steering box adjustment

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dieselade

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how do i know when there is no more adjustment with the allen screw and lock nut.
 

Redfish

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When you have tightened it too much the steering wheel will no longer return to center on its own. You will have to turn the wheel back to center every time while a properly adjusted steering box will allow the steering wheel to come back to center/straight as soon as you are moving.
 

75gmck25

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With an old steering box it can be difficult to take out all the play and at the same time keep it loose enough to prevent binding.. Simplest process is to tighten it a 1/4 turn (or less) each time and then drive the truck and check it to make sure it returns to center on its own.
 

TotalyHucked

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I've always been taught you don't touch that. That's for setting up the box preload when new, not for tightening up a worn out box. My dad and a few of his friends worked on these when they were new/just a few years old and they all preach the same thing. If your box has slop in it, rebuild or replace. Do not "tighten" the box. It can bind on you at any time if you get it wrong, it's not worth the risk.
 

nvrenuf

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I've never read about anyone making adjustments that helped long term. Most stories of adjustment say it got tighter short term, then the box takes a turn for the worse and needs to be replaced presumably from being overtightened and killing itself from the inside out.
 

Steppin Razor

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That adjustment moves the pitman arm up and down. To get rid of slack, there is a spanner nut on the gearbox where the input shaft is. Loosen that and adjust it there.
 

75gmck25

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The GM manual says to adjust the gearbox slack first and then the small free play adjuster on top. The catch is that the gearbox is adjusted before you mount it in the truck, and the free play is adjusted with the tie rods disconnected, using a spring scale to measure the tightness.

Bottom line - very few folks take time to do it properly, so the compromise is to tighten it up about a 1/4 turn at a time and see how it works.
 

rusted nuts

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A 20 year old use steering gearbox Can not be adj. very well cause most of the wear is on the teeth that are used going down a straight road with little wear when turning left or right. what I'm trying to say is most all the wear is only on a small part of the gear.
 
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Ricko1966

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That adjustment moves the pitman arm up and down. To get rid of slack, there is a spanner nut on the gearbox where the input shaft is. Loosen that and adjust it there.
Stepping Razor was right,but not complete.
You are supposed to adjust both, just like doing a diff,you adjust the big nut on the end first for proper end clearance then adjust the Allen for depth. But you aren't supposed to adjust them after there is wear that's for setting them up on rebuild. If it's sloppy something is worn,not out of adjustment and as others have said it will damage the box further,probably to the point of not being rebuildable. There is probably an egg shaped bushing adjusting it will put pressure and will wear through the bushing then your wear will be on the shaft and the housing.
 

squaredeal91

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@75gmck25 ) Spring scale like these? For example. Depending upon what weight was spec.
 

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75gmck25

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That is the type of spring scale you use, and from what I recall you use it to measure the turning resistance of the box arm.
 

75gmck25

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On a related topic, has anyone found a reliable new replacement brand steering box? I’ve seen complaints here about a new Borgesen box loosening up and being just as bad as the original box. I would be willing to consider a brand new box if it would properly tighten up my steering.

From looking at box rebuild kits online, they seem to be mostly seals and other small parts, so I don’t see how they do much more than seal any leaks. If the wear is on the internal teeth and you don’t replace them, I don’t see how a rebuild will help tighten up the steering.
 

Rusty Nail

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Dude I have been very happy with the LARES brand box I put in the 88 Blazer because it is Tha Shizznit.
Factory steering ratio is 7.8/1
A (1988) Z-28 box is 12.5/1
A LARES box is 16/1 and it bolts on.
Bout twice the price of a parts store rebuilt = Choose wisely.


Hope this helps!
 

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