79 k30 steering rebuild

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Vbb199

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Rustoleum hammered black... I use that **** on everything, and for whatever reason, It sticks well to surfaces. I have a hard time removing it when applied to surfaces that are prepped well. End up having to use the side grinder to get it off.
 

Lu Blunt

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K30
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350ci
I painted the rotors n billet steer arm and tie rod with high temp flat black engine paint. something I already had sitting around. Worked out great.

I got the rotors n calipers n pads n lines installed and brakes bled. The truck stopped excellent with a firm pedal feel. the next day I drove 150 miles to High country performance 4x4 in Englewood CO. I had scheduled to have the crossover kit, crossover swaybar, steering shaft, psc gear box and the weld on frame strengthening plates installed. I picked the truck up yesterday afternoon and drove the 150 miles home. Before the crossover was installed I could turn the steering wheel with my little finger while stopped. Now even while driving the steering wheel takes excessive effort to turn. before the steering wheel was super smooth and easy to keep center now it feels like steering wheel gets knocked around by the road and you have to correct it all the time. Brake pedal went from firm to spongey and now pulls left when you brake hard. At the first stop for gas I checked the power steering fluid and it didn’t show anything on the stick. I filled it up but no change to steering. not sure if the power steering got bled right. With hydro boost the fluid would effect the brakes too right? I’ll put the truck on jack stands n see how it steers with the front wheels off the ground.

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Lu Blunt

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Even with the front wheels off the ground the steering wheel takes more effort than before to turn. I bled the power steering but that didn’t seem to help. I’ll have to wait till Monday to call hcp4x4. Anybody experience increased steering effort after switching to crossover steering?

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Lu Blunt

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350ci
Could it be alignment? The steering wheel returns to center more aggressively than before. Almost like you’re winding a spring when you turn the steering wheel to lock. when I’m driving the trucks tries to follow the grooves or ruts in the road. I’m constantly correcting the steering to keep the truck straight. It’ll pull to the side and I’ll have to steer in the other direction to go straight. Steering is tight but feels like my steering wheel has lost all power
 
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highdesertrange

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454
first off who ever welded that plate on didn't follow directions at all. I have put on a ton of those from several different manufactures and everyone I have ever done it has stated in the instructions, "DO NOT contentiously weld this bracket on. stitch weld only. in the instruction it even provides a diagram of where to weld and where NOT to weld.

the low power steering fluid will have nothing to do with the truck pulling. they messed something else up.

who's steering shaft is that? How much?

highdesertranger
 

Lu Blunt

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Not sure why they welded the plates like that. I see the instructions from ORD say to DO NOT WELD THE ENTIRE CIRCUMFERENCE so you are correct. Shop was recommended by off road design. I will contact them and see what can be done about the plates. Also figure out why it takes excessive effort to turn the steering wheel

I ordered this shaft
https://www.offroaddesign.com/u-joint-steering-shaft 1.html
 
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Lu Blunt

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ORD said the crossover kit should not increase steering effort. They also said I should be ok with how the plates are welded.

Installer said the truck pulls left when braking because of the push style steering stabilizer. They said the plates were welded so they would never move. As for the increased steering effort they said to drive the truck for a couple days and if it’s not better to call back. I don’t see how driving the truck will fix the steering. the steering wheel feels like you’re winding a spring and the wheel pulls itself straight even when you’re not moving.

I’ve been to local shops that everyone in town says good things about and I can stop by anytime. Didn’t stop the guy from bullshitn me, making me pay upfront and dragging the work out for 8 weeks. Thought maybe I’ll go out of town to a highly recommended 4x4 shop and have the parts installed for a premium. Not sure that was a good idea now
 
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Craig 85

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Hcp4x4 said the truck pulls left when braking because of the push style steering stabilizer.

All the steering stabilizers (dual and single). I've had over the years are hydraulic, which should be a neutral and not push from side to side. I could see a gas type shock causing a push.

Is the tie rod flat now with the cross steer set up? To me it seems if there was any flex in your front springs while braking, the truck would go left if you are holding the steering wheel straight.

If the tie rod has a downward angle to the axle, I would then think the truck would steer right if there is flex in the spring. With cross steering, either way I would think it would be pretty minimal compared to the stock push/pull.
 

Lu Blunt

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I was told “that’s how the truck drives with the parts you have on it.” Also was told “it was bled within reason.” Not sure if the factory pump is not enough to make the new steering happy or if driving for 50 miles low on fluid burned up the current power steering pump.

I ordered the psc pump, external reservoir, anti splash vent, 16” cooler and everything to convert to -6an.

https://www.pscmotorsports.com/psc-pk1405h-or.html
 

Lu Blunt

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Hopefully I can get everything installed this weekend. I have a brand new steering box psc sent me under warranty. if the new pump doesn’t fix the steering effort, I will swap steering boxes.

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Vbb199

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Hopefully I can get everything installed this weekend. I have a brand new steering box psc sent me under warranty. if the new pump doesn’t fix the steering effort, I will swap steering boxes.

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Interested to know what the deal is.
My recent crossover conversion with a dana 60 solid axle swap on my s10 with larger tires still yielded better steering than the factory steer, before I went to hydraulic assist... And all that work, parts, and fabrication was done by me

Of course, when I added a hydraulic ram and modified to pump to flow higher, I can now steer from lock to lock on 39.5-15-16.5 boggers in dirt, truck idling, 1 finger on the inside of the steering wheel.




Edit: let me know how that 435$ does for you, seriously.
Because at some point I wanna move onto that.
 

Lu Blunt

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K30
Engine Size
350ci
Time hasn’t been on my side. Hopefully I can make some more progress today. So far I have the new pump mounted and pullie pressed on. The high pressure line from pump to hydro boost is done. I had the reservoir mounted to the radiator support. But psc/ord recommended it being closer to the pump and preferably mounted to the engine. My sbc is on its way out so i figured just mount to the radiator support for the time being but then I found a ac support bracket and made it work to support the reservoir. I need to mount the cooler and run the return lines then bleed the system.

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Lu Blunt

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Engine Size
350ci
Got the cooler mounted, all the hoses ran and fittings tight. Took my time bleeding the power steering. I have brand new tires on the front. Took it for a test drive this morning. Steering is not any better. Still hard to turn and steering wheel jerks itself back n forth going down the road. If I turn when stopped the steering wheel will turn back the other way when let go of it, kind of like a your winding a spring. I thought I could still feel resistance in the steering when the tires were off the ground but wasn’t sure.

Also when I’m driving the truck feels under powered. when I floor it, it doesn’t feel like it’s floored. Can’t tell if it’s the motor or the gas pedal linkage but I didn’t do anything to the linkage. Not sure if it’s related to the steering.

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Vbb199

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89 Suburban R1500, 79 C10
Engine Size
350, 502
Curious and this may have already been asked.

If you disconnect the draglink that comes from the steering box, is it still difficult to turn the wheel back and forth?

Wondering if that steering box is really tight.

Actually,

There is a rod that runs thru the input shaft on the box.
It's called the torsion bar. As you steer, that torsion bar Twists and changes the position of the valve spool and sleeve, directing fluid under pressure to assist in steering.

It's sort of load reacting too.
The whole wheel ideally doesn't jerk all over the place when you run your tire into a curb.
 
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