Anybody try AT-205 for leaks?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

skysurfer

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2010
Posts
2,704
Reaction score
2,275
Location
west coast
First Name
John
Truck Year
1989 Suburban
Truck Model
V2500
Engine Size
5.7/TH400/NP241C
Has anyone used this, and what were the results? It claims to stop oil leaks by reintroducing plasticizers into oil seals rather than just swelling them with petroleum distillates. I generally don't take shortcuts like this, but I'm dealing with a leaky rear main seal on my wife's '04 Accord. To get to the seal requires removal of either the engine or transmission, and that's beyond my pay grade so to speak. I've called around to a few shops and most don't even want to do the job, while the others are telling me to sell the car or just let it leak. I hate to get rid of it, it's a garaged one-owner in excellent condition with 170k on the clock and new Michelin tires.

So, in researching repairs I see this product mentioned as an alternative with a good success rate. I've never heard of it but wanted to get opinions from the GMSB crew before trying it.

 

Sad Sack

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2024
Posts
2,946
Reaction score
6,081
Location
Nebraska
First Name
Goober
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
C15
Engine Size
305
Hard to find any bad reviews on it.

Scotty Kilmer likes it:
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
35,422
Reaction score
44,726
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
Hard to find any bad reviews on it.

Scotty Kilmer likes it:
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Now, I've never watched any of his videos but, to me, that dude comes across as an opinionated nut job. Yes, I realize that I'm "the pot calling the kettle black" because I just stated an opinion too, lol.
 

dd1990

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2023
Posts
84
Reaction score
130
Location
Oxnard, CA
First Name
David
Truck Year
1990
Truck Model
Suburban 1500
Engine Size
350
Ive used this on a rear main seal leak and it helped but eventually after a few weeks oil started pouring out of the rear main. I believe this product eventually expands seals too much
 

Sad Sack

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2024
Posts
2,946
Reaction score
6,081
Location
Nebraska
First Name
Goober
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
C15
Engine Size
305
ATP products used to be highly regarded, hopefully still are.
 

legopnuematic

Licensed Junk Dealer
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2016
Posts
5,319
Reaction score
20,093
Location
MO
First Name
Spencer
Truck Year
1971, 1̶9̶7̶4, 1976, 1979,1̶9̶8̶5, 2002
Truck Model
Dart Swinger, Sierra 10, C10 Cheyenne, C10 Big Ten, Silverado 10, Ram 2500
Engine Size
225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins

In the early days of his YouTubing his stuff was mostly ok, pretty basic stuff, nothing earth shattering. I haven’t watched for years but pretty much all click bait thumbnails and titles these days. He also passes away at least four times a year.

He has definitely over time gave or endorsed some bad advice, like using compression fittings on a brake system.

But for YouTube, the algorithm doesn’t know if a comment is positive or negative, same for a share, people are probably more likely to interact/comment on something controversial than not. As far as what YouTube sees, a comment is a comment, which is an interaction, which is favorable and will push the content farther to more people.

Basically, being that way and regularly stirring up controversy makes for a more successful ‘YouTube career’ than just being normal. For someone who has established that reputation.
 

Bextreme04

Supporting Member
Supporting Member Army
Joined
May 13, 2019
Posts
4,876
Reaction score
6,656
Location
Oregon
First Name
Eric
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
K25
Engine Size
350-4bbl
Has anyone used this, and what were the results? It claims to stop oil leaks by reintroducing plasticizers into oil seals rather than just swelling them with petroleum distillates. I generally don't take shortcuts like this, but I'm dealing with a leaky rear main seal on my wife's '04 Accord. To get to the seal requires removal of either the engine or transmission, and that's beyond my pay grade so to speak. I've called around to a few shops and most don't even want to do the job, while the others are telling me to sell the car or just let it leak. I hate to get rid of it, it's a garaged one-owner in excellent condition with 170k on the clock and new Michelin tires.

So, in researching repairs I see this product mentioned as an alternative with a good success rate. I've never heard of it but wanted to get opinions from the GMSB crew before trying it.

Is it the v-6 or the inline 4? In my experience, hondas almost never leak from the main seal. It is far more likely to be the oil pan gasket leaking.
 

Bextreme04

Supporting Member
Supporting Member Army
Joined
May 13, 2019
Posts
4,876
Reaction score
6,656
Location
Oregon
First Name
Eric
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
K25
Engine Size
350-4bbl
Also, never use a gasket sealing compound like this. They work by swelling the seal, which is actually just making the rubber loose and soft. It MIGHT close off the leak for a short period of time, but then it will most likely cause the leaking seal to catastrophically fail or other seals that previously weren't leaking will now start leaking shortly.
 

skysurfer

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2010
Posts
2,704
Reaction score
2,275
Location
west coast
First Name
John
Truck Year
1989 Suburban
Truck Model
V2500
Engine Size
5.7/TH400/NP241C
It's the V6. I cleaned the bottom of the engine very well and went for a drive. Oil is coming from the inspection plate area, which has to be the main seal, sealant on the rear plate that holds the seal, or the small o-ring inside the rear plate. Doesn't matter which one it is, the repair still involves spending $2k on a $6k car. I would do the repair if I could find a shop I trust, but none seem willing to tie up a bay for 2-3 days.

I agree with Bextreme, most of the quick fixes cause long-term problems, but this product claims to work differently by not bloating the seals. I just found a comparison test by Project Farm and this product came out as his number one pick.

Hmm. Keep looking for a mechanic? Try this quick fix? Or give Carvana a call.
 

Chevy 88

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2025
Posts
783
Reaction score
792
Location
Canada
First Name
f7t6
Truck Year
1988
Truck Model
GMC
Engine Size
350
I have used AT-205 for years. Its great stuff.
It does not cause rubber to swell, the way other stop leak additives do.
You can easily test this if you want. Just take 2 brand new seals and soak one seal and not the other. No swelling will occur.

I have found that it has a very high success rate.

I have used it to fix rear main leaks and it worked every time. It will not cause more problems.

Seals have a chemical in them that make the rubber soft and flexible. With time, that chemical evaporates and the rubber become hard and no longer able to create a seal. AT-205 is simply replacing that chemical that was lost, and the rubber becomes flexible again so that the seal spring can do its job.

I use it in all of my systems as preventative maintenance. Trans, engine, axles, power steering etc. Just don't use it in the brake system.
 

Attachments

  • b731bf9916021343db20f9bd9d4dd00d.jpg
    b731bf9916021343db20f9bd9d4dd00d.jpg
    131.9 KB · Views: 50

Sad Sack

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2024
Posts
2,946
Reaction score
6,081
Location
Nebraska
First Name
Goober
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
C15
Engine Size
305
I have used AT-205 for years. Its great stuff.
It does not cause rubber to swell, the way other stop leak additives do.
You can easily test this if you want. Just take 2 brand new seals and soak one seal and not the other. No swelling will occur.

I have found that it has a very high success rate.

I have used it to fix rear main leaks and it worked every time. It will not cause more problems.

Seals have a chemical in them that make the rubber soft and flexible. With time, that chemical evaporates and the rubber become hard and no longer able to create a seal. AT-205 is simply replacing that chemical that was lost, and the rubber becomes flexible again so that the seal spring can do its job.

I use it in all of my systems as preventative maintenance. Trans, engine, axles, power steering etc. Just don't use it in the brake system.
Ah crap! I just poured a bottle in my brake reservoir to keep my wheel cylinder boots and caliper piston seals healthy and windshield washer reservoir to keep my pump seals happy. Going to go hide and cry now...brb.
 

Matt69olds

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2018
Posts
2,850
Reaction score
4,712
Location
Central Indiana
First Name
Matt
Truck Year
81
Truck Model
GMC 1/2 ton
Engine Size
455 Olds
I can’t stand Scotty Kilmer!! The fact he endorses something makes me question the product.

Trying to fix a leak with a seal reconditioner is like putting a band aid on a gunshot wound.

If you really want to try it, pour it in following the instructions, drive it a while, if the leak stops, change the fluid. Get the seal conditioner out. The reason I say that, I have taken apart enough transmissions that have had stop leak put in them, all the seals are swollen 3 times the normal size, and spongy. Let the stuff soften the seal, then get it out of there before it does real damage.
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
35,422
Reaction score
44,726
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
It's the V6. I cleaned the bottom of the engine very well and went for a drive. Oil is coming from the inspection plate area, which has to be the main seal, sealant on the rear plate that holds the seal, or the small o-ring inside the rear plate. Doesn't matter which one it is, the repair still involves spending $2k on a $6k car. I would do the repair if I could find a shop I trust, but none seem willing to tie up a bay for 2-3 days.

I agree with Bextreme, most of the quick fixes cause long-term problems, but this product claims to work differently by not bloating the seals. I just found a comparison test by Project Farm and this product came out as his number one pick.

Hmm. Keep looking for a mechanic? Try this quick fix? Or give Carvana a call.

Imho, keep looking for a good mechanic that is willing to work on older stuff. I know how you take care of stuff and I know that Honda is in good shape. It's worth the repair, even if you have to pay someone else to do it.
 

PrairieDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
4,759
Reaction score
8,153
Location
North Dakota
First Name
Mason
Truck Year
84,79,77,76,70,48
Truck Model
Suburban k10, bonanza k10, k30, k20, c10, gmc 1/2ton
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
Imho, keep looking for a good mechanic that is willing to work on older stuff. I know how you take care of stuff and I know that Honda is in good shape. It's worth the repair, even if you have to pay someone else to do

An older car basically no matter the repair, engine/trans, you'll always be money ahead getting it fixed instead of buying a new car and making payments. UNLESS you can pay for a new car in full, but if you can do that you can afford any repair basically.

New cars suck! Wait a few more years and see how much worse the new car situation gets.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
48,666
Posts
1,074,156
Members
43,334
Latest member
Nborden88
Top