4L60E 700R4 typical rebuild parts list

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jake wells

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my uncle ( moms brother ) has a 94 model C1500 had his rebuilt 7 years ago by them and has worked fine since then and he works construction all the time and he has clocked 90,000 miles on it since.

my friends and family has used there trans and engines and they have never had a problem with any of there stuff. i like jasper and the price is fair to me.
 

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Most stuff I've seen of Jasper does seem to be of good quality but its quite pricey. I forget now, but someone told me their engine builds are not all that thorough. It appeared to me, the one I seen, it was a damn good job. Nothing was untouched. Crank was turned and polished, rods were rezized and fitted with new bolts, etc etc. Lots of builders don't do that ****. They'll just polish a crank and reuse it with new bearings. Many builders just clean and check rods with a Magnaflux. When I build motors, the rods are resised on the big end no matter what, checked for twist, shot peened etc. Cost about $100 for a set of 8 rods plus the new ARP bolts, but the rods are as good or better than new. Its just plain insurnace if you ask me. I've build a stock 2 bolt main 350 that consistantly ran 6200 rpm, and many times to 6500 rpm and never had a problem. I sold the 64 GMC with that motor in it, so who knows how long it lasted, but I drove the hell outta of it for 5 years, and raced with it, towed with it etc. I flat ass abused it and no issues.
 

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I'd want to know the brands on this stuff. You know there are some China made parts for transmissions out there now right? Notice they say Hardened Sunshell, and don't call it a Beast. I have a feeling its all china ****. I know the China Vette Servo's don't work near as good. Just like you can now buy the 5 pinion planets cheap. They are even worse than the 4 pinion OEM planets. To cheap, I'd be careful with all that. Just send an email and ask for a brand name on the Seals and Rubber kit. Also about the sunshell, Servo and .500 boost valve.
 

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oneluckypops

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I'd want to know the brands on this stuff. You know there are some China made parts for transmissions out there now right? Notice they say Hardened Sunshell, and don't call it a Beast. I have a feeling its all china ****. I know the China Vette Servo's don't work near as good. Just like you can now buy the 5 pinion planets cheap. They are even worse than the 4 pinion OEM planets. To cheap, I'd be careful with all that. Just send an email and ask for a brand name on the Seals and Rubber kit. Also about the sunshell, Servo and .500 boost valve.

they do say the kit is a precision, And some of there listings are actually stating the beast. i dont know I sent them an e-mail requesting a quote for a custom kit with the sprags and all
 

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Yeah, I see that. Seems it might be a real deal. Did you see they also have a kit with the Alto Commercial Pak instead of the Z pak for the same price? Also includes all steels. It works out to be about $35 cheaper than the same parts I'd buy and his shipping is less too. Probably save me $50 all total in parts on these parts. Of course, there are other things I buy too to make the trans better. If he has all this in kits, he probably has the other stuff too. I wonder if he has the Sonnax release springs. I want a set of those now. I have most of the kit to rebuild my K case 700r4, but I decided I'm going with those Sonnax springs. I'm also going sleeve the input shaft since I'm likley to put a cam in this motor and be turning 6000 rpm. I think im going to go with Transgo HD2 shift kit in this one instead of the Junior. That will have all the boost valves I'll need.
 

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Yeah, I see that. Seems it might be a real deal. Did you see they also have a kit with the Alto Commercial Pak instead of the Z pak for the same price? Also includes all steels. It works out to be about $35 cheaper than the same parts I'd buy and his shipping is less too. Probably save me $50 all total in parts on these parts. Of course, there are other things I buy too to make the trans better. If he has all this in kits, he probably has the other stuff too. I wonder if he has the Sonnax release springs. I want a set of those now. I have most of the kit to rebuild my K case 700r4, but I decided I'm going with those Sonnax springs. I'm also going sleeve the input shaft since I'm likley to put a cam in this motor and be turning 6000 rpm. I think im going to go with Transgo HD2 shift kit in this one instead of the Junior. That will have all the boost valves I'll need.

yea thats why i emailed him for a COMPLETE kit i will let you know what his price is when i find out hopefully tommorow, I may have just found me a new supplier
 

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What do y'all think of the Sonnax "smart shell" in place of "the beast"? I also found that OEM hardened are CLAIMING even better durability (claimed testing much life after aftermarket shell failures) than "the beast" too according to bulk part.

What do you think of that claim?
 

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What do y'all think of the Sonnax "smart shell" in place of "the beast"? I also found that OEM hardened are CLAIMING even better durability (claimed testing much life after aftermarket shell failures) than "the beast" too according to bulk part.

What do you think of that claim?

After typing up my long respnse to this, walked off before submitting it. Then submitted 2 hours later and it has expired and I lost all that that response. :flipthebird:

But as I was saying about it.... it appears my guess was right. I found this info about it. I'd rock with it at least once and see how it performs. My concern was, by putting in the bearings would that take away from the meat in the area that is prone to fail, that by making it roller, doesn't affect that paticular breaking problem at the teeth that there has to be another purpose for going roller. And it does. Its to correct a rear planet issue. I honeslty did not know the 4L60-E had a common planet issue, which is also why GM must have done the 5 planet thing. As can see, Sonnax answer to the problem wasn't making the planet stronger. Its probably more likely a fix for the issue. The aftermarkets seem to have better and smarter R&D engineers. If Sonnax says it, I'll beleive it, IF GM says it, I'll wait and see.

http://www.sonnax.com/system/announcement/77749-02K.pdf
 

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BTW Christian, if you weren't aware, The Beast is also a Sonnax R&D and made part. So Sonnax own both the Beast name, and the Smart Shell name.
 

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Yeah, I was wondering if the beast was now obsolete because of the smart shell, or if it was simply for heavier duty applications, or something..

Why have both i guess is my question, if you've got a product that answers all the questions, just sell it, not two different ones, unless you have two different issues you are addressing, etc..

This is what is so confusing to a novice like me, so many opinions, so many solutions, and man I wish I'd found those ebay auctions before I bought my kits. Corvette servo, and Beast cost me $80 each on top of the $162 for the master kit with alto steels, and the whole business was well over $400 for me..

Hey, you mentioned in another thread some builders making the mistake of not replacing the bushings throughout the tranny, being that they are cheap, and peace of mind, etc..

I too wanted to replace all the bushings, even though they looked clean, and for $25 for the whole set, I thought yeah! That is, until I saw the price of the bushing driver set, and remover tools, another $500 just for the tools needed, seemed a bit excessive if I don't know how many of these tranny's I am gonna rebuild.

Do you just cut them out with the tailpipe cutter like I've seen, and use sockets to drive the new ones in? Did you buy the whole driver set? How do you ensure the proper depth when driving a seal if you arent using the proper driver? Any advice? I've so far figured out how to avoid buying the special tools (using a bent piece of metal and harmonic balancer remover for a spring compressor, and a couple of 8" C-clamps for the compressor on the 3-4 spring pack) THis has served me well so far, I got the whole thing tore down, and am almost done re assembling it. But, the nagging at me question about the bushings, they all past the finger nail test, and don't look discolored, etc.. But for $20 I would have liked to have replaced them.. What would you do?
 

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Yeah, I was wondering if the beast was now obsolete because of the smart shell, or if it was simply for heavier duty applications, or something..

I wouldn't call the beast obsolete. There is a significant cost difference I'm sure. For a standard build, I'd still use the Beast. For an off road or truck towing frequently, I'd recommend the Smart Shell to potential customers.

Why have both i guess is my question, if you've got a product that answers all the questions, just sell it, not two different ones, unless you have two different issues you are addressing, etc..

This is what is so confusing to a novice like me, so many opinions, so many solutions, and man I wish I'd found those ebay auctions before I bought my kits. Corvette servo, and Beast cost me $80 each on top of the $162 for the master kit with alto steels, and the whole business was well over $400 for me..

We all probably spent to much on our first build. You're prices are not bad though considering you got ALto steels. On a good 700r4 build, its very easy to get over $400 in upgrades. The good thing is, most of the upgrades can be reused again on a rebuild of your rebuild if needed. A beast for example, I'd reuse it. Shfit kits can be reused since they are not moving wearing parts, Sleeved input drum cna be reused etc.

Hey, you mentioned in another thread some builders making the mistake of not replacing the bushings throughout the tranny, being that they are cheap, and peace of mind, etc..

I too wanted to replace all the bushings, even though they looked clean, and for $25 for the whole set, I thought yeah! That is, until I saw the price of the bushing driver set, and remover tools, another $500 just for the tools needed, seemed a bit excessive if I don't know how many of these tranny's I am gonna rebuild.

Some bushings actually do not NEED to be replaced as they rarely see wear. But, I usually buy the complere bushing set sicne by the time you pick and choose the few you need, and the common bushings, you may as well just bought a complete set, then you have leftovers. I do have a cheap small HF busing driver set for bearing races. I use that for the smaller bushings since they are more fragile and easier to damage. Then I do use sockets for the larger ones. I'd love to have a complete bushing driver set that hangs on the wall. You're right, about $500. Trans tools needed can seperate a person from customer or builder. I don't have near the tools I'd like to have. But I imprvise where I can, and slowly gather more and more. I do eventually want all the tools for 700r4 and 4L60-E. A person could survive just building nothing but 700r4 and 4L60-E if he had all the tools, and knew all the good fixes and developed a good reputation. He'd have more work than he could handle and if his price was fair, he do real good. I hope to get there someday.

Do you just cut them out with the tailpipe cutter like I've seen, and use sockets to drive the new ones in? Did you buy the whole driver set? How do you ensure the proper depth when driving a seal if you arent using the proper driver? Any advice? I've so far figured out how to avoid buying the special tools (using a bent piece of metal and harmonic balancer remover for a spring compressor, and a couple of 8" C-clamps for the compressor on the 3-4 spring pack) THis has served me well so far, I got the whole thing tore down, and am almost done re assembling it. But, the nagging at me question about the bushings, they all past the finger nail test, and don't look discolored, etc.. But for $20 I would have liked to have replaced them.. What would you do?

A universal clutch spring compressor is a real good thing to have if you are building more than a couple transmissions. Many times you can use a piece of all thread, some washers and nuts to make your own compressor. Its not the fastest way, but it works.
 

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