1980 Scottsdale C30 3 fuel doors but just 1 tank? adding a tank or 2 and in tank fuel pumps

[Hunter79764]

No input on FiTech, just seen mixed reviews like any of them, but an option on the tank/pump situation is to run a TBI pump now, which should be relatively easy to regulate down to 5 psi, then if/when an EFI swap happens, remove the pump itself and replace with the EP or a Walbro or whatever is needed. You may be rebuying the regulator, but you might not need a regulator. You might also be re-buying a pump, but you will get a few years duty out of it and then know what you need at that time.

 

[Grit dog]

so, based on Ricko1966 and grit dogs suggestions to save money I have decided to go a head and hang the 3rd tank in as is condition, and buy an 87 tank and efi sender so on down the road a ways I dont have to sell or god forbid scrap a 2ish year old 1980 tank and sender and just put an extension on the 87 efi/sender pick up tube and put a sock on it and a weight to make sure it stays down, however will C10 fuel tanks and senders work in a C30?

Yes doesn’t matter what series truck the parts are for. C10, c30 etc.
What’s your plan for wiring and valving 3 tanks? No one stop shop premade solutions and off the top of my head no dummy proof setup that you can do (ie something that can’t be switched the “wrong way” by a random driver).
Possibly with 2 ea 2 way pollack valves and 2 GM switches? Or a single 3 pos on on on toggle switch?

 

[Casca2525]

Yes doesn’t matter what series truck the parts are for. C10, c30 etc.
What’s your plan for wiring and valving 3 tanks? No one stop shop premade solutions and off the top of my head no dummy proof setup that you can do (ie something that can’t be switched the “wrong way” by a random driver).
Possibly with 2 ea 2 way pollack valves and 2 GM switches? Or a single 3 pos on on on toggle switch?

kind of leaning towards repairing the stock fuel system then using it as the "truck" fuel system, and the 60 gal tank for aux equipment, I have a gas welder, air compressor, genny, that kind of thing while giving more thought to trying to tie it in idiot proof, or maybe in the end it will just stay aux, and not have to drag around jerry cans. worst case senecio is in the meantime if I run low and have no immediate access to fuel, use a transfer pump to fill the truck system, and not be back in a jiffy idiot.

 

[Grit dog]

You went from a Blazer/Burb 3rd tank to an in bed transfer tank?
I thought you were trying to make use of the 3rd hole, lol!
The more I think about it, an On On On switch could work with some fancy wiring. But moot point if it’s a transfer tank, regardless of size or location.

 

[Ricko1966]

kind of leaning towards repairing the stock fuel system then using it as the "truck" fuel system, and the 60 gal tank for aux equipment, I have a gas welder, air compressor, genny, that kind of thing while giving more thought to trying to tie it in idiot proof, or maybe in the end it will just stay aux, and not have to drag around jerry cans. worst case senecio is in the meantime if I run low and have no immediate access to fuel, use a transfer pump to fill the truck system, and not be back in a jiffy idiot.

Idiot proof emergency back up hook the auxiliary tank to the main tank with a barb at the base of the filler neck. Wire the transfer pump to a momentary contact switch,not a toggle,powered buy a power source from the ignition switch. Now you would have to turn the key then press and hold the button to fill the tank while watching the gauge. Would be a PITA but would make it awfully hard to accidentally overfill the tank.

 

[Casca2525]

Idiot proof emergency back up hook the auxiliary tank to the main tank with a barb at the base of the filler neck. Wire the transfer pump to a momentary contact switch,not a toggle,powered buy a power source from the ignition switch. Now you would have to turn the key then press and hold the button to fill the tank while watching the gauge. Would be a PITA but would make it awfully hard to accidentally overfill the tank.

Micro monetary switch and fused relay! Sounds good, thanks Ricko1966! I got a 26 circuit universal harness so lots unused to pick from

 

[Broken85]

If you wire this correctly, you need two switches and 3 relays. It’s not difficult, there is already trigger wires going to each pollack valve to switch on the correct pump when you switch the valve between tanks.

 

[Casca2525]

No input on FiTech, just seen mixed reviews like any of them, but an option on the tank/pump situation is to run a TBI pump now, which should be relatively easy to regulate down to 5 psi, then if/when an EFI swap happens, remove the pump itself and replace with the EP or a Walbro or whatever is needed. You may be rebuying the regulator, but you might not need a regulator. You might also be re-buying a pump, but you will get a few years duty out of it and then know what you need at that time.

dead end on the fitech anyway, It was a 650cfm, and the sniper 1 I found was a 680 so another wash as prof google says they are to small for a 454 or 440 with torker II's and headers

 

[Ricko1966]

dead end on the fitech anyway, It was a 650cfm, and the sniper 1 I found was a 680 so another wash as prof google says they are to small for a 454 or 440 with torker II's and headers

I'd have to disagree with that. 680 on a single plain,pulling a heavy trailer I'd say 680 is more than enough. Not sure what gears you are running,so not sure why you picked a single plain.

 

[Casca2525]

ok, sorry Ricko1966, that's a typo, Scott has a standard aluminium aftermarket and q jet atm, the cube van project I shelved to start Scott came with the torker II, I'm still lurking the forums and reading posts to try to decide a good manifold for Scott

 

[Casca2525]

I'd have to disagree with that. 680 on a single plain,pulling a heavy trailer I'd say 680 is more than enough. Not sure what gears you are running,so not sure why you picked a single plain.

gearing is currently unk, but with a proper rise and plane manifold, do you feel 650-680cfm is a good range for a 454 tow rig?

 

[Ricko1966]

gearing is currently unk, but with a proper rise and plane manifold, do you feel 650-680cfm is a good range for a 454 tow rig?

Torker 2 is single plane, more for midrange and top end, not low end which is why I asked about gears if you are normally going to be in the 3000 rpm up neighbor hood not a bad choice,if you are going to be down around 2000 or 2500 and trying to pull a load not such a good choice. I think on a big block tow vehicle 680 will be fine. On a single plane it will even act bigger. Not advocating single plane,it wouldn't be what I'd choose but I think 680 on a tow rig on a dual plane will be fine.

 

[Casca2525]

Torker 2 is single plane, more for midrange and top end, not low end which is why I asked about gears if you are normally going to be in the 3000 rpm up neighbor hood not a bad choice,if you are going to be down around 2000 or 2500 and trying to pull a load not such a good choice. I think on a big block tow vehicle 680 will be fine. On a single plane it will even act bigger. Not advocating single plane,it wouldn't be what I'd choose but I think 680 on a tow rig on a dual plane will be fine.

ok, cool, any suggestions on rise? i have read some say a manifold is a low rise or a high rise, any suggestion to narrow my research field?

ideally looking for milage and to start moving out from a stop, not top speed



ty ia

 

[Ricko1966]

ok, cool, any suggestions on rise? i have read some say a manifold is a low rise or a high rise, any suggestion to narrow my research field?

ideally looking for milage and to start moving out from a stop, not top speed



ty ia

A dual plane manifold is better for milage and moving from a stop. More rise gives you more low end so look for a tall dual plane that still leaves room for a good air cleaner and whatever you are going to use for a carbureator or throttle body.By good air cleaner I mean don't run a tall manifold and put a skinny air filter on for clearance.

 

[Casca2525]

A dual plane manifold is better for milage and moving from a stop. More rise gives you more low end so look for a tall dual plane that still leaves room for a good air cleaner and whatever you are going to use for a carbureator or throttle body.By good air cleaner I mean don't run a tall manifold and put a skinny air filter on for clearance.

still have to find one, Scott lost his prior to moving to my place, he is currently wearing Cubit the cube vans stock dual snorkel air cleaner off Cubits 440, donated by a 1975 new yorker brougham