I believe that this is the cam that the boy went with.
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It is base off an old school design that gives it the classic choppy idle and lope that was a calling card of the street warrior from the days of old.
I showed him the old Duntov 30-30 and he liked the numbers and performance it would give.
So he started searching for a roller version of it and this is the one that the interwebs lead him too.
It will start getting assembled in the coming months.
First he has to move his dead 1955 Bel Air to his girlfriends moms house as she has tons of room, where I do not.
I have room for the 55 Bel Air!
You should keep it here, in MT, where it will never see a single day of road of salt!
You can come and visit your Bel Air and drive to Yellowstone on your summer vacation!
Nice cam.
You might have to raise the valve stems and buy new springs if the Vortec heads are not explicitly spaced for the lift.
Some of the 906 or more likely 062 aftermarket heads, suggest cutting to make depth.
However, my machinist, 35 years of Wissota custom head work, warned me, raising to longer stems and taller bee-hives is the way to go. Cutting into the castings makes a thin floor ever worse. A lot of people buy the cutting tools and ruin the heads, without realizing it until it's too late. There's not enough metal from the castings factory, was what he said. (Sad to say it Comp Cams Cuttings tools might be a waste of money).
Especially if you get the urge to add 1.6:1 rockers and extend the range. You'll want the sodium valves to breath and have room for the girdle.
Especially around .480 or more. (Couldn't hurt especially if you save a few hundred not pulling the studs and machining for threaded studs. The girdle tightens everything up for less.)
Studs are important for push rod guides, not as much for a girdle'd Vortec, maxed out to .480+++ .520" with taller valves.
If your specs are tight and you drop a few thousandth's, the Sum-8800 billet is also good as a stage 4, without the machine work and extra tall valve train. (Posted that mostly for anyone watching your build, as an option).
Wanted the Howard's .480" squared.
Perfect computer CHIP REQUIRED camshaft, if you can make it fit without excessive machine work $$$.
Jealous a lil' bit, but in a good way!
It's the suggested red-line lift, of stage 5...
Without new heads...
Suggest using the .018" 99 Vortec EFI HD head gasket (Fel-Pro with the blue lines seal rings around every orifice). Very good quality for the $$.
Extra gasket seals around the water jacket ports is good. It comes with the kit for the EFI 99', and you'll want the steel/rubber Fel-Pro intake gaskets it comes with.
You'll throw away the o-rings for the 99 EFI system or donate them to somebody suffering with a spider injection system.
The cost of the gasket kit is well worth it for the 2 Head/Intake sets, you'll want. (Unless you get weird with gasket height to piston ration for quench).
You'll have to source the Corvette PCV Valve to make vacuum work though.
Stage V camshaft with the standard Vortec PCV MIGHT ruin your engine, from what the expert's say?
"GM Performance ZZ383 engine is recommended to use GM # 6487779 PCV valve, which cross references to Purolator # PV774." -TBI Chips
https://harristuning.com/Tbi/recommended-350-tbi-mods/
Please post the build sequence and if your heads required machining or taller valves?
There's a lot to be learned with actual heads part numbers, who made what and what did not require additional space to make room for that cam.
Many aftermarket Vortec heads are not able to run .480" lift, despite so many threads stating they can.
If you go tall, you can always upgrade the cam! Bigger.
Long as your pistons don't bottom out your valves... LOL
Wanted tall sodium's and could not afford it this build.
My machinist yelled at me to shut up and take what he's offering for the head rebuild, (at the time frame I wanted the heads) and be happy with small stage 4 camshaft. Daminit!
Can't wait to see what you build here.
Good luck!
