5.3 LM7 going in my 87
- Thread starter fried_daddy
- Start date
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fried_daddy
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- 1987
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- 5.3 LS
Ok. Thanks again for all the info! I haven't seen any diesels at the two yards I visit here. I'll give it a few weeks and try again later.
fried_daddy
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- 5.3 LS
We are getting closer with each passing day. Working on beating the crunch of time. Today I was able to get my shift linkage ran. I used a Lokar linkage. It took alot more adjusting than I thought it would have to get it to go through all the gears. I'll have to see how it holds up. I was also was able to get most of the harness hooked up and start on the drivers side exhaust. I already have the passenger side exhaust done but it is currently unhooked because I still need to run my transmission cooler lines. I have all of my harness hooked up except for the ground on the block, battery, and the +12v wire that goes to the ignition.
Plans for tomorrow: get the transmission cooler lines ran, install external transmission cooler in series with radiator cooler, finish drivers side exhaust, install cheapo mechanical gauges under the dash, secure wiring so it doesn't touch exhaust or any moving parts, put in radiator for a test run.
For the precious test run, I used a homemade rig to get fuel/pressure. It was a piece of steel plumbing pipe as a miniature tank with an air compressor quick fitting and valve on one side with an -6an hose and fitting on the other side. I set my air compressors regulator to 58psi and it worked fine for my previous test run.
Plans for tomorrow: get the transmission cooler lines ran, install external transmission cooler in series with radiator cooler, finish drivers side exhaust, install cheapo mechanical gauges under the dash, secure wiring so it doesn't touch exhaust or any moving parts, put in radiator for a test run.
For the precious test run, I used a homemade rig to get fuel/pressure. It was a piece of steel plumbing pipe as a miniature tank with an air compressor quick fitting and valve on one side with an -6an hose and fitting on the other side. I set my air compressors regulator to 58psi and it worked fine for my previous test run.
fried_daddy
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The engine is in and running now. It was a long weekend but it was definitely worth it. I spent most of yesterday running new fuel lines and changing out the sending unit. The sending unit can be changed by sluding the bed back. I also made some bolts to hold my tahoe radiator solidly in place. The coolant reservoir is usable for now but I would like to get something better for it long term.
The cam sounds great in the truck. Some guy from one block over actually heard it and came around the block to hear it in person. I'll get videos soon and post them here. The amount of power that this LS has is incredible. During the test run last night we were up to 85mph on the interstate without even trying.
Things that I have left are to get the brake wire hooked up. I forgot to hook it up while I was doing everything else. This may or may not be the reason that the truck idled too low and cut off on me at the stop light. If it isn't the reason then I'll have to get the idle adjusted up by a few RPM's.
The cam sounds great in the truck. Some guy from one block over actually heard it and came around the block to hear it in person. I'll get videos soon and post them here. The amount of power that this LS has is incredible. During the test run last night we were up to 85mph on the interstate without even trying.
Things that I have left are to get the brake wire hooked up. I forgot to hook it up while I was doing everything else. This may or may not be the reason that the truck idled too low and cut off on me at the stop light. If it isn't the reason then I'll have to get the idle adjusted up by a few RPM's.
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fried_daddy
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Here is a pic of it last night when I got back from the test run. I still have some more wiring to tidy up but the bulk of the work is done.
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fried_daddy
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I got my brake wired to send +12v to the TCC today. Since my truck did not have cruise control, I only had a 2 terminal switch. Switched over to a 4 terminal switch and wired the additional 2 terminals to send +12v to the PCM when the brake is not applied. Pic contains my old switch up top and the new switch down low. The under dash pic is the new switch installed.
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RoryH19
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Did the same on my k5. It had factory cruise but installed a new one anyway.
You will also need this for the DBW cruise control.
fried_daddy
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Nice. Were you able to find a 2 pin connector for the cruise side? I'm using individual spade terminals now but i'd rather have a real connector.
fried_daddy
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Ok. Thanks. I will have to see if I can find an original cruise connector.
fried_daddy
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I was able to get my truck professionally tuned yesterday. The tune came out great!! I couldn't be happier. I've been out driving around all morning with no issues.
During some of our WOT pulls, I noticed that the shifter arm was moving. I think this was due to me using a lokar linkage which is basically a solid rod. I pulled it out this morning and got the factory shift linkage installed and adjusted.
I have a DBW pedal assembly on the way from the mid 90's 6.5 Diesel truck and I will be installing that tomorrow to get the pedal geometry correct. After that, the truck will be put away for a while, while I move from Carolina back to Alabama.
During some of our WOT pulls, I noticed that the shifter arm was moving. I think this was due to me using a lokar linkage which is basically a solid rod. I pulled it out this morning and got the factory shift linkage installed and adjusted.
I have a DBW pedal assembly on the way from the mid 90's 6.5 Diesel truck and I will be installing that tomorrow to get the pedal geometry correct. After that, the truck will be put away for a while, while I move from Carolina back to Alabama.
fried_daddy
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So the fabbed up pedal I made was getting on my nerves. I decided to follow others advice here and get the mid 90's 6.5 diesel pedal. Here are some pictures of the pedal and the plug from my DBW pedal that goes into it.
There are two modifications that you must do to the white plug in order to use this pedal with your TAC module.
1) Move the wire on slot E to Slot A on the pedal side of the TAC cable.
2) Use a razor blade to cut a groove on the left side of the picture as shown when holding the connector in my hand for the pedal side of the TAC cable to go into the pedal.
There are two modifications that you must do to the white plug in order to use this pedal with your TAC module.
1) Move the wire on slot E to Slot A on the pedal side of the TAC cable.
2) Use a razor blade to cut a groove on the left side of the picture as shown when holding the connector in my hand for the pedal side of the TAC cable to go into the pedal.
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fried_daddy
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- 5.3 LS
I'll check and see if he is interested in doing any more tunes for anyone else.
fried_daddy
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Here is a picture of the newer pedal installed. It feels correct for the truck.
For my gauges, I'm using a ScanGauge II. Picked it up locally at AutoZone and it just plugs into the OBD II port. I got the speedometer set to match my GPS and it is dead on accurate.
For my gauges, I'm using a ScanGauge II. Picked it up locally at AutoZone and it just plugs into the OBD II port. I got the speedometer set to match my GPS and it is dead on accurate.
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