5 ac compressors

[Dave M]

Well, if Brother Bill moved to your area, it means he would only have to replace 2 compressors per year !

 

[AuroraGirl]

Well, if Brother Bill moved to your area, it means he would only have to replace 2 compressors per year !

Well it sounds like they died Immediately so I think he would have to replace 10. One set of 5 each day. Boom, problem solved. Good work everyone

 

[CRM]

It is nearly impossible to diagnose the cause with out knowing exactly what failed in the compressor.

 

[idahovette]

Looks like we are NOT gonna find out?.....

It is nearly impossible to diagnose the cause with out knowing exactly what failed in the compressor.

 

[Brother Bill]

Sorry all, didn't mean to post and run. Got jammed up and working long hours.

All hard parts have been replaced, system flushed. Converted to R134. First two models were 58235 and then a third was tried 57235, that one lasted the longest before the clutch failed. Went down tonight to the shop as they fired up the 4th try (thought they were on number 5). It seems the clutch won't stay engaged. I wish I would have thought to video it while there but didn't think of it. The clutch will engage for 10-15 seconds and then disengage. They claim it was same thing for first 3, that it would do that until the clutch overheated and then would leak compressor oil.

I had them turn the truck off tonight before the newest compressor failed. I'll pull the belt off and bring it home until I can come up with some other ideas to try.

 

[Doppleganger]

Only thing similar was a car I worked on 20 yrs ago. Went through 2 compressors in a short time. Wound up being 'parts' from an old orifice tube that disintegrated years ago and parts settled in the evaporator inside the dash.

Wasn't worth the effort to mess with it so I swapped an entire AC box from a donor.

You're either unusually unlucky with defective parts or there is contamination or blockage (from that dreaded stop leak sht) in a line.

 

[AuroraGirl]

could the AC Clutch wiring be bad somehow? I know there is a diode on my cars AC clutch wiring, but I am unsure how it worked way back in the old days.

I would doubly check for contamination or blockage. Somehow my cars AC system kept running with a metric BUTTLOAD of stop leak and extra oil in the system. The **** is still slowly oozing out of my compressor and I took if off the car months ago. I never used any additives when I added refrigerant, just r134a, and i filled it 4 times over 2 years. I can only imagine the lines, drier, etc. I took them off too but didnt bother check for seepage.

On your AC compressor, you mention clutch failure. Is your alternator keeping up with your trucks electrical demands? The old alternators didnt push many amps and an AC clutch can be demanding. Any aftermarket add ons?

 

[Bextreme04]

I'm just going to throw out that the compressor cycling shouldn't burn out the clutch. It seems more likely that there is an issue in the clutch actuation circuit that is allowing it to slip and therefore overheat and burn up. Its possible they are over or under filling the refrigerant also, they should be filling it to about 80% of the R12 charge amount.

Remember that the ground is just as important as the power. Most AC compressor clutches ground through the compressor body, so you need to make sure all the contact points from the compressor to the brackets and engine are clean, as well as making sure the engine to frame and engine to battery grounds are present and clean/tight.

 

[CRM]

Anytime you replace a compressor or clutch, the clearance between the clutch and compressor must be checked. Loose clearance will cause clutch to make noise, slip, and overheat. Tight clearance can cause the clutch to stay mechanically engaged. This will raise pressure too high and may cause the pressure relief valve to open. Most clutches are checked using a feeler gauge. Shims are available in several thicknesses to adjust the clearance.

 

[Dave M]

Do they actually fit the gauges, sounds to me like an issue on the high side, which can cause clutch slippage and comp' failure to the extent that the seals then let go.

 

[bucket]

Do they actually fit the gauges, sounds to me like an issue on the high side, which can cause clutch slippage and comp' failure to the extent that the seals then let go.

Agreed. Sounds like excessive pressure on the high side. That is absolute hell on a compressor and clutch. Likely causes are a blockage in the system or lack of airflow through the condenser due to a failed fan clutch.

A compressor clutch that is simply cycling from low charge or a wiring problem will literally last for years of driving.

 

[Dave M]

Agreed. Sounds like excessive pressure on the high side. That is absolute hell on a compressor and clutch. Likely causes are a blockage in the system or lack of airflow through the condenser due to a failed fan clutch.

A compressor clutch that is simply cycling from low charge or a wiring problem will literally last for years of driving.

Probably has the high side connection down on the liquid line rather than at the discharge port. could have an internal restriction in the condenser.

 

[bucket]

Probably has the high side connection down on the liquid line rather than at the discharge port. could have an internal restriction in the condenser.

Could be. I kind of remember mine being near the discharge port, but I'm not around any of them right now.

 

[Brother Bill]

Thanks all, appreciate the thoughts and insights. I am in no way very knowledgeable on AC systems and functionality.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Thanks all, appreciate the thoughts and insights. I am in no way very knowledgeable on AC systems and functionality.

was your low side port changed to the r134a fitting and is leak free? remember, the cap in a lot of AC fittings also seals the shraeder valve so a missing cap could leak refrigerant. the r134a fitting is larger i do believe