Gas in Oil!?

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hack_man

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You mentioned a glass fuel filter- get rid of that pronto. They are famous for cracking and starting engine fires.
I also learned the hard way never use plastic fuel filters, always get the metal can. I drove my truck to the garage for its yearly emission test with gas spurting under the hood as I drove into the shop. I was so lucky it didn't start an engine fire. I replaced it with a metal one in the parking lot and will never use a plastic one again.
 

Tonimus

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What was the engine condition? Higher rpm with higher crankcase pressure and more oil flow, the pump instead of pushing fuel in, was sucking oil out from the same path.
No, it had to be loaded up. 3k rpm in neutral wouldn’t do anything. Engine runs great. Has a properly functioning PCV system too.
 

YakkoWarner

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I also learned the hard way never use plastic fuel filters, always get the metal can. I drove my truck to the garage for its yearly emission test with gas spurting under the hood as I drove into the shop. I was so lucky it didn't start an engine fire. I replaced it with a metal one in the parking lot and will never use a plastic one again.

Can you get just a generic metal can filter with a simple barb on each end? My current British project has the glass filter (and currently only gets run from a boat tank). I want to swap it with a metal filter. Without knowing an "application specific" part number finding just a generic has been tricky.
 

hack_man

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Mine was something like this gas filter, just not the exact same PN
Yes metal generic can with simple barb on each end

The problem with plastic is over time it becomes brittle and cracks as I found out.

That was the second time I brought my truck in for an emission inspection and I was told to get the $H$$!! out of the shop. The first time it was exhausting such a high level of hydrocarbons it stunk up the shop and choked everyone while running the tail pipe sniff test, the second time it was dumping out raw gas from the busted filter.

Evidently my truck doesn't like to be smog tested and feels the need to retaliate :Nonono:

gas filter
 
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Barrett-FL

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Update on Gas in Oil issue:

After draining the oil (and gas in the oil) and the oil filter, I replaced the mechanical fuel pump and the engine starts right up and runs well with no issue...and...after several days it will start right up which was a problem before due to fuel draining back from the fuel filter.

It appears the diaphragm had failed causing the issue.

As Tonimus stated: "This may be a two birds with one stone scenario".

Thank you to all who responded in efforts to assist. I appreciate it and will have more questions as this project continues.
 

Grit dog

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Edelbrock carbs seem to go dry very quickly. Mine does the same as yours- have to crank it to get fuel up to the carb then fires right away.

You mentioned a glass fuel filter- get rid of that pronto. They are famous for cracking and starting engine fires.

Second thing- check your fuel pressure. Edelbrock carbs are famous for not liking more than 5-6 psi and if gets more than that will quickly overwhelm it and spill over fuel.
My experience with Edelbrock carbs is a bit different. I’m not a carb genius nor have brand loyalty but have 2 Eddy carbs on squares coincidentally. 1 is idk probably 15 years old at least. Other is only a few years old. Both trucks start very quick sometimes instantly when cold but driven recently. Both also start reasonably quick after sitting extended periods. The old one just sat for months, started it last week. Only cranked a couple seconds before starting. It does have an electric fuel pump that primes for 3 sec key on though. Newer carb is mech pump.
The one glitch both have equally is when restarting a warm engine before it cools. Say 5min to an hour later, both crank a couple seconds before starting.
 

jhealy748

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I had the diaphram fail on an old apache I had and once the crankcase was full from the gas, it poured out the breather and as I was backing the pickup out it caught on fire. Burnt up the engine bay of the pickup and almost my entire shop. Glad you got it fixed before more damage was caused!
 

Ricko1966

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Thank you for your responses.

I suppose the best thing to do is replace the fuel pump and give it a try.

One thing I’m concerned about is where did the oil leak out from and will the oil leak out again when running.

Also, will replacing the pump stop the fuel from leaking back from the fuel filter?

Thanks again!
The pump has check valves to prevent fuel drain back. But that's irrelevant the needle and seat is in the top of you carb so it can't siphon the bowls dry anyway,the idle air bleeds may be plugged and the idle circuit is siphoning the bowls dry through the idle circuit. So all that fuel is running into the manifold and cylinders when Parked. Which would cause or contribute to your oil been contaminated with fuel. I was in a big hurry earlier,didn't read your entire post. Sounds like your fuel pump ruptured and us filling the crankcase with gas,once overfull and thin on viscosity oil can be coming fron to s of places. Do you have factory valve covers,a pcv valve and either a vent tube or a breather in the opposite side valve cover?
 
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Broken85

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I had the same issue with my jasper 350sbc and an edelbrock 650 before I replaced the motor with a Blueprint EFI. One week sitting and it would take a lot of effort to get it started. I am curious if anyone ever tried to resolve this with a check valve on the fuel line????

Probably a lot cheaper fix than a new Blueprint engine swap………..
 

Ricko1966

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I had the same issue with my jasper 350sbc and an edelbrock 650 before I replaced the motor with a Blueprint EFI. One week sitting and it would take a lot of effort to get it started. I am curious if anyone ever tried to resolve this with a check valve on the fuel line????

Probably a lot cheaper fix than a new Blueprint engine swap………..
It's a check valve in the fuel line issue. The edelbrock carbureator needle and seat is on the top of the carb fuel spill in from above to fill the bowls. Even if it did start to syphon,which could be possible to syphon through the return line on a 3 line pump. It shouldn't be possible to syphon with a 2 port pump unless the pump itself were starting to fail. The pump has 2 check valves in it. Now even if a syphon started it would stop as soon as the bowl level dropped Lower the the seat because then the needle and seat would be above fuel level. Like trying to syphon gas with your hose above the fuel level. The idle orifice is the lowest port and it draws fuel from the bottom of the bowl. There is an idle air bleed that should prevent the siphoning. But if the idle air bleed has dirt in it the idle circuit can syphon until the bowl is dry,because it draws fuel from the bottom of the bowl,and the outlet is lower than the bowl.
 

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