Axle bearing loose, are other bearings damaged?

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nabeshin

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Did rear drum brakes the other day after a failed wheel cylinder, there is a special place in hell for the inventor of drum brakes. At any rate, the right rear drum heated up 100 degrees more after a short drive, but doesn't drag on jack stands. Figured out that the wheel bearing is loose and the axle can move up just enough under weight to drag the drum slightly.

I am going to get new bearings and seals, but don't want to do the diff and pinion bearings if they don't need it. When I did the fluid last year, there was no stripper glitter in there, I'll have to drain and check it now. But the fluid at the fill plug has no glitter.

Would the failed bearing have ruined the other bearings or spider gears? Hell, the ring and pinion for that matter?

I also assume that the axle is probably bad on the roller surface. The looseness has not yet compromised the seal though.

Opinions? All new parts to revamp the axle would be over $700 including a new gear set.
 

bucket

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Nope, internals will be fine. If the bearing surface of the axle is shot, there's a repair bearing kit that moves the bearing outward to fresh axle surface. They often work.
 

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Ya,I 2nd what bucket said before.That’s exactly why your diff magnet should be clean and in the housing,obviously.

I would inspect all after you drain the lube.Spray it out with brake clean.Look down the tubes as well.
 

nabeshin

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Good to hear. Looks like this is the bearing described.

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About $50 at my local nappa. SKF bearing, I think.
 

nabeshin

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More research shows that this repair bearing might not be as strong as new axles with the standard bearings. Is this a real concern? I won't be towing 10,000 lbs anytime soon.
 

bucket

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More research shows that this repair bearing might not be as strong as new axles with the standard bearings. Is this a real concern? I won't be towing 10,000 lbs anytime soon.

Yes. It's a simple trade off. I'd still try the bearings first if I didn't already have a good pair of axles sitting around.
 

nabeshin

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Still need to pull the axles to see if they are damaged. But these bearings would get the truck on the road if the surface is spalled.

Thank you for your help, bucket.
 

nabeshin

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Both axles are junk. One surface is badly worn, the other is spalling and not far behind. Also there are grooves worn in the shaft by the seals. Looks like I'll be shopping axle shafts.

Passenger side, the one that seemed loose.
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driver's side, the one that seemed fine.
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Also, the backside of the diff housing cover had some surface rust on it, as did the tips of the ring gear. This was the case about a year ago when I changed the fluid. The problem then was that the vent tube was clogged and vapors couldn't escape. I fixed that all then.

The fluid that came out seemed ok for the most part, but there seemed to be suspended rust goo in the fluid. The fluid was reddish brown at the bottom like it had all settled, clean on top, but mixing as the truck drives. No large particles or grit. I know it is bad, but I have no choice but to run it once I get the thing back together.
 

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if you lived local id sell you a pair for cheap that are good yet. 14 bolt full float tho. but you are in nebraska and shipping would kill. sowwy ;(
 

nabeshin

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Thanks for the offer, but a full float axle wouldn't work for me.
 

AuroraGirl

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what benefits does your semi float offer that suit your needs? lighter? Smaller?
im curious :)
 

nabeshin

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what benefits does your semi float offer that suit your needs? lighter? Smaller?
im curious :)

lol, it is what it came with. A simple K10. 1/2 ton trucks comes with a semi-floating axles to this day. You'd have to get the 2500s/250s to get full floating axles. Dunno about the heavy halfs though.

To be honest, my father-in-law should have bought a K20 or K30 back then. Would have hauled 10,000 lbs of hogs a lot easier... 3rd engine, 4th transmission, all springs shot.. etc... Kind of a miracle the bearings went as long as they did.
 

AuroraGirl

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lol, it is what it came with. A simple K10. 1/2 ton trucks comes with a semi-floating axles to this day. You'd have to get the 2500s/250s to get full floating axles. Dunno about the heavy halfs though.

To be honest, my father-in-law should have bought a K20 or K30 back then. Would have hauled 10,000 lbs of hogs a lot easier... 3rd engine, 4th transmission, all springs shot.. etc... Kind of a miracle the bearings went as long as they did.
Could always make the swap? I'm no expert on it, but putting a beefier spring and a 14 bolt FF maybe with a disc conversion might help your hog handling
 

nabeshin

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Could always make the swap? I'm no expert on it, but putting a beefier spring and a 14 bolt FF maybe with a disc conversion might help your hog handling

You're probably right about that, but the truck hasn't hauled hogs in 25 years. Just pointing out that 10k lbs was very much overloaded.

If it was still an active farm truck, I would totally look into beefier axles and such on it. The most I'm going to tow with it will be a boat or a camper, should be fine with stock axles.
 

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