Chuck’s engine build thread!

[DoubleDingo]

Ok, well, first off, do you think it’s possible that the corner bolts not clamping enough could cause enough lift to make the intake ports not seal?

I do have a wide band but as long as I’ve had the Edelbrock when you’re revving it out of gear, it’s consistently running on the transition slots and it always reads rich. Any way you look at it that clouds the picture.

If I guy were to put some sealant on both sides of the intake ports on the gasket, what would you use? I’m thinking some Permatex Aviation. I do have that stuff in a good quantity. Not that I’d overdo it.

Yes, if it's not an even clamping force front to back and side to side it'll allow gas or antifreeze to migrate in between the mating surfaces and gaskets. Especially if the bolts are bottoming out. It's leaving a wedge, albeit a very thin one, but a wedge shape nonetheless

 

[82SquareBurb]

Can you mock up the intake (sans gaskets) to get an eyeball read on fitment? Then assess an attack plan to seal it up. RTV should be fine for coolant and intake passages from my experience. Gaskets should be doing most the sealing, and of course use silicone on the china walls.

 

[ChuckN]

So the new manifold gaskets are on. I used regular ultra grey around the water ports, and just a little aviation sealer around the intake ports.

Changing the distributor didn’t change a thing. But after putting on the new gaskets and leaning out the carb, it seems to be running on all 8.

The next hurdle is overheating. I’d gone with a new thermostat, 180 degree. But it kept overheating so I pulled out the thermostat and filled the block this time (regardless of the fact I drilled a couple small holes in the thermostat flange and that didn’t make a difference). The gauge used to read about 170-180 and now it’s reading 230. I am feeling the top radiator hose go cold and hot with the cycling of the thermostat. My buddy and I set total timing at 35 all in at 3000.

I checked the thermostat in a pot of water and it opens at about 188. So either the sender is now magically off after having the engine apart or the thermostat is a POS and just plain lazy.

The AFR is reading in the 12s off idle (Edelbrock transfer slot) so it’s always a bit rich there. Yet it dieseled for the first time when shutting it off. I think it really is running hot.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Motorad thermostat?

 

[ChuckN]

Motorad thermostat?

I had one but returned it, to many reports of them failing open when they don’t need to.

 

[DoubleDingo]

I had one but returned it, to many reports of them failing open when they don’t need to.

Your description of it cycling sounded exactly like the 195 motorad I installed in my Cherokee. The gauge fluctuated. Took it out and found the old 195 Stant, the Stant is still in it and runs steady at 210 on fluctuates.

Your sending unit, does it test within spec? I don't have a book handy to know what the range is.

 

[xm20k]

Run a 180 stat your carbureted so don't need the extra heat for Pollution control/ECU and you've upped the compression which will run hotter in the cylinders as you now have higher cylinder pressure.

I run this in most of my milder builds and the 160 version of this in my 388.

Pardon Our Interruption

 

[ChuckN]

160 that worked before back in.

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[xm20k]

That's about 170 If that stays stable, I'd keep it and work on the tune.

 

[ChuckN]

That's about 170 If that stays stable, I'd keep it and work on the tune.

Thanks! Thats the plan. Trying for first drive tomorrow

 

[TotalyHucked]

Hey, it wouldn't be a fresh build without some sort of issues! Thankfully it sounds like some small ones, glad you've been able to work through them. Fingers crossed for a good first drive!!

 

[ChuckN]

Hey, it wouldn't be a fresh build without some sort of issues! Thankfully it sounds like some small ones, glad you've been able to work through them. Fingers crossed for a good first drive!!

Coolant leak returned. FFS! Drive didn’t happen.

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[TotalyHucked]

Don't feel bad, mine's leaking coolant too.