82 c10 swb brakes

[speedy]

After sitting for years I took my c10 for a short spin. I noticed the rear drums locked slightly in the loose rock at the end of my driveway. I didn't notice anything after getting on the pavement or even when I came back.

That same day I removed the bed from my 82. I noticed when I pulled out of my shop and hit the brakes the rear drums locked up quick even on concrete. They released as soon as I let off the pedal.

I know removing the bed takes off a lot of weight and It may be a dumb question, but is this normal?

I have been reading that this may happen if you replaced your master cylinder and crossed the hoses. We did replace the mc about the same time I stopped driving it. If that is the case.
How do I determine which line goes where on the master cylinder?

Regardless I will be changing all the brake pads, hoses, and anything else that needs replaced.

I just installed 20" wheels so Im going to need get the brakes straight before I get back on the road.



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[bucket]

You can consider it normal. Drum brakes can be touchy if they need cleaned and/or are adjusted a little too tight, especially when they aren't heated up (like when first driving off). It's also possible the shoes are contaminated with brake fluid from leaking cylinders or gear lube from leaking wheel seals. It's worth pulling the drums to check things out but there's a very good chance that there's really nothing wrong. And correct, driving without the bed could amplify a very minor issue.

 

[bucket]

Oh, and swapping the lines on the cylinder won't cause an issue. The lines won't swap anyway, they are different sized fittings.

 

[speedy]

I will have to get on it asap. Thanks for the information Andy.

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[highdesertrange]

drum is out of round. highdesertranger

 

[speedy]

Needing some brake help on the front now. After doing my drop spindles I noticed my drivers side caliper was seeping a little fluid around the piston. I did a quick search for a new caliper on rockauto, but there are a lot of options. What do I need to look for when finding the one I need. My rotors are the 1" thick rotor. The casting number on the old one is 18007150 N GM. I can't seem to find anything that cross references that number.

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[MadOgre]

[It's also possible the shoes are contaminated with brake fluid from leaking cylinders or gear lube from leaking wheel seals.]

Brake fluid on your shoes wont cause your brakes to lock up. Just the opposite they will not grab and you will not have any stopping power.

Any parts store should have replacement calipers, there dirt cheap. unless your running aftermarket big brakes.

 

[bucket]

[It's also possible the shoes are contaminated with brake fluid from leaking cylinders or gear lube from leaking wheel seals.]

Brake fluid on your shoes wont cause your brakes to lock up. Just the opposite they will not grab and you will not have any stopping power.

Any parts store should have replacement calipers, there dirt cheap. unless your running aftermarket big brakes.

Sure it can, the contamination will often cause the brakes to grab the first few times you use them, especially on a cool and damp morning. Seen it happen literally hundreds of times on customer vehicles as well as a few of my own.

 

[speedy]

Well now I'm looking into doing a rear disc conversion on my 82 c10. I haven't looked in awhile but I'm pretty sure I have the 10 bolt rear end. Id like to do this conversion for as cheap as possible. I had read somewhere here that you can use rotors and calipers from another vehicle but was unsure if it actually worked out.

Has anyone accomplished this? If so can someone steer me to a parts list.

The main reason I want to do this is for the looks. I installed some 20" wheels and the drums look like dookie behind them. Any info will help me greatly.