Broken shift tube?

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Dleslie212

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I recently finished a complete rebuild of my 77 tilt column. See thread here for pictures


During the reassembly, I had issues with the shift column collapsing on itself whenever I tried to tap it into place. It took me awhile but I finally got it together properly.

My issue now is when trying to shift, it seems like the upper portion of the shift tube is just spinning around the lower portion. For example, I can feel my trans click into reverse, but anything after that it just feels like spinning - I don't feel the trans clicking into gear. If I try to shift down into first, and then take a look at the shift arm in the engine compartment, it's in the same position as when it was in reverse.

Thinking back, I do remember some plastic pieces falling out of the shift tube at one point. I'm thinking those were meant to lock the tubes together so they rotated as one piece. I've resigned myself to having to completely take the column apart again, but once I do, how can I keep those locked so they rotated together again? Does anyone know of a place that sells the replacement shift tubes?
 

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Those plastic pieces are part of the safety mechanism that collapses the column in case of accidents. There is no way that I know of to fix it except to replace the steering column.
 

Dleslie212

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Those plastic pieces are part of the safety mechanism that collapses the column in case of accidents. There is no way that I know of to fix it except to replace the steering column.
I'm thinking of disassembling everything to the point only the shift tube is installed - the steering shaft itself would be removed. Then measure length of the shift tube from inside, remove the shift tube and tap it to the correct length and then a few spots welds around the seam where the two meet? Then reinstall. The welds should help it not collapse again during reinstallation, and also keep them rotating together. Or is my thinking flawed? I don't really care about the collapsability of the column
 

hogdaddy

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I'm thinking of disassembling everything to the point only the shift tube is installed - the steering shaft itself would be removed. Then measure length of the shift tube from inside, remove the shift tube and tap it to the correct length and then a few spots welds around the seam where the two meet? Then reinstall. The welds should help it not collapse again during reinstallation, and also keep them rotating together. Or is my thinking flawed? I don't really care about the collapsability of the column
It no longer meets safety guidelines for crash and is there to protect you. All vehicles since around 1960 something are required to have this feature.
 

Dleslie212

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It no longer meets safety guidelines for crash and is there to protect you.
Assuming I don't care about that - do you think my idea above would work?
 

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I don't know tbh.
 

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I think the spot welds would work, but I would think finding some sort of shearable plastic rivets similar to the original would be safer - just in case.

Maybe the tube from a Bic pen would be the right size, or perhaps the round plastic hanger model parts are attached to would work and you could heat flare them in place.

If they make aluminum roll pins I could see that as a possibility, too.

Just trying to think of jury rig options.

:)
 

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Assuming I don't care about that - do you think my idea above would work?
I think it would work…. I feel bad for you man, that’s a lot of dang work tearing it down that far.

I would consider trying some plastic shims in between the two ends of the tube, maybe even some steel stock or sheet metal the correct thickness would do. Also maybe clean and scuff the surfaces so a little glue or RTV could be used to stick the shims in place good enough for assembly and shifting but break loose in a hard crash.
 

Dleslie212

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I think it would work…. I feel bad for you man, that’s a lot of dang work tearing it down that far.

I would consider trying some plastic shims in between the two ends of the tube, maybe even some steel stock or sheet metal the correct thickness would do. Also maybe clean and scuff the surfaces so a little glue or RTV could be used to stick the shims in place good enough for assembly and shifting but break loose in a hard crash.
I don't know, maybe. I pulled the column again this morning - time to strip it completely down again :(
 

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Dleslie212

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I'm just posting this information in case anyone in the future has the same issue. I couldn't find much when I was googling.

I got the column out and torn down again. On the bright side, I'm getting really freaking good at tearing and building these columns

I tore it down all the way till the point the shift tube was still mounted inside the column and took a measurement of the inside of the shift tube, that way I can make sure I have the length correct during reassembly. From tube end to tube end while assembled, should be around 27-1/2 inches

Here are a few pics of the notches/keyways on the interior portion of the tube, and where they line up with the exterior portion. I think I'm either going to use JB Weld or maybe tack welds. Maybe see if melting some plastic and pouring into there while it's assembled? I'll update once I get it

EDIT - I came back to edit this after I was finished. 27-1/2 inches ended up being a tad bit too short. It did work, but if I were doing this again, I'd probably go around 27-3/4 inches on the length
 

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Last edited:

Dleslie212

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Just a quick addition - there are two of these keyed spots, 180 degrees apart from each other. When reinstalling, there's also a keyed slot on the shift lever housing that matches up to a key on the upper shift tube. It's possible if not paying attention to get that reinstalled 180 off. When reinstalling the two portions of the shift tube, make sure the raised key on the upper shift tube is lined up like a gun sight with the shift linkage arm at the end of the lower tube, and you're good to go

Ask me how I know it's possible to get it 180 off :(
 

Dleslie212

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Raider L

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@Dieslie212,

It's my understanding that these two tubes need to be separate so that the inner tube, which turns in shifting, must not be welded together. The outer tube with the slots in it is exactly that, the outer tube that all the upper parts attach to, i.e. lower column housing, upper column housing. I've had mine apart as well, although it's been a very long time, and yes there are tow soft plastic "shims" inside and yes, they do have to be kept aligned while putting the two tubes together. It's a pain but necessary in order for the "collapse" part to work. I might be wrong but I don't think you'll be able to shift if these two are welded together.
 

CalSgt

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@Dieslie212,

It's my understanding that these two tubes need to be separate so that the inner tube, which turns in shifting, must not be welded together. The outer tube with the slots in it is exactly that, the outer tube that all the upper parts attach to, i.e. lower column housing, upper column housing. I've had mine apart as well, although it's been a very long time, and yes there are tow soft plastic "shims" inside and yes, they do have to be kept aligned while putting the two tubes together. It's a pain but necessary in order for the "collapse" part to work. I might be wrong but I don't think you'll be able to shift if these two are welded together.
It should shift just fine, just won’t collapse in a hard collision. The two piece design is only a safety feature and has little to do with operation
 

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