Distributor Question

[The flying turd]

I won many beers and even some good money when I used to build motors. After deadstick timing the motor, (what's called when stabbing a dizzy), and pre filled the carb bowl of fuel so when I hit the accelerator pump I was getting a shot of fuel, I'd bet a start up first try on less than 3 full motor revolutions.
Always double checked firing order, had lifters soaked overnight in oil, if hydraulic lifters, valves adjusted just 1 turn past zero lash, mechanicals at 1/4 turn past zero, motor oil primed with a drill motor to the oil pump shaft before stabbing the dizzy. I don't recall that I even lost either. Back then motor oil had plenty of the good stuff in it, so I only did about 2000 rpm for the first 15 minutes. Then I'd bring it down to about 800rpm and start adjusting the hydaulic valves, to no clatter then half turn. Book calls for full turn if running hydraulic lifters, and doing a motor running valve adjustment, but 1/2 turn works fine and puts less strain on the cam lobes, and if it's not quite enough, the hydraulic lifters will compensate, so I never got crazy tight on hydraulic lifters and never had a problem with cam lobes going flat, or floating vavles unless the rpm or the cam and springs was exceeded.. The motor I ran most of the time didn't float valves until 7500 rpm, although I didn't try that very often either. Can't imagine why

Hi Hotrod,
I appreciate the good info, Its been a long time since I have done this so i am a little nervious, I feel good about all my steps, even took a stab a degreeing this cam (1st time ever). I did struggle with that, ended up using the centerline method, I know some say thats not a good method, at least I got the number to match twice. I can see this procedure would be much easier on an engine stand vs being hunched over in that massive engine compartment with the heads on.
I didn't presoak the lifters, adjusted to zero lash, then 1/2 turn, I hope this works out ok. I did mark the #1 cyl location on the dist for easy reference, Did the same for the timing as well, but I forgot that I changed the intake. Jim86 has giving me some good tips on getting past that.
I did buy some cam/engine break in lube. My plan is to get the cam run in properly then change the oil. I will be using a zink additive from here on. Can you recomend something?

Dave

 

[HotRodPC]

You've put the cam lube break in additive in your oil right? As long as the cam lube was put all over the lobes you'll be fine with having to turn it around again.

 

[GOBR]

I smeared alot of lube all over my cam lobes and even ran these cam and lifters in a previous motor then re used em. They werent pitted and had swirl marks on the lifter face so I went for it. They only ran in the previous engine for about 500 miles tho. Long as you lubed it it will be fine. I just used straight 40 weight oil for my break in then changed it after bout 300 miles. They way I set my cap and rotor up is whichever terminal is goin to be number 1 I mark it on the cap and base of the dizzy then take cap back off and point rotor at mark on base. Make sure #1 is at TDC. I always set mine with the driver side valve cover off so I can watch the rocker arms.

 

[Jims86]

I smeared alot of lube all over my cam lobes and even ran these cam and lifters in a previous motor then re used em. They werent pitted and had swirl marks on the lifter face so I went for it. They only ran in the previous engine for about 500 miles tho. Long as you lubed it it will be fine. I just used straight 40 weight oil for my break in then changed it after bout 300 miles. They way I set my cap and rotor up is whichever terminal is goin to be number 1 I mark it on the cap and base of the dizzy then take cap back off and point rotor at mark on base. Make sure #1 is at TDC. I always set mine with the driver side valve cover off so I can watch the rocker arms.

Thats correct also, But the reason I told him to set the mrk at 4 or 8 and then stab the dizzy at #1 is to be able to fire it up, and not worry about having to set timing for the cam break in run. After that, he can fine tune it to whatever he wants to run, whether with the timing light, or vac gauge, or ear....whatever the case may be.

 

[GOBR]

Thats correct also, But the reason I told him to set the mrk at 4 or 8 and then stab the dizzy at #1 is to be able to fire it up, and not worry about having to set timing for the cam break in run. After that, he can fine tune it to whatever he wants to run, whether with the timing light, or vac gauge, or ear....whatever the case may be.

True. I think I might of set mine at TDC then turned the dizzy slightly to where it would fire before then put the cap and stuff on. Either way. Its easy to get it 180 out tho. It seems like Im always 180 out the first fire. Dunno why tho lol

 

[Jims86]

wish I could delete my own posts.

 

[Jims86]

True. I think I might of set mine at TDC then turned the dizzy slightly to where it would fire before then put the cap and stuff on. Either way. Its easy to get it 180 out tho. It seems like Im always 180 out the first fire. Dunno why tho lol

If you let #1 blow your finger out of the plug hole, and you also have your valve cover off to see that both valves are closed, and your timing mark is on the scale, you should never be 180 out....unless you have a buddy that likes to pull jokes on you when you go to take a piss real quick before stabbin the dizzy.Most common I have seen, and done myself on many occasions, is crossing 5and 7, because they are next door neighbors on the engine and the dizzy.

 

[HotRodPC]

You should never be 180 out with that method even if you don't have the valve cover off to verify the valves are closed. You know they're closed or the piston wouldn't be up on a compression stroke.

 

[The flying turd]

Thank you all for the great advice, I've used it all.

I am happy to report the truck is running and no leaks. I ran it 1/2 hour at 2500 to 3000 rpm, didn't let it idle at all.

It does need some fine tuning..

Here is one thing to toss out there.. after I primed the old pump, I installed the dist. It fell into a slot that had the rotor tip pointing to the 630PM position (if you were standing dead center of the front of the truck) I wanted to start the bastard so I made that my number one. It worked, but I would like to have the #1 at the 5PM position to keep the wires nice a tidy.

I was told to keep from idling for any length until its run at higher rpm for about an hour, is this Ok? I can fine tune then go for a freeway spin..

Dave

 

[Jims86]

Thank you all for the great advice, I've used it all.

I am happy to report the truck is running and no leaks. I ran it 1/2 hour at 2500 to 3000 rpm, didn't let it idle at all.

It does need some fine tuning..

Here is one thing to toss out there.. after I primed the old pump, I installed the dist. It fell into a slot that had the rotor tip pointing to the 630PM position (if you were standing dead center of the front of the truck) I wanted to start the bastard so I made that my number one. It worked, but I would like to have the #1 at the 5PM position to keep the wires nice a tidy.

I was told to keep from idling for any length until its run at higher rpm for about an hour, is this Ok? I can fine tune then go for a freeway spin..

Dave

I havent heard that before....I just do the cam break in, which is the usual 30 min, and thats it.
I do know that my instructor in high school used to teach us to rebuild engines, using tighter tollerences...so tight that a regular starter could not crank the engine, and could only be broken in on a stand, with a special pnumatic starter that he made. The idea was to fire the engine, and let it run until the temp gauge just barely started to move, then shut it off, and let it cool back down....repeat the process around 5 or 6 times, or untill a standard starter could do the job. then when it was installed, a long trip(30 miles or so each way) at between 1500 and 2100 rpm, and your ready to rock. Talk about a silky smooth engine....couldnt even feel the engine when using solid mounts.

 

[HotRodPC]

Thank you all for the great advice, I've used it all.

I am happy to report the truck is running and no leaks. I ran it 1/2 hour at 2500 to 3000 rpm, didn't let it idle at all.

It does need some fine tuning..

Here is one thing to toss out there.. after I primed the old pump, I installed the dist. It fell into a slot that had the rotor tip pointing to the 630PM position (if you were standing dead center of the front of the truck) I wanted to start the bastard so I made that my number one. It worked, but I would like to have the #1 at the 5PM position to keep the wires nice a tidy.

I was told to keep from idling for any length until its run at higher rpm for about an hour, is this Ok? I can fine tune then go for a freeway spin..

Dave

You should be good to go now. Maybe someone meant, don't just let it idle for an hour solid. I'm sure you'll be stabbing the throttle while tuning, so don't worry about that. Also on your freeway cruise, don't just set you cruise control and go. Vary your speed (rpms) every 5 or 10 minutes. Maybe go 60 for a few minutes, then go 70 for awhile, then down to 65 etc. Why or what this does, not sure, but your supposed to vary your speed for the first 1000 miles and not use cruise control.

As far as restabbing the dizzy, you'll probably want to drop it in with the rotor at about 3 o' clock, and that should land you about 5 o clock when you bottom out. Don't forget to re index your oil pump shaft.

 

[Tyger13us]

You should be good to go now. Maybe someone meant, don't just let it idle for an hour solid. I'm sure you'll be stabbing the throttle while tuning, so don't worry about that. Also on your freeway cruise, don't just set you cruise control and go. Vary your speed (rpms) every 5 or 10 minutes. Maybe go 60 for a few minutes, then go 70 for awhile, then down to 65 etc. Why or what this does, not sure, but your supposed to vary your speed for the first 1000 miles and not use cruise control.

As far as restabbing the dizzy, you'll probably want to drop it in with the rotor at about 3 o' clock, and that should land you about 5 o clock when you bottom out. Don't forget to re index your oil pump shaft.

X2 on that..

never let it idle for very long at any time till the cam is completely broke in,, the reason being is the squirter holes on the rods that throw oil up in to the cylinders also splash the cam as they go around,, so at an idle the oil aint making it to the cam,, and if ya think the lifter bores are suppose to oil the cam,, wrong,, then the the block is toast........

 

[The flying turd]

I havent heard that before....I just do the cam break in, which is the usual 30 min, and thats it.
I do know that my instructor in high school used to teach us to rebuild engines, using tighter tollerences...so tight that a regular starter could not crank the engine, and could only be broken in on a stand, with a special pnumatic starter that he made. The idea was to fire the engine, and let it run until the temp gauge just barely started to move, then shut it off, and let it cool back down....repeat the process around 5 or 6 times, or untill a standard starter could do the job. then when it was installed, a long trip(30 miles or so each way) at between 1500 and 2100 rpm, and your ready to rock. Talk about a silky smooth engine....couldnt even feel the engine when using solid mounts.

Interesting... did you run that engine at high rpm's? to seat the rings and stuff?

 

[Jims86]

Interesting... did you run that engine at high rpm's? to seat the rings and stuff?

usually 1100rpm, which is usual warm up rpm for most vehicles...as high as 1800

 

[The flying turd]

Cool! I will do just that..
By the way I like your quote "junk in progress" I'm sure its not junk. But I always joke with my GF about the same thing. I bought the flying turd as a haul this and that, go to the dump. It was a mess when I bought it, my Ex would not even ride in it. But over the years, its a 100% always start. It deserves the attention, and slowing becoming a decent ride. this is my first go with chevys.