How do you remove the power lock switch?

[Goldie Driver]

Hello, All !
The truck is the 80 Suburban in my signal- the driver's side power lock switch seems to have given up the ghost for the lock position.

Unlock works fine, and so does the passenger side switch.

I'd like to try cleaning it, or if worse comes to worse swapping the 2 sides.

Not sure if it just pops out or not - don't want to mess up the door panels.

Searches revealed nothing.

Thanks!

Britt

 

[Blue Ox]

I'll preface this with "It's been a while" but my recollection is that if you can get a thin blade behind the switch flange from the side you can compress the spring clip that holds them and carefully work them out. Otherwise it's pull the door panel.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

In my 79 they’re slopped out so they just pull out pretty much

 

[Goldie Driver]

In my 79 they’re slopped out so they just pull out pretty much

That seems to be the way it is now - at least now on the driver's side.

Got it out and took it apart to clean the contacts - no difference.

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Anyone have one they can spare ?

Sounds like the guts can be swapped out - the chrome bezel is different thickness on the 79 thru 81 based on the LMC catalog.
They jump past them ...

 

[Goldie Driver]

Well, I tried using a paper clip on the harness today to actuate the lock.
Works fine for unlock, but will not lock.
I guess there is a wire issue behind the door panel on the driver's side as the lock functions fine from the passenger side switch.

Broken wire, maybe ?

I can't think of what else would cause am instant 1 operation/1 side only failure.

 

[78C10BigTen]

Well, I tried using a paper clip on the harness today to actuate the lock.
Works fine for unlock, but will not lock.
I guess there is a wire issue behind the door panel on the driver's side as the lock functions fine from the passenger side switch.

Broken wire, maybe ?

I can't think of what else would cause am instant 1 operation/1 side only failure.

Did you try the paper clip trick with door open or closed? Maybe its a pinched wire in the jamb...

 

[Goldie Driver]

Did you try the paper clip trick with door open or closed? Maybe its a pinched wire in the jamb...

Open- the switch does not work when the door is closed, either.

LOL- a little folded over duct tape on either side of the switch is keeping it in now.

 

[Snoots]

So the passenger side switch will lock & unlock?

 

[Goldie Driver]

So the passenger side switch will lock & unlock?

Yes, and it will function the driver's side lock for both lock and unlock.

 

[Snoots]

Here's how I see it:
Since I don't have the correct schematic for your vehicle I'll be making a 'best guess'.
You'll need to have a volt meter or DMM.

Concentrating only on the drivers' side, remove the connector from the switch.
Use your test instrument to find the +12 wire in the connector (orange?).
Now set the test meter (assuming you have one) to OHMS.
Place one lead on the switch terminal that would connect to the +12, LEAVE IT THERE, and the other lead to EITHER of the other switch terminals.

With your third hand, (or if you have a helper) move the switch to either position (LOCK or UNLOCK). One of the positions should cause the meter to read zero. Since you already know that the 'unlock' works let's assume that that's OK.

Now go to the other terminal and repeat the above test.

If you don't get a zero reading then you have a bad switch. (BTW, they CAN be rebuilt).

If you get a zero reading then the problem lies between the connector and the door lock relay.
We already know the relay is good because the passenger door switch works and the switches are wired in parallel.

IF there is a light blue wire at your switch connector, that should be your 'LOCK' wire. If not light blue then the wire that connects to the LOCK position on the switch is your culprit.

I would suspect a connector on the wire, not the wore itself unless the wire has become damaged.

Also remember that there is a connector from the door to the wire harness under the dash. If not just inside the vehicle near the kick panel, it may be inside the boot that runs from the door to the pillar.
Be sure to check that connection as well.

 

[Goldie Driver]

Snoots - thanks for the tips !
If I can get a weekend where I feel normal (battling something- blech) and decent weather I will check this out.

Since the ps works, would that rule out the wire in the door jamb to under dash?

 

[Goldie Driver]

Played some last Saturday- my meter does not have a way to test continuity or I dont know how to do it.

Ran a small jumper wire to the lock connector and touched the blue wire switch connector- it tried to work, so I know what the problem is.

Just gotta find out where the bad portion of the wire is.

 

[Blue Ox]

my meter does not have a way to test continuity or I dont know how to do it.

It's the thing marked with this-> Ω

 

[Snoots]

It's the thing marked with this-> Ω

Where the hell did you find that?

 

[Snoots]

I am assuming (probably wrong) that you DO NOT have a relay interface in the PDL circuit.

If you do have one then, you may just have dirty contacts in the relay connector.

Best to have a good ear and work the passenger side and listen for the tell-tale 'click' of the relay. It's likely under the dash from the middle to the passenger side.
Hopefully you can hear it over the lock solenoid.