84 C10 Gas Tank Refurb

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Grit dog

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For the anti squeak pads if you don’t want to buy the factory ones (they’re cheap but one of those things may cost you $40 after shipping…)
I used ice and water shield type roll roofing. Just what I had laying around since the real ones I ordered went on hopeless back order.
 

SirRobyn0

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1984
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C20
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305
For the anti squeak pads if you don’t want to buy the factory ones (they’re cheap but one of those things may cost you $40 after shipping…)
I used ice and water shield type roll roofing. Just what I had laying around since the real ones I ordered went on hopeless back order.
You talking for the gas tanks? When I installed my passenger side tank I used... For lack of a better term some rubber mat I had laying around. It was at one time around 20 feet long and maybe 3 or 4 feet wide and ridged. I think it was meant to be attached to like a wood ramp for traction, it's not very thick and I've cut it up and used it for this and that over the years, so cut strips for the tank strips to go around. Has been fine like that. You can see it on the tank in post #7, but I bet the roofing works well.
 

Ronno6

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Ron
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1984
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
355
For the anti squeak pads if you don’t want to buy the factory ones (they’re cheap but one of those things may cost you $40 after shipping…)
I used ice and water shield type roll roofing. Just what I had laying around since the real ones I ordered went on hopeless back order.
Mine are in route from LMC
 

Ken B

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indiana
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ken
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250
heavy roofing underlayment is exactly the same stuff. or bike inner tube cut open....
 

Grit dog

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Yeah really anything suitable that won’t break down from moisture will work.
Anyone near me I have a set of official new anti squeak pieces if you need em.
 

Ronno6

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1984
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355
Passenger side not has a new tank.
Selector valve port size issue sorted out, now time to do the plumbing..........
Tight spaces for my large hands........ gonna scrape a few knuckles.
 

Ronno6

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355
All was going so well, until...........
I had decided to plumb the valve in order to be able to manipulate the hard lines, especially the ones to the front. Those won't move much...
Got the lines connected then tried to mount to the frame... Got 1 bolt in but couldn't get the rear bolt started. So, I decided to disconnect the rear (tank) lines. That's where things went wrong. While trying to remove the 3/8" line from the valve, the barb just snapped off..........grrrr. $$$$$$$ down the drain.
So I re-installed the original valve, which seemed to work since I installed the new switch.
this time I connected the front lines, then mounted the valve..MUCH easier. Plumbed the tank lines, reinstalled the shield and the right side exhaust....DONE!! he driver's side tank should be much easier.......
 

Ronno6

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Driver's side tank is out....sending unit/pickup rusted away at the bottom of the pickup tube,mesh filter.
New 'un ordered.........
 

Ronno6

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Ron
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1984
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C10
Engine Size
355
Two new tanks, old tank selector valve, new selector switch and connecting hoses and it is running again!
Mounting brackets differ from one side to the other..... tank strap holes are different front to back and side to side, and the frame has strap access holes f/r in the passenger side, but only rear on driver's side..... weird.........
 

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