Cab Leaks- Need advice.

[RTLane000]

I'm new to the forum and just purchased a 1982 c10. I have a couple leak points inside my cab that I need to address before remove surface rust on my cab floor. I would like to know the best way to address these issues. I used a water hose to find the leaks.

Leak point 1:
Drivers side kick panel. Is this some kind of factory hole or what? Either way it obviously looks like it needs sealed. Or was something else factory mounted here?

Drivers side kick panel:

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Leak Point 2:
Drivers side inside cab right above the foot pedals has wires coming through. You can see the inside cab portion below. The 2nd photo below shows the engine bay side. This does not seem to leak when I spray a water hose directly over the hood cowl. When I spray it near the gap between the hood and the cowl, then it will leak which leads me to believe that the water is getting into the engine bay. I noticed that the gap looks too big between the hood and the cowl mainly on the drivers side. This could be the culprit since the gasket on the inside rear of the hood is probably not making contact with the cowl area and is not blocking water from coming through into the engine bay. Look at the next photo for the hood gasket and the rest for the hood to cowl gap. I should probably still seal up some of the penetrations in the firewall since the wire and cable gaskets aren't working too well. There are other leaks that are coming into the cab from penetration points of wires and cables in through the firewall as well.

Inside portion of the cab:

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Engine bay portion:

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Hood gasket:

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Hood to cowl drivers side gap:

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Hood to cowl gap center:

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Hood to cowl passengers side gap:

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Leak Point 3:
Passenger side kick panel around the fresh air vent. The gasket it pretty much gone. I have some 1/2" wide window foam weatherstripping that is used for home windows on hand that I'm going to try. Or I may try to find the actual gasket online.

Any tips on fixing the leaks would be appreciate!

After I fix the leaks, I plan on removing the interior and getting rid of the surface rust on the floor with a wire wheel brush that goes on a drill. After that I will spray rustoleum rust reformer over top of it following by primer and then a topcoat of some kind. I will probably even do all this to the inside firewall and do some rewiring at the same time since the previous owners left it a mess. While I have the interior out I will probably even put some dynomat down on the floor and firewall. I have never attempted this before, so advice would be appreciated.

I also have some small rust spots on the inside bottom front corners of the doors that I will address the same way.



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[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Some of this stuff has to be experimented with and improvised. That’s what I’ve found at least. I’ve used RTV style sealer around the grommets that go between the cabin and engine bay. I’ve also used the Rustoleum version of the spray flex seal with positive results. Not sure about that first hole, but I’m having trouble getting my bearings on that pic. With the surface rust on the floor, that’s exactly what I would do with one exception. Home Depot sells a composite stripping tool that goes on your grinder. I like those better than the wire wheel for the floor pan unless you’ve got it deep in a crevice that the relative flexibility of the wire wheel is better suited for.

Also, there’s a common problem with windshield leaks. Some kind of spray in silicone that glass shops should do when the windshield is replaced. @Dutch Rutter had an episode with this not too long ago.

 

[RTLane000]

Some of this stuff has to be experimented with and improvised. That’s what I’ve found at least. I’ve used RTV style sealer around the grommets that go between the cabin and engine bay. I’ve also used the Rustoleum version of the spray flex seal with positive results. Not sure about that first hole, but I’m having trouble getting my bearings on that pic. With the surface rust on the floor, that’s exactly what I would do with one exception. Home Depot sells a composite stripping tool that goes on your grinder. I like those better than the wire wheel for the floor pan unless you’ve got it deep in a crevice that the relative flexibility of the wire wheel is better suited for.

Also, there’s a common problem with windshield leaks. Some kind of spray in silicone that glass shops should do when the windshield is replaced. @Dutch Rutter had an episode with this not too long ago.

The first hole was near where the hood release lever is at the kick panel. Thanks for the advice. I’m hoping to work on it soon. It’s been snowing here though. I might have to boot my wife’s car out of the garage. Haha


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