81 C10 SWB: Tie rods and adjuster sleeves

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shawn57nomad

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Replacement tie rods and sleeves match original on this 20,000 mile truck, but inners and outers touch inside the sleeves after lowering. (Detroit Speed & Engineering 950# springs, CPP UCA/LCA/modular spindles) I need more adjustments for toe in, as I'm currently unable to mount them to the center link due to length.

Ideas and suggestions are greatly appreciated! Parts list attached in photo.

Thank you all again!
 

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shawn57nomad

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The rod ends are bottoming out on each other in the sleeve?
Thanks for the reply.

The rod ends are bottomed out in the sleeve. The sleeve has 3/8" on either end (3/4" total) before completely out of travel in the length of the sleeve. I could trim the threaded ends of the rods but it still won't be enough a proper alignment.
 

shawn57nomad

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Picture for reference. In the photo the pitman arm is not attached but the tie rod assembly is fully collapsed (ends touching in the sleeve) and will not mount in the center link.

I did order some UMI 2 inch springs and after a discussion with bluex, I ordered some short adjuster sleeves from UMI also.
 

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xm20k

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Running the part numbers for your tie rod ends they come back as basically the same as the Moogs I run, casting marks included just different colored boots. So, they are either a clone, or they are just bulk purchased and re boxed thru Mevotech. I don't get why they would bottom out into each other in the sleeve; lowering does not affect the toe that much. Mine would get really close but probably run out of threads just before they touch.
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Get your pitman and idler fully installed on the drag link that's going to pull everything up into the chassis. Then see where the inners land, I basically have the same setup but with the Willwood spindles instead of the CPP ones and the CPP sleeves with the lock nuts instead of the stock style. They have a good way to go before they bottom out. May have to steer the drag link side to side in my case turn each wheel by hand as mine was on stands to get them on then go from there they may be fine once you get them on may need to back them out once everything is together.
 

shawn57nomad

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Running the part numbers for your tie rod ends they come back as basically the same as the Moogs I run, casting marks included just different colored boots. So, they are either a clone, or they are just bulk purchased and re boxed thru Mevotech. I don't get why they would bottom out into each other in the sleeve; lowering does not affect the toe that much. Mine would get really close but probably run out of threads just before they touch.
You must be registered for see images attach


Get your pitman and idler fully installed on the drag link that's going to pull everything up into the chassis. Then see where the inners land, I basically have the same setup but with the Willwood spindles instead of the CPP ones and the CPP sleeves with the lock nuts instead of the stock style. They have a good way to go before they bottom out. May have to steer the drag link side to side in my case turn each wheel by hand as mine was on stands to get them on then go from there they may be fine once you get them on may need to back them out once everything is together.
Thank you so very much for the explanation. This was in facty scenario. Mevotech parts in a Rock Auto kit complete with pitman and idler arms. Turns out that it was too hot, little sleep, and laying in the gravel at 45 years old (young brain tired body) had me all twisted! It's done now though!

What to do about the steering stop bolts?
 

shawn57nomad

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Man I have to get the frame clean...looks terrible!
 

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vr1967

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I ran into this on my S10 recently. 4 different sets, from 4 different supplies, and they all bottomed out causing toe out.

I took my chop saw and cut 1/4” off each threaded end and now everything fits and adjust as it should. All new ones were app 1/4” longer than, what I believe, were the original tie rod ends.

Not sure if it is sloppy tolerances, or trying to may “one size fits many” to keep down stock.
 

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