Yeah, I was wondering if the beast was now obsolete because of the smart shell, or if it was simply for heavier duty applications, or something..
I wouldn't call the beast obsolete. There is a significant cost difference I'm sure. For a standard build, I'd still use the Beast. For an off road or truck towing frequently, I'd recommend the Smart Shell to potential customers.
Why have both i guess is my question, if you've got a product that answers all the questions, just sell it, not two different ones, unless you have two different issues you are addressing, etc..
This is what is so confusing to a novice like me, so many opinions, so many solutions, and man I wish I'd found those ebay auctions before I bought my kits. Corvette servo, and Beast cost me $80 each on top of the $162 for the master kit with alto steels, and the whole business was well over $400 for me..
We all probably spent to much on our first build. You're prices are not bad though considering you got ALto steels. On a good 700r4 build, its very easy to get over $400 in upgrades. The good thing is, most of the upgrades can be reused again on a rebuild of your rebuild if needed. A beast for example, I'd reuse it. Shfit kits can be reused since they are not moving wearing parts, Sleeved input drum cna be reused etc.
Hey, you mentioned in another thread some builders making the mistake of not replacing the bushings throughout the tranny, being that they are cheap, and peace of mind, etc..
I too wanted to replace all the bushings, even though they looked clean, and for $25 for the whole set, I thought yeah! That is, until I saw the price of the bushing driver set, and remover tools, another $500 just for the tools needed, seemed a bit excessive if I don't know how many of these tranny's I am gonna rebuild.
Some bushings actually do not NEED to be replaced as they rarely see wear. But, I usually buy the complere bushing set sicne by the time you pick and choose the few you need, and the common bushings, you may as well just bought a complete set, then you have leftovers. I do have a cheap small HF busing driver set for bearing races. I use that for the smaller bushings since they are more fragile and easier to damage. Then I do use sockets for the larger ones. I'd love to have a complete bushing driver set that hangs on the wall. You're right, about $500. Trans tools needed can seperate a person from customer or builder. I don't have near the tools I'd like to have. But I imprvise where I can, and slowly gather more and more. I do eventually want all the tools for 700r4 and 4L60-E. A person could survive just building nothing but 700r4 and 4L60-E if he had all the tools, and knew all the good fixes and developed a good reputation. He'd have more work than he could handle and if his price was fair, he do real good. I hope to get there someday.
Do you just cut them out with the tailpipe cutter like I've seen, and use sockets to drive the new ones in? Did you buy the whole driver set? How do you ensure the proper depth when driving a seal if you arent using the proper driver? Any advice? I've so far figured out how to avoid buying the special tools (using a bent piece of metal and harmonic balancer remover for a spring compressor, and a couple of 8" C-clamps for the compressor on the 3-4 spring pack) THis has served me well so far, I got the whole thing tore down, and am almost done re assembling it. But, the nagging at me question about the bushings, they all past the finger nail test, and don't look discolored, etc.. But for $20 I would have liked to have replaced them.. What would you do?