Done with 700R4

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rpcraft

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Put it in D and drive, that is the way an OD trans is designed. If it isn't shifting properly then the problem may be your builder or their process, as well as whatever they have done to properly adjust the TV valve. Likwise it's worth asking, do you tow a lot with this Trans, and also do you have the cooler hooked up properly? It's worth adding an Auxillary cooler to your system if you tow (and then again even if you do not) but for sure you have to make sure that the radiator is hooked up at a bare minimum.

The TV cable should be setup by checking the pressure settings and if done correctly if you are very light on the pedal it is going to shift up or into OD as soon as the transmission possible, given you are at the right speed and the trans governor allows for it. The TV cable on the transmission should be adjusted so that if done properly it will keep the transmission engaged in the current gear until you hit the governor threshold if you have heavy pressure on the gas pedal, and with more pressure and within the governor threshold will also cause it to kick down. When in OD it will also trigger the lockup.

If you are towing it is recommended you move to non OD gear just because it will overheat the transmission due to not going into lockup and too much slippage (from being heavy on the gas pedal).
 

Cuba

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I've got plenty of info regarding the adjustment of TV valve and cable. The only way to truly know what it's doing is by pulling the pan down & use a buddy. See my pics and notes on this thread: https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/700r4-tv-cable-and-carb.18888/

This is if indeed the TV adjustment is the issue... I hate shoddy rebuilders. This should be something checked by the rebuilder, because this is such an important & crucial factor on the life of the trans and the way it shifts. So I don't want to assume they did it right, but stay away if this wasn't and use the guy in NY I mentioned above or some REPUTABLE rebuilder
 
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rpcraft

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Back in the day they had a pressure line setup you could use and you were supposed to run your gauge inside the truck and monitor it under different loads. to ensure it was set properly. I know a couple of rebuilders that had a trans dyno and would test it there but the key piece always came down to making sure it was setup in the vehicle properly. It's supposed to be dead easy to set the adjustment properly but I've always been a big fan of making sure the installer test and tunes that setup so they can jump on that hand grenade when it comes to the TV cable not being set up right.
 

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I have 3.42 gears and 33's and while it definitely wouldn't tow anything in 4th I leave it in OD all the time anything over 45mph and it cruises and pulls it just fine. Sounds like your TV cable needs adjusted, which is a pain in the ass in my opinion but I got mine set pretty good. If it's off it'll shift too early like you said or if it's off the other way it'll smoke your transmission.

if its adjusted to aggressive it will hold gears longer and have higher pressure, this is better than it being to soft which short shifts the gears, has lower pressure and allows the trans to burn up.
 

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I
if its adjusted to aggressive it will hold gears longer and have higher pressure, this is better than it being to soft which short shifts the gears, has lower pressure and allows the trans to burn up.


I'm no expert to say yes or now but it would stand to reason and I kind of agree with the thought process. I think the only reason they might frown upon it shifting hard is driver comfort and maybe aggressive drivetrain wear (like ujoints and pinion gears).
 

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I'm no expert to say yes or now but it would stand to reason and I kind of agree with the thought process. I think the only reason they might frown upon it shifting hard is driver comfort and maybe aggressive drivetrain wear (like ujoints and pinion gears).

agreed its not ideal but if you start aggressive and work towards correct you wont burn it up like you will risk doing the other way.
 

86suburbanNJ609

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I got the truck back today and the transmission shifts 1-3 fine and at 45 mph I have to let of the throttle and it shifts into od. Is that the lockup converter or something else is up?
 

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I got the truck back today and the transmission shifts 1-3 fine and at 45 mph I have to let of the throttle and it shifts into od. Is that the lockup converter or something else is up?
How's the passing gear from 1 to 2... or 2 to 3? Does it down shift nad hold like it's supposed to? That'll give a little insight to what may be the prob
 

86suburbanNJ609

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To tell you the truth I just got it back tonight and the builder told me to take it easy and bring it back in tomorrow to adjust cable. It did downshift 3-2 when I got on it. Basically he knew what it was doing he just wanted me to fill with fuel and put some miles on it.
 

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To tell you the truth I just got it back tonight and the builder told me to take it easy and bring it back in tomorrow to adjust cable. It did downshift 3-2 when I got on it. Basically he knew what it was doing he just wanted me to fill with fuel and put some miles on it.
I don't understand WHY he would have you drive it without it being adjusted FIRST. I'm sorry but that doesn't make sense to me. Yes there's a break in period with hard parts & let them wear in a little, but allowing it to break in with the sole purpose of changing the fluid again, I can understand. Not this.

I've never heard of such a thing. Honestly
 

86suburbanNJ609

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I just have to get a new adapter and cable this one I have on here now is shady to say the least. What brands should I be looking at it's a edlebrock carb 1406.
 

Cuba

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I just have to get a new adapter and cable this one I have on here now is shady to say the least. What brands should I be looking at it's a edlebrock carb 1406.
I'm quite sure we had a few links on the thread I posted earlier on here. Along with chat about cable angles at the carb.

Been a while since I've had to install one on a carb, as most are throttle body that I deal with. Same concept, and same final adjustment though
 

86suburbanNJ609

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I don't understand WHY he would have you drive it without it being adjusted FIRST. I'm sorry but that doesn't make sense to me. Yes there's a break in period with hard parts & let them wear in a little, but allowing it to break in with the sole purpose of changing the fluid again, I can understand. Not this.

I've never heard of such a thing. Honestly
He told me exactly what it was going to do. I'm kind of stuck with him because of the warrantyright now and I definitely don't got the cash to fork out for a new trans. But I can get myself and new TV setup and go from there..
 

Cuba

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He told me exactly what it was going to do. I'm kind of stuck with him because of the warrantyright now and I definitely don't got the cash to fork out for a new trans. But I can get myself and new TV setup and go from there..
I hear ya. Is he the type to show you the work he's doing... as in this TV adjustment? It doesn't take long, and it's not like you'd be in his way. If hes dropping the pan, which is best, to be 100% sure. Then you can confirm that he knows what he's doing compared to what I shared on that post. If he can express similar, then I'd feel better and in turn you would feel better too. It's not much to it, and going through those couple explained images, it should help enlighten you as to what it should look like.
 

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I got it back tonight and shifted fine in drive but overdrive was different she definitely didn't like it. I to have 373 gears but I'm running 33s on a 6 inch lift and I really think that I shouldn't be driving this thing in overdrive only shift it in when over 55. It doesn't try to find gears but it will shift prematurely if I'm not on the throttle. My question is do you drive yours in drive or overdrive?
Lower gears...
Think of overdrive like 4th gear. You really don't want to lug your engine on the highway, and 700s hate to get lugged. If it's hunting back and forth from 3rd to overdrive, it will create nuclear fission and MELT down.
 

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