Front axle off set to passenger side

[Bextreme04]

I did a mixture.. tap to get started then grabbed it with pliers. How can I tell if the bearing is bad? They’re both dirty(not greasy but gritty) I’ve wiped a lot of grease off but should they buy tight? Or have some wiggle to them

They will be loose, they aren't meant to tighten up until they are sandwiched into the races. Basically you need to look for obvious damage like discoloration, gouges, chipping, etc... on both the bearings and the races. Any visible damage means throw them in the trash. Metal discoloration will mean that they got WAY too hot and likely have the heat treatment trashed on them and will go bad very fast.

Clean the heck out of them, I tend to spray with brake cleaner and wipe clean. Then visually inspect for obvious damage. Then repack and reinstall everything.

 

[Bextreme04]

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And the rotor doesn’t look too bad :/ the truck sat for six years before I got it lol

Those look fine unless they are gouged or chipped/knicked. Totally normal slack in the bearing. They will often feel "crunchy" when you spin them if they are bad also.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Races look smooth as crown, bearings look good grease looks black and half non existent. Will repack and reassemble.

 

[Bextreme04]

Races look smooth as crown, bearings look good grease looks black and half non existent. Will repack and reassemble.

Clean, clean, clean... black and non-existent can be from fine grit and worn metal. Get it as clean as possible and put fresh clean grease in and you'll be good for years to come

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I cleaned all I could packed them cleaned them and repacked. They’re not as bright red as I want but it’s not black grease anymore. What’s torque? 50? Loosen 35? Loosen 30? All while spinning hub?

 

[Bextreme04]

I cleaned all I could packed them cleaned them and repacked. They’re not as bright red as I want but it’s not black grease anymore. What’s torque? 50? Loosen 35? Loosen 30? All while spinning hub?

Torque to 50 ft-lbs while turning the hub(this seats the bearings)
Back off 1/4 turn
Torque to 35 ft-lbs while rotating hub
Back off 1/8 turn
Place lockwasher over pin and with tab in notch of spindle(you should have an inner nut with a pin, lockwasher with a tab and holes in it, and a smooth outer nut)
Torque outer nut to 120+ ft-lbs

 

[Grit dog]

In leu of using a screwdriver or pry bar, you can also buy the correct tool. I bought one a while back and it makes it much easier. They are only $8 at harbor freight and a bit more at most parts stores. https://www.harborfreight.com/seal-...s_XFTG9bdG9ByLtIMT7AgqQh5LEDS1LoaAj93EALw_wcB

Holy chit, would ya look at that! Been replacing bearings and seals since 1988 and have yet to not just mangle up and replace every seal….thought it was the cost of doing business…lol.

 

[Grit dog]

Nother vote, those bearings looked fine as long as the dark spots was grease and not discoloration.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Well shoot, I gotta take it back apart, I did the same procedure for outer nut as I did for inner nut… I did 50ft lbs loosen 35, while spinning jt since I couldn’t spin while tightening I spun it afyer then loosen tighten spin so on. Well good news I got drivers side back together… gotta take it back apart apparently.. and it’s about to start raining so I have to hold off anyways, usually how it goes ffs. I polished my wheels while I had them off

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Any recommendations for polishing? Mother’s and a wool disc on a drill is what I usually use.

 

[Bextreme04]

Well shoot, I gotta take it back apart, I did the same procedure for outer nut as I did for inner nut… I did 50ft lbs loosen 35, while spinning jt since I couldn’t spin while tightening I spun it afyer then loosen tighten spin so on. Well good news I got drivers side back together… gotta take it back apart apparently.. and it’s about to start raining so I have to hold off anyways, usually how it goes ffs. I polished my wheels while I had them off

You must be registered for see images attach

Any recommendations for polishing? Mother’s and a wool disc on a drill is what I usually use.

If you quote or mention someone in your posts I will reply faster. I often don't see new posts, but they will show an alert if someone likes or mentions one of my posts or me.

Make sure you don't get the inner and out nuts confused. Make sure the pin is facing out on the inner nut and do the proper sequence to tighten the inner nut and then install the locknut. Once that is done, the bearings are preloaded and set and nothing you do to the outer nut should affect that. The outer nut then gets torqued to 120ft-lbs so that it stays tight no matter what and holds that locknut tight against the inner nut. That way you have a little bit of end play for everything to snug up once you are rolling and the bearings heat up and expand. If you leave the outer nut loose, it will eventually back off enough for the lockplate to back off the inner nut and allow it to come loose.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I have the nuts in right area, I did get the pin to go through washer and the flat piece on the washer to slide in the groove, I’ll get back to it whenever the weather clears up again I reckon. Was really hoping to get it done in an afternoon.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Before I get back to work later I do need to know if there’s a better way to remove the outer ring from the hub so I can slide the locker out, it’s way different on this truck than on the k10, I’d say there’s maybe a quarter inch of room around the circumference. It’s not a snap ring that you have to pull open but more of a ring that you have to compress but there’s no ends on it so I can’t just get some snap ring pliers or anything. My method yesterday involved two screw drivers and needle nose pliers and lift it out of the groove and hold it then run the other screw driver around the edge as the other screw driver was pulling the ring out. I know there has to be a better method. Getting that ring out was honestly worse than playing in grease…

 

[AuroraGirl]

Before I get back to work later I do need to know if there’s a better way to remove the outer ring from the hub so I can slide the locker out, it’s way different on this truck than on the k10, I’d say there’s maybe a quarter inch of room around the circumference. It’s not a snap ring that you have to pull open but more of a ring that you have to compress but there’s no ends on it so I can’t just get some snap ring pliers or anything. My method yesterday involved two screw drivers and needle nose pliers and lift it out of the groove and hold it then run the other screw driver around the edge as the other screw driver was pulling the ring out. I know there has to be a better method. Getting that ring out was honestly worse than playing in grease…

they used those on throttle body screens in 3800. I used a a pic to get behind the ring and a small pocket screw driver work around it like opening a paint can almost. Are you sure it doesnt have holes

are your hubs warn?

 

[AuroraGirl]

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[iamtherealJayy]

There’s no ends on it, in my opinion it just looks like a coil spring but just one loop of it and straight. When I got it out it became large enough to fit over the hub, I don’t know what the hubs are I didn’t see any visible marking on the outside there were numbers on the hub on the inside tho, they did go back together easier than the hubs on the k10 lol I couldn’t get the protrusions to line up on the k10 for the locking handle. Where as on this truck the handle twists almost a full circle from free to lock and pushes a plate down that pushes a gear to grab the spindle and the hub, I didn’t like how the gear had one screw to hold it in, the side with the screw stays in but the other side sticks out from the force of the spring behind it so when you have the cover off that gear is sitting at an angle and touches the spindle snap ring, yea fun times hearing clicking when I spun the rotor.. pushed that gear back where it should be and boom sounded good! Although I still gotta take it back apart again ffs