I know it's not a chevy, but since this forum appreciates older vehicles I thought I'd put the word out anyway. Life BS is forcing me to sell a few of my projects. Price is negotiable.
Can deliver/meet with 75 miles of 92061. Also have space to load a transport truck, to be coordinated by...
I don't know why but it reminds me of a truck I saw in Monterey. Someone took a GMT400 cab and cut off the rear chassis. Took a car hauler trailer and welded it to the cab's remaining chassis. Converted it to front wheel drive. Had a custom "ramp" truck minus the beaver tail.
Since you mentioned bubbling, they make a test probe that looks for exhaust gases in the coolant. Before you drain the coolant maybe try the probe. If you have a head gasket leak the gasses will show up in the coolant.
https://www.harborfreight.com/combustion-leak-detector-64814.html
Probably not a solution to my question, but I'll ask regardless. The connector from the chassis harness into the cluster makes contact with a flimsy PCB as you all know. I'm thinking I'd like to add some real gauges (i have the cluster with just lights) and instead of hack up my harness I'd like...
I can't recall the angles off the top of my head, i battled this battle about 2 years ago. In mine it was about 15-20 mph under acceleration. Samurai's have divorced transfer cases. The thing would dance around like no body's business.
It was really aggravating too. I live about 20 minutes...
The phase/alignment of the shaft is probably the best place to start. However, I had a similar issue in my Samurai. The short wheel base plus the ~8" lift (spring over and taller springs) I could NEVER get the front drive shaft to stop vibrating. Eventually I bit the bullet and order a double...
I'm working on an engine swap in my square and between working on the engine I've put some effort into the lights/electrical. I had an issue where the parking lights would flash when I was running the blinkers in the rear. Turns out the missing ground on the front bulbs was passing current...
Electrical is a bear and can be stupid touchy. Especially in a 40 year old light socket. There are replacement bulb holders you can crimp on to help. I find using a screw driver to adjust the metal tabs helps too. I'm also a huge proponent of putting a dab of dielectric grease into the socket...
I'm assuming you're using incandescent style bulbs for the turn signals. I would start by making sure the bulbs in the 4 corners of the truck are seated correctly and not burned out (parking nor turn). I had an issue, just last weekend, where I upgraded my rears to LEDs and the turn signal...
It's probably not apples to apples, but I ran the 5.3 with the 4l60 in my old sierra and it had 3.42 and 265/70R17 tires. It struggled to maintain 85 on flat land through New Mexico and parts of Texas. At a minimum I would go with 3.73. If you have the slightest inclines I'd go 4.10.
I agree...