Legopnuematic’s Shop Projects

legopnuematic said:

We might have to agree to disagree on that.

Just to get out of the way, the 17s on cars is not my thing, unless if it has giant disc brakes that need the room or built to handle like it’s on rails. But, not my car, not my money, not of my concern.

However, with this specific car, my grumble grumble comes from the fact it has all these bling parts on it, while having had dangerously bad brakes, roached fuel system, running hot, a non functioning dash, etc. Tons of deficiencies. A lot of money spent on things that don’t matter while ignoring things that do matter.

That’s where I’m coming from on this specific car.

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Could tell by your lengthy descriptions that was the case. Which for someone like yourself who understands vehicles and knows how to keep everything up to snuff, that green car was a giant waste of money for someone putting a lot of lipstick and a good amount of foundation (bondo huggy) into it without addressing any of the mechanical issues.
IE the owner that did that is a typical, “look at me” kind of person who has some money but doesn’t know schitt.

@legopnuematic you literally watched me power wash my red truck and avoid replacing the RF brake hose... and you didn't say NUTHIN' lol.

I've watched a coworker strip out threads like that on slide hammers. It's from not making sure the hook end and adapter is threaded snuggly on the shaft before giving it he!!.

Oh and also, yeah... those red steelies and poverty caps all day.

bucket said:

you literally watched me power wash my red truck and avoid replacing the RF brake hose... and you didn't say NUTHIN' lol.

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That's different. You know it's not right and needs to be dealt with, just choosing to ignore it.

At the risk of sounding hypocritical, when you know the rules you can break the rules some.

Dove into speedometer repair. This plastic bushing is known to pop and then lose its preload and in this case, fell forward, falling out of the bore.

I was able to steal a working temp gauge from another cluster.

And set to repair the speedo.

The bushing was one issue, the return spring was also broken. Not sure if one failure caused the other or if they were unrelated. Removed the tiny taper pin and broken spring end.

Bent a new end on the spring and got things seated and pin reinstalled.

Some epoxy to glue the bushing back into place while being careful to not glue the needle shaft to the bushing. Once set up I cut off the end of the old speedo cable (was all busted up) and chucked into a drill to calibrate it. 1000rpm=60mph, my drill runs 450 and 1700rpm, 27mph and 102, so ran on both speeds making adjustments to the return spring position until it was good enough. Then a drop of super glue to hold the adjustment.

Got most of the dash back together. New brake light switch, horn relay, and speedo cable installed. It goes meep meep now!

Had a member from the woodworking machine forum drop off some stuff I'll be hauling up to Arnfest later this month.

Hope everyone had a good weekend, I worked up at the shop Saturday, Sunday and Monday just hung around the house.

Was driving back from NE MS and swung into dollywood. RIP.

I keep saying I need to get rid of stuff...

A friend of mine in Des Moines put these two Lyon drawer units on marketplace for a good price. I sent him a text saying I'll take them. Each unit is 3x6 drawers. One drawer missing.

I'll be taking delivery in a couple weeks. This might replace the pigeon hole bolt bin I have. Have to see.

Got some 6 gauge copper

Made up a new charge wire to run in parallel with the original (12 gauge!) charge wire. 6 gauge.

And dash all back together. Put a new bulb in the ashtray lamp and it works now too.


Minus sending the alternator out, this should be wrapped up.

The green gift that keeps on giving... I had noticed that the drivers front wheel always looked very negative cambered. This I believe explains that, lower control arm bushing shot. I think this also largely explains why it drives rather sub par.

Passenger side a little better but still needs replacement.

Oh joy lol.

Went and looked at something a little more @idahovette 's speed tonight. 1957 Belair. The current owner bought it non running (and still is), but was a running driving car (with cold a/c) before the previous owner decided to make it an automatic (why I'm not sure). Started taking it apart and cut the harness up and got spooked or forgot what they were doing and stopped and put it for sale. Kind of an odd situation, but whatever. New owner paid up for it, but this appears to be an overall nice car, the paint and body and chrome all are very nice.

My work would be to do whatever is needed to make the electrical right and functional.

The current owner added this fuse block and busbars, he told me he wants it right and whatever that needs to have that happen. Luckily, it appears that the harness in the car is overall in good and serviceable shape, so should be able to clean up everything and mate the old and new.

Some of my favorite scotch locs

I don't believe the chain was OE... I'm curious to see what the underhood harness looks like under the tape, as it has the proper hookup and charge wire setup for that three wire alternator (good on them for not using a 1 wire like everyone else), which of course would not have been on a 57 so who knows. I am thinking its some later harness merged with the old harness. This is some random 350(?), but he does have the numbers 283 with a (not original) 3x2 setup.

Nice.......BUT wrong year(should be a 56) and it's RED!!!!........and it needs to STAY a pedal car(4speed). Also, I have a correct Tri-5 Hurst shifter if anyone needs one?? I should explain.....I don't mind RED cars as long as they are NOT mine!!!

WOW, I'm amazed that bad wiring didn't wind up frying the whole car. Glad to know it's getting fixed right.

I install wiring on local race cars, so I can appreciate electrical done right.

Take Care,
KS in KCK