Could two power steering pumps be mounted to driver side?

[AuroraGirl]

I see kits to mount saginaw up high, down low, and then the stock on mine which is center.

Could someone buy a remote-reservoir meant for certain applications and use it to power a hydraulic accessory? I learned from you guys in a post in the past that using PS pump as-is to power a plow cylinder would likely mean you steer OR you lift, probably cant do both, and the PS pump has too litle capacity. I have a custom reservoir intended for this purpose, just dont have a pump to power the setup. These remote reservoir pumps.. did any come for small blocks, or maybe hydroboost?
Did they use the same mounting hardware as a normal saginaw?

Otherwise, i have a 60s mopar pump without a reservoir that I would probably need custom brackets for.. any thoguhts on that Haha?

And off chance, anyone know of a PS clutch? Or perhaps the size of pulley shaft and maybe i could find a clutch that would fit? Googling yielded little, but i could be looking in the wrong spaces.

 

[Nonstop]

Physically you can, but it might be better to either get a pump specifically designed for that kind of set up or run an independent hydraulic pump controlled by an electric clutch for the plow. I could see problems occurring with a power steering pump riding against it’s pressure relief spring most of the time since it is not being used like a regular power steering pump (although I could be wrong).

 

[AuroraGirl]

Physically you can, but it might be better to either get a pump specifically designed for that kind of set up or run an independent hydraulic pump controlled by an electric clutch for the plow. I could see problems occurring with a power steering pump riding against it’s pressure relief spring most of the time since it is not being used like a regular power steering pump (although I could be wrong).

Yeah I was thinking about that. Clutch wise. Its hard to find these setups, they arent common anymore. I really like the idea and it would be best for me, because even a good alternator is still asking a lot on electrical system for the electric pump. esp. with low usage.

 

[Grit dog]

Not sure what your end goal is here. Existing plow pump doesn't work, want to switch to full hydro just because you can, or some totally unrelated reason or simply out of curiosity?

Either way, between personal and fleet trucks, been around, used and repaired a dozen or more plow trucks. Many including my own were old GM pickups with whatever battery and alternator they had in them in the 80's/90's. I recall no specific issues with the electrical systems on trucks mostly with Western electric pump setups and a couple of myers pumps. All 4 way setups all used for contract or commercial work. Sure I replaced some batteries and alternators over the course of 5-6 years, but the trucks were mostly all old and were all used hard all year except mud season.
You can build anything you want. Had one old Ramcharger with a belt driven hydro pump. Idk what it was.
But, good battery, good alternator, good wiring and if you literally are not using the truck except to fire it up and plow the driveway, throw a battery maintainer on it.
KISS principle.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Well I just kinda thought if I could make a setup work with stuff I already have or not needing many things.. I could do something I like, learn something, and enjoy a hydraulic setup independent of my electrical system..

Im sorry :/

 

[Galane]

A google for
power steering pump for hydraulic plow pump
turns up some interesting results. Looks like it can be done, with the right valves and other equipment. If you have a metal lathe or have access to one it should be possible to adapt an air conditioner magnetic clutch to the pump so it's only running when you need to move things.

With single acting cylinders for lift and left/right angle it would open the valve and engage the pump to lift then close it and disengage the pump when at the desired height. Operating the control for down would open the valve with the pump disengaged and the backflow routed to the reservoir.

To angle left, open both angle cylinder valves then use a double two way toggle valve to feed fluid to the side you want to push forward while the other flows freely back to the reservoir. One half of the valve controls fluid to the cylinders, the other controls the back flow.

Double acting cylinders need more hose and pipe, but you can get by with two cylinders and can do things like forcing the blade down to scrape harder at tough ice.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I use a single up down

 

[AuroraGirl]

PH SERIES CLUTCH PUMPS by Muncie
Muncie makes a clutch pump that mounts under a factory alternator(not able to be mounted with a AC compressor, in that same place/ish, that is multi use.
https://www.munciepower.com/cms/fil.../Documents/Clutch_Pump/CMKC693540AAC_0194.pdf
there is a instructions on it. looks like a nice unit, I might go that route for easy/parts/ and i would be able to mount any valve i want and etc, should be okay. Just need to power a piston up and down, not even power down just relief!

 

[Turbo4whl]

@Galane is right, a power steering pump could work. You would not have, to have a clutch on the pump. You would need an open center control valve with a relief valve in it, or added to the circuit.

With and extra capacity reservoir you would be able to use one pump for the steering and the lift cylinder both.

The lift control valve would be the key part. Needs to be open center with power beyond. You would only loose steering assist when you lift the plow. Otherwise two pumps.


Some pressure info:

https://itstillruns.com/average-psi-cars-power-steering-pump-12287453.html

 

[AuroraGirl]

@Galane is right, a power steering pump could work. You would not have, to have a clutch on the pump. You would need an open center control valve with a relief valve in it, or added to the circuit.

With and extra capacity reservoir you would be able to use one pump for the steering and the lift cylinder both.

The lift control valve would be the key part. Needs to be open center with power beyond. You would only loose steering assist when you lift the plow. Otherwise two pumps.


Some pressure info:

https://itstillruns.com/average-psi-cars-power-steering-pump-12287453.html

So what Im thinking before seeing the Muncie option, maybe high-mount my PS pump and LOW mount a type II ps pump, run it to an external reservoir(which I already have one for my truck... custom made. even takes saginaw cap lol. Then run from there to a control valve which I am hoping to make it remotely operated. SoI dont have a damn pushrod going through my dash and a poorly wired push button switch. but thats QOL more than necessity.

But I guess, like mentioned before wouldnt their be an issue with turning a pump relieving pressure 99% of the time? Thats the only reason I looked at clutch pumps or options. I guess its the only reason i can think of to not use a PS pump.

from my research, a 3 way(1 neutral, 1 actuate, 1 closed) normally closed valve would be needed, because the pump is always turning, always making pressure, but i dont want it always lifting a cylinder, yes?

 

[Turbo4whl]

But I guess, like mentioned before wouldnt their be an issue with turning a pump relieving pressure 99% of the time? Thats the only reason I looked at clutch pumps or options. I guess its the only reason i can think of to not use a PS pump.

from my research, a 3 way(1 neutral, 1 actuate, 1 closed) normally closed valve would be needed, because the pump is always turning, always making pressure, but i dont want it always lifting a cylinder, yes?

Simple physics laws: Pressure is created with resistance to flow. Normal P/S pump is moving oil, but the valve in the steering box lets the oil return to the reservoir. (open center)
When you move the steering wheel, this moves the valve in the box so the oil is not returning to the reservior. Now the oil flow has resistance to move the piston and pressure increases.

This is why you want an open center valve for your plow lift. The pump will not be making a lot of pressure until you trigger the valve (lever or electric solenoid). Then the oil will divert to the plow cylinder.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Simple physics laws: Pressure is created with resistance to flow. Normal P/S pump is moving oil, but the valve in the steering box lets the oil return to the reservoir. (open center)
When you move the steering wheel, this moves the valve in the box so the oil is not returning to the reservior. Now the oil flow has resistance to move the piston and pressure increases.

This is why you want an open center valve for your plow lift. The pump will not be making a lot of pressure until you trigger the valve (lever or electric solenoid). Then the oil will divert to the plow cylinder.

So would it have any issues riding against the relief inside the pump unused? If I go this route, I will likely keep a tool set in the truck specifically for the belt to tension it or take it off.. although I'm gonna have to make sure it's the outer belt or I'm gonna hate myself lol

 

[Turbo4whl]

With the open center valve the pump will not be running in relief. The pump will hit relief when you raise the plow and the single acting cylinder is filled with oil at full up. When the valve is off, oil flows back through the open center valve.

Here is a video of an open center valve. This is just to show you the path of the oil when you are not operating the valve. This is not the correct valve for your operation. Please remember what I stated earlier, pressure is resistance to flow. With an open center valve the oil returns to the tank (reservoir) with little resistance, so low pressure, pump not in relief.

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[shiftpro]

Weld the plow stationary to the frame and put on hydro suspension. Raise and lower the truck instead of the plow.
Beer really does make me smarter.

 

[Vbb199]

Weld the plow stationary to the frame and put on hydro suspension. Raise and lower the truck instead of the plow.
Beer really does make me smarter.

Random question, but we're kicking around on this thread anyway, how's your little guy?