Bent Frame

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MadOgre

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So hey guys!

Turns out my mint 3/4 ton frame is slightly bent forward of the rear cab cross member.

It appears to be side sway. Where the front bumper horns are pushed side ways. It looks to be about 3/8" to the drivers side.

The frame is bang on from side to side height wise so it only appears to be twisted side to side.

You cant tell with the eye test that's its bent. Its only with a string and tape measure that you can see whats up.

Everything behind the rear cab cross member is nice and square.

There are a couple slightly bent cross members. The very front cross member where the proportioning valve is, looks like it is bent from having a chain or strap pulled from it. And. The transmission cross member is all bent up.

Its funny I didn't notice those 2 cross members when I bought it. Oh well.

So im thinking it rolled over in a V ditch and they had a good time yanking it out. Cause the rear end posi is freshly blown out in it too. And it came with 34" mud tires. Who knows maybe it got T boned ?

The frame is in such good shape rust wise though that im trying to figure out a cheap way to bend it straight.

Both axles are completely 100% parallel and 3/8" of dog track isn't really that bad but my OCD wont have any of it LOL

So Im not sure if 3/8" is factory tolerance or not. I would think its not.

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Ok so how do I fix it with out buggering it up even more ???

I was thinking of tying the back half of the frame down and pulling from the very forward cross member to the passenger side. using my pick ups bumper up against the frame at the cab cross member to keep it from bending behind that spot ???

I was also thinking of pulling all the rivets and laying each rail down on the concrete with wood blocking, and then placing my pickups wheels on top of the straight portion of rail and then using the engine hoist to pull in the appropriate spots ??? Don't know if a 2 ton engine hoist will do it though ?

Also thought of something like that but using a bottle jack instead ?

I dunno ? Any suggestions ?
 
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MadOgre

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I am going to replace all the rivets with grade 8 bolts any way just to make life easier and to be able to remove all traces of rust.

I already have to remove 2 cross members anyways to replace them.

Plus then I can store my disassembled frame in my garden shed LOL
 

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Not sure on how to fix the bent frame but if you use bolts make sure they are tight. I discovered 2 bolts on my front cross member are finger loose!!!!
 

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I get that you're trying to save some cash by doing it yourself, but would a frame shop really charge that much to correct it? I mean, you've made it as easy as possible for them. They wouldn't need to play with body lines or any thing, just make the 2 rails parallel again.
 

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Not sure on how to fix the bent frame but if you use bolts make sure they are tight. I discovered 2 bolts on my front cross member are finger loose!!!!

Ya for sure Im gonna get American bolts and torque them to the bolt specs several times. Not sure what type of locking washer style bolt to use though ?


Then Im gonna paint over all the bolts and frame with several coats of paint.
 

MadOgre

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I get that you're trying to save some cash by doing it yourself, but would a frame shop really charge that much to correct it? I mean, you've made it as easy as possible for them. They wouldn't need to play with body lines or any thing, just make the 2 rails parallel again.

Well I haven't phoned around yet. But I would think they will want the same as they would if it was fully assembled. Maybe Im wrong. That's on my to do list.

But if I can bend it for free that's even better lol
 

MadOgre

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Plus we need a frame section anyways :) @HotRodPC
 

HotRodPC

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Frame would pretty much fall under Exterior, then Paint and Body. It was going to be Paint Frame and Body, but it was to many letters and would make the table of contents to wide.
 

HotRodPC

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Are you sure this frame is bent? It is normal that the frame rails come in closer together just under the cab coming into the engine compartment. It's also normal for the front crossmember with the prop valve to have somewhat of a V to it.
 

HotRodPC

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This is my K10
 

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Are you sure this frame is bent? It is normal that the frame rails come in closer together just under the cab coming into the engine compartment. It's also normal for the front crossmember with the prop valve to have somewhat of a V to it.

Ya the front cross member is for sure bent. Same with the transmission one too.

I have stringed the rails and measured in an X for square it is definitely swayed to the drivers side 3/8".

I was just out looking at it with some buddies and we come to the conclusion that maybe if I replace the bent cross members that maybe the out of square will lessen to 3/16 or 1/4.

I think I read some where that 1/4" is factory tolerance

The thing is there is no where on the frame rails where you can see any creasing or folding of any kind. So maybe its just the bent cross members pulling on things ?

Would you even notice a dog track of 3/16" ?
 

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this is my k10

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HotRodPC

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That was my next suggestion. If the rails aren't twisted, then pop the rivets, put straight known good crossmebers back in, the cab mounts will also help line it up, then the core support, by the time you got all that bolted in, the frame is bound to be so close to right it shouldn't matter being off 1/16 to an 1/8 if it was off even by that much. As long as that's all it is, then it should be able to be compensated with a 4 wheel alignment and not be a dog tracker.
 

MadOgre

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That was my next suggestion. If the rails aren't twisted, then pop the rivets, put straight known good crossmebers back in, the cab mounts will also help line it up, then the core support, by the time you got all that bolted in, the frame are bound to be so close to right it shouldn't matter being off 1/16 to an 1/8 if it was off even by that much. As long as that's all it is, then it should be able to be compensated with a 4 wheel alignment and not be a dog tracker.

That's what Im thinking. I have to take out nearly every cross member any ways to get at the rust under them and replace the bent ones. So I think Im just gonna dismantle the entire frame and I will be able to check each rail with out anything pulling on it. If the rails both measure out right then ill bolt it back together and keep on going.

I figure if half the cross members are bolted in it would look better if they were all bolted in.

You can get various styles of flanged bolts too. If the Allen or Torx head bolts are strong enough they would look good replacing the rivets I think
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These are the right length ones with just a short collar long enough to fill the thickness of the frame hole
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HotRodPC

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I'd just make sure they're hardened, Grade 5 at least, prefer grade 8, and use Loctite RED. The super strong ****.
 

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