Short little tutorial on porting for hydro assist.

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Vbb199

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WOW ,great write up!! Never will I do this but now I know how!! You would make a pretty good instructor, if you ever chose to.
Thank you!!

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WOW ,great write up!! Never will I do this but now I know how!! You would make a pretty good instructor, if you ever chose to.
My sentiments exactly! Never hurts to know... keep it in the back of the thought locker.
 

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Like I say, later this evening, once the rebuild kit has arrived, go pick it up, and do a little tutorial of assembly. Because if anyone noticed I didn't talk about what the little ball bearings do. Or where they go.
I'll include that part in the reassembly.

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OK also meant to post this, kinda a demonstration for you guys, where the fluid flows on left and right turns. You can port into the vein for right turns like I did, or at the cap.
With the cap, it's aluminum, and cast aluminum, I've heard about it cracking, just a FYI.
I ported at the vain because flow from the rotary valve passes right by that port before it makes it to the cap resevour.
Just a piece of info.
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So everyone knows, I haven't bailed on the write up yet, the dummies at oreillys didn't get my rebuild kit in today, have to wait until tomorrow

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I would have been the guy that drilled and tapped into my assembled box and cleaned it out best as possible. But I can't do that now because I would be a ******* that was warned beforehand, lol.
 

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I would have been the guy that drilled and tapped into my assembled box and cleaned it out best as possible. But I can't do that now because I would be a ******* that was warned beforehand, lol.
Man, I wouldn't advise it lol, there's so many little cavities, ports, veins and everything else cast iron can get into. What makes cast iron bad is, it'll turn almost in a dust when machined. That **** will get everywhere. Especially in the rotary valve.
(hint hint that's one of the things you modify for increased fluid flow)


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Man, I wouldn't advise it lol, there's so many little cavities, ports, veins and everything else cast iron can get into. What makes cast iron bad is, it'll turn almost in a dust when machined. That **** will get everywhere. Especially in the rotary valve.
(hint hint that's one of the things you modify for increased fluid flow)


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I've been told the tolerances are farily critical too. Seems all it would take is for 1 or 2 small shavings to get in there and start scaring up bores and tearing up seals to where failure wouldn't far away.
 

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It could still work better than the average reman box, lol.

I don't remember exactly where the ball bearings go, but I know there's two different sizes that you really can't tell by eye.
 

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Great Thread !!! I've edited the title and taken away the form of a question and gave it a correct title. Also Stickied it in the Lifted Steering and Suspension section so it can be easily found.
 

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It could still work better than the average reman box, lol.

I don't remember exactly where the ball bearings go, but I know there's two different sizes that you really can't tell by eye.
Those bearings aren't important. When they fall out, just throw them away. :rolleyes:

:hmm: On 2nd thought, maybe not. :happy175:
 

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It could still work better than the average reman box, lol.

I don't remember exactly where the ball bearings go, but I know there's two different sizes that you really can't tell by eye.
Like I said, I'm covering the bearings and their function later today hopefully lol. This isn't done yet.
I was gonna wrap up the post with a re-assembly but like I said, those dummies at oreillys didn't get my rebuild kit in yesterday [emoji58]

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They go in this tubular 2 piece "cage" they're what ride between the plunger and the worm screw that's on the bottom of the rotary valve. They are 2 different sizes (some of them) putting that back back together without it falling apart is a PIA
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