Preparing for teardown (355), couple of questions

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ChuckN

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To review, I’ll be putting on some Brodix IK200 aluminum heads (after I have them gone over for QA at a local shop).

A couple questions came to mind. First, I’m thinking that before installing, I’ll need to clean up the deck surface, even though there’s only about 2000 miles on the engine. Any suggestions? Haven’t seen it yet, so this may be premature.

Second, the suggested head gaskets are EXPENSIVE. But even with a .490ish lift cam, I’d assume I need to check valve to piston clearance. Any suggestions to do with without wasting a gasket? I might be wrong but I don’t see a reason to check more than one piston.

Third, I may or may not be changing the cam depending what I find when I’m in there, I know it’s not stock. Flat tappets need all the lube during break in- will turning the engine to set lash wipe all of it off? The springs I have (recommended for the cam I want) don’t have inner spring to remove, just a damper. Comp said they are not separatable.

I’ve done all this years ago but it’s been ~35 years ago when I was a kid. Also, the lifters were likely higher quality back then and it was a tiny stock lift cam anyway on stock springs.

There will be more questions, these are just the ones in my tiny brain right now. Thanks in advance.

-Chad
 

Ricko1966

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Don't torque the new head gasket add a little crush into the equation. If you are worried about wiping off the cam lube(I'm not) run the valves before you install the manifold,then you can wipe on more cam lube and a pour a can of high zink oil in the lifter galley(I'd do that anyway) before setting the manifold down. Run break in rockers or some old factory springs for the 1st 500 miles. Your deck surface will clean up just fine with a scraper and some elbow grease. Stay away from Roloc dics and the die grinder.
 

ChuckN

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Don't torque the new head gasket add a little crush into the equation. If you are worried about wiping off the cam lube(I'm not) run the valves before you install the manifold,then you can wipe on more cam lube and a pour a can of high zink oil in the lifter galley(I'd do that anyway) before setting the manifold down. Run break in rockers or some old factory springs for the 1st 500 miles. Your deck surface will clean up just fine with a scraper and some elbow grease. Stay away from Roloc dics and the die grinder.
Thanks much! Good info there.
 

Ricko1966

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Also in this day and age if you have the pan off I'd epoxy a substantial magnet in the pan. If not taking the pan off I'd epoxy a big magnet to the outside of the pan close to the pickup. If the new cam were to go flat( hopefully not) the magnet and the oil filter will help keep trash out of the bearings.
 
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ChuckN

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Also in this day and age if you have the pan off I'd epoxy a substantial magnet in the pan. If no taking the pan off I'd epoxy a big magnet to the outside of the pan close to the pickup. If the new cam were to go flat( hopefully not) the manet and the oil filter will help keep trash out of the bearings.
I had planned on taking the pan off anyway to check the pickup tube. I have lots of magnets so that’s a great idea.
 
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Third, I may or may not be changing the cam depending what I find when I’m in there, I know it’s not stock. Flat tappets need all the lube during break in- will turning the engine to set lash wipe all of it off?
I would use the moly paste that they used to send with their cams over the red assembly lube type they send now (maybe they went back?) It'll stay on everything better in my opinion.
 

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