Door Jamb switch housing

[Randy and Easton]

Ok, we know this will be way easy for y’all but we are stumped between Lowes and Home Depot.

Got Painless door switch kit. Switches have “nothing” to screw “into” on door frame. What can we use to put into hole with a ridge on back that will allow switch to screw into doorframe? I can see it in my head what it looks like but don’t know what it’s called or where to find it. Kinda like when I was looking for ferrules last week!

All help greatly appreciate as always

Randy and E

 

[WP29P4A]

The easy fix if you want to use the switches you have is to use a fender washer that the switch will fit in and tighten up. You can adjust the hole size with a drill bit, if needed. Then drill two small mounting holes for pop rivets to mount the washer over the existing hole.

 

[75gmck25]

My original door switches are rusty and unreliable, but the new ones I bought have slightly smaller diameter threads and they won’t thread in.

My plan is to buy rivnuts or nutserts (different name for similar products) to make a new threaded hole, but I have not found them in small quantities. I don’t want to buy @50 from Fastenal just to get two.

 

[WP29P4A]

I do believe after playing with nutserts recently, the depth of the nut might be a problem for the switch. Plus the switches are pretty much a sheet metal type thread, where the nutserts are a machine thread that comes in course and fine threads. Just a thought.

 

[Rickf]

What about something like these?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FC22NWK/

 

[Randy and Easton]

@Rickf those might work. All great ideas. @Matt69olds directed me to some aftermarket switches that may work as well. Got a switch and have plans to see how it goes tomorrow, but all great ideas. I have a nut for back of the switch but the connector is to wide to allow it to slide over connection but a C or E clip may work as well..

Kids 1976 C10… the gift that keeps giving..

Randy and Easton

 

[Randy and Easton]

The easy fix if you want to use the switches you have is to use a fender washer that the switch will fit in and tighten up. You can adjust the hole size with a drill bit, if needed. Then drill two small mounting holes for pop rivets to mount the washer over the existing hole.

Going to start on this route, however I just figured out why my original plan to add a washer and nut behind new switch did not fit. After I crimped the new connection I put a small piece of shrink wrap to keep it together so that mad it too wide for but to slide over. Gonna work on both these methods today. I will keep everyone updated. That is for all the great advice and help..

BTW the switch from auto zone was not any wider that what was included in the painless kit. That being said, it did not have the locking device behind the switch either so really not like the s scamazon pic. I was hoping with that retainer backing even if it was small it would have worked.

 

[Randy and Easton]

Went to Painless this morning. One size of switch is all they manufacture so back to square one (no pun). Reworked the ground to pin connection without the shrink wrap and it fit. Drivers door finished. Pax door will not be as easy but we have a plan

Thanks for all the help y’all

Randy and Easton