Any help is appreciated...

[RCSB73]

Grabbed a new switch (not lock cylinder) and wouldn't you know it...? Fixed... Always just failed to start when they went bad in the past...

I took it apart and contacts were well worn, but slider contact for ignition 1 also had arced at some point to cause divots...

Learn a new symptom for same parts with each vehicle....

Thank you all for your help, hot wire narrowed it down to hot side, and since everything else was new, it had to be the switch or feed wire...

 

[HotRodPC]

Grabbed a new switch (not lock cylinder) and wouldn't you know it...? Fixed... Always just failed to start when they went bad in the past...

I took it apart and contacts were well worn, but slider contact for ignition 1 also had arced at some point to cause divots...

Learn a new symptom for same parts with each vehicle....

Thank you all for your help, hot wire narrowed it down to hot side, and since everything else was new, it had to be the switch or feed wire...

Thanks for coming back with the update and solution. Always nice to know what resolved an issue for other's to find. I'll likely rename the thread so someone else can find it in search.

 

[RCSB73]

Thanks for coming back with the update and solution. Always nice to know what resolved an issue for other's to find. I'll likely rename the thread so someone else can find it in search.

I'm going to be back with other issues I'm sure... This is my 7th square body, but it's been 20yrs since the last one... Part of the reason I feel confident about daily driving this thing is the resources like this forum that weren't available to me in my youth... Please rename thread however you feel it may help another!

 

[Ricko1966]

Don't forget to check your Neutral Safety Switch too. It's raght neer tha ignition switch on the bottom of da column. Two fat purple wires.

It won't cause loss of spark that would cause a no crank condition

 

[shiftpro]

I've felt and looked and wiggled and tugged, but unless a wire is damaged inside the factory loom, I can't find Any damaged or loose wires or been able to cause the issue on demand. That's what has me leaning toward bad connection somewhere in the column, has to be somewhere that I can't jiggle or clean....I have never seen what goes on inside the column as the cam connecting to the ignition lock turns so I can't mentally troubleshoot that area of the process. I'm a locksmith, so it drives me nuts when a mechanical item outsmarts me, my gut reaction is to remove and completely dissemble the column even if that just rules it out... Coming here is an attempt at not over-reacting and completely disassembling the interior before giving someone on the forum the chance to point out something simple... I really do appreciate the responses! I will take a closer look at the bulk head connections before I run the temp hot wire.

Unplug the hot wore for the dizzy and take a look at the terminal inside. Depending on year, it should be female. I was able to slip the plastic cover back and squeeze it tighter. (don't you wish you could tighten up yer woman the same?). The lead up inside the dizzy is male and I sharpened the end of a little file (similar to old school points file) to give a it chisel end. Up it went to scrape off the terminal and my intermittent loss of spark was done. The connection could be tight but with corrosion in there.... drama.