1987 Chevrolet V20 front leaf spring replacement

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Grit dog

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See the gap between shock and mount and the sway bar bracket and axle. It will be higher at ride height lol. I’m just hoping since 2.5” lift was smallest springs I could find it doesn’t make my truck higher in front than in the rear lol.
If that pic is with the weight of the truck on the spring, you 100% need a drop steering arm, pittman arm or drag link. Oh and longer shocks.
 

iamtherealJayy

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This is current. I can’t get the axle to lift up enough to meet the sway bar or the shock. Also wheel is turned to right and I can’t by hand turn it back.
 

Grit dog

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Best I’ve got I refuse to get under the truck because trust me it’s sketchy. It won’t fall I’ve got plenty of 6x6 blocks under it but still don’t trust it. I’m lowering the jackstamd right now and the truck isn’t going down much. All I’m hearing it’s lots of creaking. Kinda sketchy. Should I try to lift the axle up to the sway bar bracket? I need to mount the shock and the ubolts and then torque down the bolts for leaf spring after I get it sitting on tires.
So you have the one spring bolted up and weight on the spring/axle?
New springs will generally always sit higher than designed until they break in. Although I wouldn't expect much more sag after you put some miles on them.
 

Grit dog

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This is current. I can’t get the axle to lift up enough to meet the sway bar or the shock. Also wheel is turned to right and I can’t by hand turn it back.
Is your steering locked with the ignition switch off?
Don't worry about shocks now, get the springs installed and everything square before making the other connections. And with your drag link still connected it is throwing everything off a little because it is now too short with the lift springs.
Don't worry about the sway bar now either. Get both springs on so everything is square and then work on the rest of the stuff.
 

iamtherealJayy

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The axle is sitting on a block, I didn’t completely drop the weight of the truck it is still on jacks but I let it down some and it didn’t move much. Yes the passenger side still has a block and factory spring untouched. The steering lock is a good thing to check, I’ll make sure when I go back out I’m trying to eat a quick snack for lunch. Should I continue to drop the truck or should I try and lift the axle? Also, is this something I can center my axle better? Or is it only one position is where it goes? It slightly sticks out passenger side, maybe an inch difference, not sure. It gets annoying the passenger side tire pokes out the fender and the drivers side doesn’t so anytime it rains it looks like I drive with one side on the road and one side in the ditch.
 

iamtherealJayy

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Since I’m redoing the steering after putting some miles on the suspension, should I get a raised steering arm that goes on the knuckle? Or a drop drag link? The drag link would be easier but I assume the steering arm would be better?
 

iamtherealJayy

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Also @Grit dog you say I need longer shocks? I think I just need new shocks… these neither compress nor got longer when I unbolted them..
is the sway bar so far away from the spring for a reason? Can I just tighten the ubolts and pull them together? Should I use another jack and lift the axle?
 

iamtherealJayy

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I tightened the ubolts a little bit until my socket couldn’t reach, I need a ubolt I couldn’t get one nut to thread, anyways, the shock is now connected and is the drag link angle looking a little better lol
 

iamtherealJayy

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Waiting on an angle grinder so I can chop off these u bolts. Can’t get sawzall blades locally and I’m tired of using a hacksaw. I’ve cut enough bolts with a Walmart hacksaw for the day. Lol. Just gotta tighten these ubolts then this side is done. Just can’t get the nut tight too far down for my sockets
 

nvrenuf

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If possible, don't tighten the first side because that sway bar will fight you on the second side.

If you have to tighten the first side and then have trouble with the sway bar, unbolting it from the frame crossmember is easier than the big bolts at the sway bar eyes at the ubolt plates.
 

Grit dog

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Yeah, that looks like considerably better geometry on the drag link
Forgot you were already lifted, I assumed the shock was hanging at full extension in the previous pic.
Yup, you need a grinder with a cutting disc! LOL
I'd even consider removing those u bolts when you get a cutting tool and chopping the threads down a ways, easier out of the truck. Either way, cut them down so you can get a socket on them.
I have no idea how your axle could be off center. Have to start measuring stuff. Unless the spring perches were cut off and moved, maybe the hubs are not the same or??
 

iamtherealJayy

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Passenger side was a breeze, just lifting the truck now to get old spring out lol the bolts came out no problem. Since some of you here are new to me, @Bextreme04 is not, this truck was totaled in around 2004. Cab passenger door and passenger fender are the only original parts everything else was off of a 2wd 87. So still gm sheet meta just not numbers matching. The previous leaf springs got totaled as it was a tbone accident. Lady in a minivan pulled out in front of dad while pulling a trailer he hit van trailer spun around took out both bedsides. As far as I know the axle has been off center since. There is no visible frame damage. I don’t like talking about it much because of possible frame damage. The truck drives straight down the road the front axle is just slightly off centered.
 

iamtherealJayy

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Also neither side of the sway bar bracket is tight on the ubolt I just got it as far as I could with a deep 3/4” socket. They were long before and had 2” blocks so they’re really long now lol I’m trying to find an angle grinder so I don’t have to use the hacksaw anymore
 

iamtherealJayy

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You know I had to speak too soon about the passenger side… the little hole for the alignment pin has something stuck in it… any ideas how to remove it?
 

iamtherealJayy

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Must’ve been the pin from the lift block, must’ve been an aluminum block. Little drilling and a screwdriver and it popped out.
 

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