Finally got a running 65 C10

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DoubleDingo

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And as said, it should run with the choke open, especially once it's at operating temperature.
 

1low4x4

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Once it heats up, finally, it will run without the choke. Yeah, when I takeoff with the choke almost all the way closed I have to open it a bit because it doesn’t want to run obviously. But any amount of sitting, like 10 minutes you have to use the choke again to make it run at idle until it warms up again. Idk what brand the hose is. I guess I’ll have to take it off and see if I can cut it or not.

Supreme fuel fixed the pinging. Sailed on down the interstate at 70-72 no problem

Also Rick, today I stepped through the ceiling of a customers house, first time doing that in the 20 years I’ve been doing electrical
 

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bucket

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Once it heats up, finally, it will run without the choke. Yeah, when I takeoff with the choke almost all the way closed I have to open it a bit because it doesn’t want to run obviously. But any amount of sitting, like 10 minutes you have to use the choke again to make it run at idle until it warms up again. Idk what brand the hose is. I guess I’ll have to take it off and see if I can cut it or not.

Supreme fuel fixed the pinging. Sailed on down the interstate at 70-72 no problem

Also Rick, today I stepped through the ceiling of a customers house, first time doing that in the 20 years I’ve been doing electrical

Damn. This just ain't your week.
 

Ricko1966

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Once it heats up, finally, it will run without the choke. Yeah, when I takeoff with the choke almost all the way closed I have to open it a bit because it doesn’t want to run obviously. But any amount of sitting, like 10 minutes you have to use the choke again to make it run at idle until it warms up again. Idk what brand the hose is. I guess I’ll have to take it off and see if I can cut it or not.

Supreme fuel fixed the pinging. Sailed on down the interstate at 70-72 no problem

Also Rick, today I stepped through the ceiling of a customers house, first time doing that in the 20 years I’ve been doing electrical
Tell us about the time you called the VooDoo priestess a big effen phony!!!!
 

1low4x4

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Yeah, yeah, been rough, but today was a good day. Got to work up in the hill country by the lake, just gorgeous this time of year with the foliage. Ran a whole tank of gas through my work truck.

Looks like we’re going to the Texas Renaissance Festival, Friday and Saturday, which is usually a yearly thing but this year her sisters want to stay the night so here we go. Anyway, I’ll be driving my 65, it’s two hours and 11 minutes one way. Excited about that because I haven’t been able to drive it today and probably tomorrow either. I can’t remember the miles per gallon. It got before I redid the engine, but it wasn’t much. Like 11 or 12. Should be fine.
 

1low4x4

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Oh but usps lost my two NOS hubcaps I ordered off eBay. Says they are in a PO Box, but I don’t have a key to one in my mailbox lol. Going to the post office first thing in the morning. Hopefully I can get them before I leave Friday.
 

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1low4x4

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My hubcaps came in! But they are the wrong ones. For a bigger model I guess, c30 idk. And they aren’t NOS, they are repainted $150 wall art now
 

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DoubleDingo

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1low4x4

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Having hell with the wiring. So yeah, I installed the under dash gauges, then noticed I had a blown fuse on the panel lights. Replaced it, had lights for a while, then didn’t again, but no blown fuse. Reached up under the dash and started jiggling the headlight switch and could’ve sworn the lights flickered so I replaced the headlight switch. Still no work. Went to work under the dash with a schematic. Orange wire comes off of the fuse panel, hit the headlight switch. Comes off the headlight switch and goes to the brake light switch. The orange wire at the headlight switch makes the Brown wire to the tail lights hot, and the green wire back to the fuse for the panel lights hot. From there a gray wire comes off and goes to the dash lights. For the longest time I did have orange power at the headlight switch and then I didn’t.

The red wire at the headlight switch 12 V hot, only feeds the headlights. They have worked the whole time. The problem is with the orange. I finally moved some wires on the back of the fuse panel and realized the orange and the purple had worn on each other so badly they were almost worn through. Repaired them, and now I have tail lights and dash lights. However, when I press the brake pedal, tail lights go out.

Ground issue?
 

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DoubleDingo

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It's in the headlight/tail light circuits. That includes the headlight switch, brake light switch, turn signal switch, and various connections and grounds. You've been jostling connections, so it's helping and hurting as you go along.
 

1low4x4

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I get that...........its something in the fuse panel. I can twist it to and fro and it flickers. I just cant pinpoint what.
 

1low4x4

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Its something in the fuse block, I've regained steady lights and it doesn't go off when I hit the brake anymore. I've set up a mirror so I could watch the tail light and wiggled each individual connection, I just cant tell where it is. Everything is so damn old and crusty. Seems to possibly be a problem where the 2 orange wires enter and leave the block but its not a serviceable connection. That kills it from sending power to the headlight switch.
 

DoubleDingo

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I was going to say that it's a lot to do with the old wiring, and your fixing things. Sometimes wiggling/jostling connections helps, and sometimes it doesn't. Short of cleaning each connection and verifying voltage and voltage drops, you're going to be fixing them as you go, or rewiring the vehicle.
 

DoubleDingo

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But, the turn signal switch can sometimes cause weird things to happen.
 

1low4x4

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It really needs a new fuse block, the rest of the wiring looks ok. Under the dash at least. There’s three that go back to the rear bumper under the truck need replacing. There’s a guy I talked to earlier that sells new fuse blocks he makes just for these trucks for $120 that separate the dash, tails and dome into three separate fuses
 

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