have a steering box brace kit , (big tire's kill frame's)

Crossover steering is the way to go , but if you dont go that route you will need the tallest steering arm you can find and a drop pittman arm as well. Then if your draglink is way off from flat you may need an s shaped , dropped draglink as well.

New 8 inch springs will come with shims on them but that will mess with your caster a bit , (i took mine off) , but they help driveline angle. Get your square all set up and dive it around without a front shaft until you get it to drive the way you want , (playing with shims) and then get a driveline made.

My blazer wheels hard and sails down the highway at 80mph like a dream
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Appreciate all the information.
 

mavtricks71

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Joined
Jun 29, 2016
Posts
222
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60
Location
az
First Name
mike
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
k10
Engine Size
350
My blazer has 9 inch , all suspension lift , built for street and off road use , so this is what I did.

lowered the t-case 1 inch
custom built driveshafts
front end not rolled up
rear end rolled up (perches)
sway bar removed

Rolling the front up make's your square drive like crap , (mine is flat , no shim) , i used all stock spicer parts , longest slip yoke I could get and had to grind out some spots in the double cardan for downward travel, (you would not need to do that on a street truck), and had to be longer as well.

The rear shaft is just longer , I had to play with different shims to get the angle right , to have no vibrations and no wheel hop. Your t-case angle and pinion angle should be the same with a u-joint shaft , (mine is not but works well) but that is hard to do with big lift so having a double cardan shaft made is the way to go if you dont want to mess with trying to figure out a sweet spot with shims but you may still have to play with it a bit to be perfect, (rolling diff up).

I am not a fan of slip yoke's in the t-case so I have nothing to say on that ,

You will also have to have a steering box brace kit , (big tire's kill frame's)

Crossover steering is the way to go , but if you dont go that route you will need the tallest steering arm you can find and a drop pittman arm as well. Then if your draglink is way off from flat you may need an s shaped , dropped draglink as well.

New 8 inch springs will come with shims on them but that will mess with your caster a bit , (i took mine off) , but they help driveline angle. Get your square all set up and dive it around without a front shaft until you get it to drive the way you want , (playing with shims) and then get a driveline made.

My blazer wheels hard and sails down the highway at 80mph like a dream
You must be registered for see images attach
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I bought Skyjacker springs and they do have a shim on them, Do you think think they will be close in reference to it driving ok? I'm Sick I cant install the lift and switch out parts anymore like I used to.
 

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