what do these spark plugs indicate about running condition?

they are aranged so the first photo is passenger side bottom, driver top. As if on passenger looking toward driver.

Seems kinda rich-ish

Also, you have a valve cover leak at the front of the motor lol

There’s some carbon activity there. If your spark wasn’t hot enough when it got to the plugs, the stuff you replaced should help that now. That or some carb tuning might be in order, but I wouldn’t be freaking out and running to NAPA if these were my plugs.

Vbb199 said:

Seems kinda rich-ish

Also, you have a valve cover leak at the front of the motor lol

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fixed after plugs put in 2 years ago. Both conditions, ish. New carb stopped the rich to no end, it was BAD. The valve cover got new gaskets

My cap and rotor were well corroded and worn down, so they should help yes. Plug wires were a mess of used, unknown resistances. Niow all nice and new. After some time running truck after this job i thiink ill pulla plug and see how its doing

They told me they can't run without being in the truck, put them back. They love their home.

gotyourgoat said:

They told me they can't run without being in the truck, put them back. They love their home.

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they are a different heat range. dont really know how that effects it, but i put proper ones in now

Also looks like you have oil deposit on some, as well as rich. What kind of carb are you running?

Craig Nedrow said:

Also looks like you have oil deposit on some, as well as rich. What kind of carb are you running?

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1406 edelbrock with idle adjustments done.
but for context, it ran a few hours with the OLD NASTY 2 barrel that made the thing run so rich it burned oil bad, because fuel dilution.
i also learned the timing was extremely retarded for that and all the time i used it during the winter. so that probably didnt help. and incorrect heat range

**** can them and add a Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 system. Plugs will remain looking like new as long as the engine is sound. If not, **** can the engine and replace with an LS.

SquareRoot said:

**** can them and add a Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 system. Plugs will remain looking like new as long as the engine is sound. If not, **** can the engine and replace with an LS.

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Boy, that escalated quickly.

Plugs look rich and oily, better drop $2000 on a fuel injection system or new motor... lol.

With that being said, mine looked kind of like that, and I'm dropping in a fuel injected 454 to fix mine

Bextreme04 said:

Boy, that escalated quickly.

Plugs look rich and oily, better drop $2000 on a fuel injection system or new motor... lol.

With that being said, mine looked kind of like that, and I'm dropping in a fuel injected 454 to fix mine

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i was gonna say, lol.

I am okay with a carburetor for my purpose and location and im okay with a small block, of which i havbe a great many and a lot of parts.

and its already in the truck and dont burn oil lol

AuroraGirl said:

i was gonna say, lol.

I am okay with a carburetor for my purpose and location and im okay with a small block, of which i havbe a great many and a lot of parts.

and its already in the truck and dont burn oil lol

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Yeah, I'm all for only spending money where you need to. Why spend thousands of dollars for a little bit better drive ability on a truck that is rusted through and only used occasionally for work around the farm. I am doing an engine swap and upgrading all kinds of things on my square because it is in great shape and I bought it for that purpose. I also have a 1993 Honda Civic that I use as my daily and commuter. That thing gets the bare minimum maintenance and almost no extras. I bought it for $200 with a blown head gasket, spent another $300 to repair it and put all new gaskets in the motor, and now I'll drive it every day until the wheels fall off. Then put newish wheels on it and keep driving it. It just doesn't make sense to get a new paint job or upgrade things on a vehicle that cheap and only used for that purpose.

These old squares might not be as easy and efficient to operate as they are with a new drivetrain, but they will just keep on chugging like that for a long time with pretty minimal effort and expense.

I've learned from decades of experience when it comes to going down the rabbit hole. You're going to end up in the bottom eventually. It's less frustrating and cheaper not to beat around the bush. Close eyes, hold breath and dive in! Once the pain subsides your at the finish line.

Auroragirl, if you are like me, not made with money. Set initial timing to 8 degrees BTDC (before top dead center) start up and warm engine, hopefully you have a timing light. Depending on the compression, you should be able to run between 32, and 36 degrees advance, all in around 24-3000 rpm. If it is a stock cam, idle around 700 or so, when you shot it off, if it continues to run, (diesel) retard the timing a few degrees. I run a low rpm load, punch it and listen for detonation, and continues advancing until it detonates, then back off a few degrees. This works with the gas you run. I to want a proflow on the new 454 I just installed, but $$$$.