I've owned my R30 since 1988 and have a kinda dumb question on bearings...

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Captain Ron

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Hi guys:

I'm replacing the REAR bearings on my 88' (square body) 1 ton dually R30 crew cab. Just because they've never been replaced at 140K miles - and yeah - I'm using Timkens.

Do I need to repack these with grease (like the fronts) or are they lubed with differential fluid? I have new 8 hole axle shaft flange gaskets as well and understand the torque on these bolts is 50 ft. lbs.

Any other helpful advice on this job would be appreciated - gracias!
 

AuroraGirl

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Hi guys:

I'm replacing the REAR bearings on my 88' (square body) 1 ton dually R30 crew cab. Just because they've never been replaced at 140K miles - and yeah - I'm using Timkens.

Do I need to repack these with grease (like the fronts) or are they lubed with differential fluid? I have new 8 hole axle shaft flange gaskets as well and understand the torque on these bolts is 50 ft. lbs.

Any other helpful advice on this job would be appreciated - gracias!
the bearings are lubricated with the differential fluid, which is carried to the ends by the axle shafts.

so maybe use it on install just so they arent 100% dry then put the shafts back in and torque those bolts. good you got new gaskets!
 

Captain Ron

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Awesome, that's what I thought and appreciate the reply. I think I'll shmear a little on the inside and outside like you recommended. Now all I gotta' do is "man up" to heft those brake drums back on without tearing the new seals lol! (I think I'm gonna' use a jack....)
 

AuroraGirl

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is this how big yours is ?
Also is your drum still good spec so you can machine it and then keep using it? using an original in good shape will give you less hiccups than the cheap steel and iron they use these days
 

Captain Ron

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Yup, it's a big chunk of iron! The last time I replaced a leaky brake wheel cylinder (15 years ago?) I looked at it carefully and it was all good. Didn't really take the time to check to see if it was round since all the "scuff marks" from the pads were consistent. Just took a little Emery paper and cleaned it up. I think that drum can last a lonnnnng time. Good idea about machining it though if the shoes are toast. If so just I'll put all new hardware in there as well - so (relatively) inexpensive!
 

AuroraGirl

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Yup, it's a big chunk of iron! The last time I replaced a leaky brake wheel cylinder (15 years ago?) I looked at it carefully and it was all good. Didn't really take the time to check to see if it was round since all the "scuff marks" from the pads were consistent. Just took a little Emery paper and cleaned it up. I think that drum can last a lonnnnng time. Good idea about machining it though if the shoes are toast. If so just I'll put all new hardware in there as well - so (relatively) inexpensive!
I would get it turned so it stays smooth and round, prompting good shoe wear. New hardware isnt debatable lol
 

Captain Ron

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Yup, will do. I'm fortunate to not have to worry about corrosion or even water exposure here in the desert. Rain? what's that... :)
 

AuroraGirl

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@
Yup, will do. I'm fortunate to not have to worry about corrosion or even water exposure here in the desert. Rain? what's that... :)
I just posted some GM parts for the rear that should hopefully be visible soon. do you have 3.5 inch wide shoes in the rear or 2.5?
 

bucket

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do you have 3.5 inch wide shoes or 2.5?

I have no idea why it selects certain images to discriminate against. Computers are dumb I guess.

As for the bearings, DO NOT pack them with grease. It's not likely to happen, but it *could* prevent the gear oil from entering the bearings as you drive it. I think it's best to just dunk them in gear oil prior to install. You also can simply pour gear oil into the hubs, before sliding the axle shafts in.
 

AuroraGirl

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I have no idea why it selects certain images to discriminate against. Computers are dumb I guess.

As for the bearings, DO NOT pack them with grease. It's not likely to happen, but it *could* prevent the gear oil from entering the bearings as you drive it. I think it's best to just dunk them in gear oil prior to install. You also can simply pour gear oil into the hubs, before sliding the axle shafts in.
good thing you caught that i thought he meant with gear lube.

Well, now I am confused, when I read it, i read him as saying putting gear lube on it, but the word smear is concerning too.
 

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