383 build plans

[silverscottsk10]

So I would like to build a 383
Be the first engine I have actually built rather than rebuilt with all stock parts
I know it's a 350 bored .30 over
A 400 crank and either the 400 or 350 rods can be used and one needs the bottom end machined to fit the caps along with the counterweights
Other than that I'm not sure what cam size, pushrod length, spring tension, lifters, pistons, rockers, or oil pump to use
I'm in school so this won't be an overnight project
My truck has seized piston rings in cylinder 7 so I plan to use this as a daily driver engine and occasional highway use for at least 4 hours straight between home and school
If you guys could help me out it'd be awesome
It doesn't need to be over the top by any means
But a roast of tires would be nice instead of 0-60 in 15 minutes

 

[DoubleDingo]

If it were me, I would buy the GM Performance vortec 383 with all new parts for $5,000 and be done with it. You get a zero time engine, literature on proper setup and break in, all you need is to bolt on exhaust, stab the dizzy, and put on pulley's and such, and you are rockin with a fresh strong engine.

I say all that because I was looking to build a 383 with the spare block I have. But after considering the time and money involved with getting the block ready and buying the parts, I was pushing close to $5,000 anyway.

Just something for you to consider.

 

[silverscottsk10]

I would like to build it myself
And there's no way I could afford that anytime soon
And I really don't want any more electrical that distributor
Simplicity is what I like

 

[DoubleDingo]

I understand. However, you would use all of your old components, nothing electronic about it.

This is the engine, just for visual purposes.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12499101?seid=srese1&gclid=CKjk_r2x5b0CFRdsfgoddT8A_A

 

[silverscottsk10]

I'd definitely do it if I had the cash
But if like a project to do in my spare time
I just don't know how to fit the bigger parts together such as the valve train
Sizes and what not

 

[DoubleDingo]

Some of your questions may be answered by looking at the specs of the crate 383. They are located towards the bottom. I have never built a 383, so I don't know anything more than you do about the 400 crank, etc.

 

[silverscottsk10]

I may have to
But I don't know wether or not it would all fit in the block without machining

 

[hirschdalechevy]

Be careful , crate motor's are mass produced and have very little quality control standards , you can do much better going with a bad ass machine shop. That being said , most gm crate motor's do not put out what they say and a dyno sheet is just a piece of paper. I have seen the same motor dyno'ed on different machine's with way different number's. Running a crate motor is like rolling the dice , IMO.

A buddy of mine bought a gm crate motor from summit , (350 h.o. 330 hp , vortec heads) and it ran fine but it was a total pig. Took it back for a refund and we built him a 9.8 to 1 , roller cam 350 with low buget summit aluminum head's with all the same bolt on's , intake , carb , dist. , headers that was on the crate motor and put it in the same truck and it felt like a 200hp difference. It's all about the right parts , machine work , and what you are puting it in and for what you are going to do with it.

Running his truck hard I would say it's a true 330 to 350 hp set up , (never dyno'ed) and it's got some heat and it has the same heat at 6,200 rpm going through the mud , very happy.

I am just saying get a good rotating assembly , clearence the block , shoot for quench , good head's , (important , you have to feed it) and pick a small base circle cam for the right cylinder pressure/rpm range , put your bolt on's on and hang on , you will have a real motor. Or just take a chance on a run of the mill crate motor , maybe you will get an ok one for 5,000

Just my 2 cents , I hate to see people spend money and not be happy and to top it off some people have never been in anything that is fast to begin with so 250 hp might seem fast to them.

Anyway sorry for the long post , but do your leg work and read up on motor's so you can make the right chioce.

 

[silverscottsk10]

I'd much rather build than buy
Why put all the work into a truck to just buy a motor for it?
And a 383 seems to be a good motor for what ill be doing
Daily driving a total of 40 minutes and maybe some mud here and there?
But I need a block so soon as that is In hand I'll be able to start

 

[Driver4r]

try and find a 3970010, they are probly one of the best blocks to build from what ive heard. But dont beleive the whole 010 stading for nickle content disscusion, its just and old wise tale....

 

[silverscottsk10]

I was wondering about the nickel plating deal

 

[Driver4r]

The older blocks are better for building. The only downfall is they arnt setup for roller. But they do make retro-roller setups.

 

[silverscottsk10]

What about heads?

 

[Driver4r]

What about heads?

Vortecs are the best flowing stock heads(062's/906's to be exact).
Now if i was offered 441/882's I wouldnt turn them down.

As far as aftermarket heads go, im not the one to ask, cause i havent delt with them yet.

 

[silverscottsk10]

Do those bolt to pre vortec blocks?
Cuz I know the intake would be changed due to the bolts
But block to head pattern is same or no?