Axle + shackle flip

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BowTieJockey

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Ok guys I have searched my head off with this dilemma. Please forgive me if this has been anwered, I'm just not able to find it. I'm looking to do the shackle flip, thats no problem. The thing is the way it shoves the axle forward. I don't mind changing the rear hanger location, as it will already be off anyways, however I don't want to touch the front hanger because I'm aiming for the cleanest look possible.

My thought is after the shackle flip, couldn't I do the 56 in swap and move my axle back, being that the spring pin is offset. But would it hurt to use the spring backwards like that? But if I used the right way and changed the shackle angle to move the axle back wouldn't that be deafeating the purpose of the shackle flip?

Any comments and suggestions are accepted because you guys know things I don't.


I'd rather not use zero rates if possible, but I'm not beyond it.

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bucket

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Running 56's backwards will move the axle back further than stock. If you have stamped spring perches on the axle you can redrill the centerpin holes to move the axle back an inch or so.
 

BowTieJockey

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If you have stamped spring perches on the axle you can redrill the centerpin holes to move the axle back an inch or so.

I have the three hole perches on my axle (there when I got it) but that gives me the same problem the zero rates do. I have to buy top plates and the axle is off on the spring, I'd like to. Avoid that if possible. I can move the rear hanger but it's a short bed with a 92 (yes 92) blazer tank so I don't think I'll be able to move it much.

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marks86

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I might be missing something but I bought a diy4x shackle flip, grinded off the old bracket and installed the shackle flip in the old holes, no moving axle required
 

bucket

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I might be missing something but I bought a diy4x shackle flip, grinded off the old bracket and installed the shackle flip in the old holes, no moving axle required

It works fine, but it does move the axle a little further forward. Probably not very much though if you got the 2.5 kit.

I guess I just don't understand the original dilemma. A "clean install" can include new top plates or some new grade 8 bolts in place of frame rivets.
 

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If you have the 3 hole perches, move the center on to the front hole, you won't get a cleaner install than that.
 

bucket

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If you have the 3 hole perches, move the center on to the front hole, you won't get a cleaner install than that.

He doesn't want to because then the stock u-bolt plates can't be used.
 

BowTieJockey

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Thanks for all of the help and suggestions guys. I am looking for a clean install and can achieve that with zero rates. However I'm trying to keep this as cheep as possible also.

Ill eventually figure something out.

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77 K20

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Thanks for all of the help and suggestions guys. I am looking for a clean install and can achieve that with zero rates. However I'm trying to keep this as cheep as possible also.

Ill eventually figure something out.

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Aren't the zero rates only around $45?
 

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if you use 56s backwards you might get to much pinion angle downward. i left mine forward so i wouldn't have to extend my drive shaft. when i tried flipping my 56s it was to far back. the zero rates are probably the best way.
 

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Cast or stamped stock spring plates? I should probably know this but :shrug:

I don't see any problems with moving the axle forward or backwards with the stamped plates. Just drill a hole for the centering bolt to sit in. I guess the same could be done to the cast plate also. Or just build a new set from plate steel. All it is is a clamp. The axle side is more important than the plate side. The plate just has to be strong enough to handle the loads the u-bolts put on them and little more.

Correct me if I'm thinking of this wrong.
 

Chuck

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You have to drill or grind the centre holes making the plAte weak. I pulled my flip out and went back to blocks and pulled out two packs from each side it seems to ride better


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