Dash pictures of ‘77 K5 Blazet w/tach

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legopnuematic

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Or in the case of a Mopar:
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According to the RamCharger FSM's ( 73 thru 80 body style ) only a small portion of current was shunted thru the ammeter. Yet, if disconnected, they would not run ... HMMMM.

Mopar wiring in the old days was never known to be the best !
 

idahovette

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^^^^^^^^^Along with the doors falling off^^^^^^^
 

bucket

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^^^^^^^^^Along with the doors falling off^^^^^^^

Weren't there some in the Iacocca years that essentially had cotter pins as hinge pins?
 

Gander

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This is who I used for the replacement board on the factory tach I used. Completely satisfied and it’s held up just fine. I WILL say, though, that even with him adjusting it prior to shipping it out, when you get it and install it you’ll need to dial it in to get the tach to read right. That’s why it’s so good to have a potentiometer soldered to the board in place of the failed resistor. All I did was the math to figure out what RPM I’d be turning with my tire size and gears at 70mph with the torque converter locked up, and then just dialed it in with a small screwdriver before reassembling everything.
 

Gander

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Just thought I’d share this link. It’s got a LOT of info on here about the factory tachs in squarebody trucks. Not all this info is accurate, though. Specifically, the part where they say that a factory tach won’t work on the TBI trucks. That is absolutely not true and my truck is proof of it.

 

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