1976-87 dual tank harness available!

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gmachinz

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This LSx spec'd dual tank kit is going out tonight for a member in NM! I needed to finish drafting his harness diagram schematic for future troubleshooting and/or mods. On kits which significantly deviate from stock I design and include a color coded diagram using my graphics program-another benefit you don't get from the big harness companies! Then again, they don't offer what I do anyway!
 

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bucket

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I'm a long ways off from needing something like this, but maybe you can answer some questions for me. I've got a '79 K30 with dual tanks (older style switch and valve) that I would like to run dual TBI units on. I want to keep the original dash switch if possible. My only idea was to run a frame mounted pump, ahead of the selector valve... which I don't think the pump would like. Is there something that could be done, so I could run in-tank pumps and keep everything else appearing as original?
 

gmachinz

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For ease of plumbing AND looking stock, I'd suggest since you want to go TBI anyway, swap out your tanks and fuel lines for a set from an 87 Silverado. It's all nearly a direct swap for you. I'd suggest using an 87 fuel tank dash switch in place of your existing one too. If you use the harness kit I have available, it will all work on your truck-you just need to handle the actual fuel component swap stuff then-my harness would be plug n play at that point.
 

highdesertrange

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do you have a web site? I enter harnessworx and get mostly wireworx and a bunch of crap. please don't tell me it's on the facey thing. highdesertranger
 

gmachinz

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No....I don't have my website up just yet-I've been working mainly with forum members and the majority of my harness builds are custom variations of OEM style harnesses.
 

gmachinz

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This is the correct switch to use with my LSx dual tank kit. It's on/on instead of momentary/momentary.
 

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87sqrv10

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This LSx spec'd dual tank kit is going out tonight for a member in NM! I needed to finish drafting his harness diagram schematic for future troubleshooting and/or mods. On kits which significantly deviate from stock I design and include a color coded diagram using my graphics program-another benefit you don't get from the big harness companies! Then again, they don't offer what I do anyway!
I need the harness, mine is fragile and when I went to replace the exterior fuel tank switch piece the harness is crumbling.
 

Doppleganger

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I need the harness, mine is fragile and when I went to replace the exterior fuel tank switch piece the harness is crumbling.
This guy was exiled to the island of Elba years ago.

Wait - that was Napoleon. This guy was just banned. Surprised his avatar doesn't say anything.
 

Grit dog

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I'm a long ways off from needing something like this, but maybe you can answer some questions for me. I've got a '79 K30 with dual tanks (older style switch and valve) that I would like to run dual TBI units on. I want to keep the original dash switch if possible. My only idea was to run a frame mounted pump, ahead of the selector valve... which I don't think the pump would like. Is there something that could be done, so I could run in-tank pumps and keep everything else appearing as original?
Aside from what @gmachinz said which would work perfectly, I don’t believe a good external pump just ahead of the tank valve would be a problem at all. Most pumps are as you know designed to push fuel and if you get it lower than the bottom of the tanks it effectively is. However there are a ton of in line pumps in use and not all are actually low enough to create a siphon. However length of line before the pump, number of bends, restrictions and elevation all matter and minimizing the magnitude of minor losses makes a difference.
My example is adjectival but the carbureted 86 has a Vortec 454 with no fuel pump provision.
It was originally running off a little universal fuel pump mounted near the original engine mechanical pump, wired directly to the choke wire for power iirc. It worked but smoked the pump every time after a few tanks of gas…side story, told me it was never really driven hardly at all after the last 454 swap (which the 3 owners ago owner verified when I found him a year later). It had a sketchy power source and was pulling through over 10’ of fuel line. And no fuel pump shutoff unless the key was off! Lol
After painting it I planned to put a real pump back by the tank switching valve. So I ran good fused power to and from an efi relay back to the pump location. I slapped the newish cheap Edelbrock universal pump in “temporarily” back by the tank valve until I got everything else done.
“Temporary” was over 4 years ago now. The truck doesn’t get driven a lot but in the last 5 years I’d guess it’s gone through guessing 40-50 tanks of fuel on that same little cheesy pump and still works great. Sounds the same, no symptoms of fuel starvation or the pump crapping out.
Based on that I’d surmise that a quality inline pump would basically last forever. Since the mini pump has held up well enough that it has fell off the to do list.
 

Broken85

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I tried this setup after I switch to the Sniper 2 and it didn’t work for me. I put the inline low on the frame which was level with the bottom of the tanks and about 6” from the switch valve. It could never pull enough fuel. I think it was because between the tank and the pump it was relying on syphon to give it fuel and the syphon could keep up. Those pumps push, not pull. I pulled it all out and went with in-tank pumps. Maybe it was just my truck being difficult, I dunno. @Grit dog s set up has been a success so far.

The inlines get hot if they are not getting enough fuel too and burn up. I think there is a couple stories on here of guys carrying spare pumps and swapping them on the side of the road. I would say intank pumps are the gold standard, but you might get lucky with the inline setup.
 

bucket

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I tried this setup after I switch to the Sniper 2 and it didn’t work for me. I put the inline low on the frame which was level with the bottom of the tanks and about 6” from the switch valve. It could never pull enough fuel. I think it was because between the tank and the pump it was relying on syphon to give it fuel and the syphon could keep up. Those pumps push, not pull. I pulled it all out and went with in-tank pumps. Maybe it was just my truck being difficult, I dunno. @Grit dog s set up has been a success so far.

The inlines get hot if they are not getting enough fuel too and burn up. I think there is a couple stories on here of guys carrying spare pumps and swapping them on the side of the road. I would say intank pumps are the gold standard, but you might get lucky with the inline setup.

What pump were you running?
 

Broken85

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Grit dog

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I tried this setup after I switch to the Sniper 2 and it didn’t work for me. I put the inline low on the frame which was level with the bottom of the tanks and about 6” from the switch valve. It could never pull enough fuel. I think it was because between the tank and the pump it was relying on syphon to give it fuel and the syphon could keep up. Those pumps push, not pull. I pulled it all out and went with in-tank pumps. Maybe it was just my truck being difficult, I dunno. @Grit dog s set up has been a success so far.

The inlines get hot if they are not getting enough fuel too and burn up. I think there is a couple stories on here of guys carrying spare pumps and swapping them on the side of the road. I would say intank pumps are the gold standard, but you might get lucky with the inline setup.
I tried this setup after I switch to the Sniper 2 and it didn’t work for me. I put the inline low on the frame which was level with the bottom of the tanks and about 6” from the switch valve. It could never pull enough fuel. I think it was because between the tank and the pump it was relying on syphon to give it fuel and the syphon could keep up. Those pumps push, not pull. I pulled it all out and went with in-tank pumps. Maybe it was just my truck being difficult, I dunno. @Grit dog s set up has been a success so far.

The inlines get hot if they are not getting enough fuel too and burn up. I think there is a couple stories on here of guys carrying spare pumps and swapping them on the side of the road. I would say intank pumps are the gold standard, but you might get lucky with the inline setup.
Interesting. Aside from it being a pain for you. My example is just a single example and I know just enough about fluid dynamics and pumps to realize it is not the preferred or ideal setup.
Frankly surprised it has worked this well for me.
You realistically aren’t using a greater volume of fuel I’d think, than I. I’m pouring it into a thirsty big block carb. But you are much higher pressure and pushing a return line circuit.
I think I just realized now that my truck doesn’t have a return circuit.
Those are real differences that could affect it. As well as maybe what fuel pump you were using even though your pump would seem to be just fine for the application.
I too was working off of the “it’s almost a siphon” theory with my pump location which I chose for convenience at the time since it was “temporary.” With a full tank the fuel level is higher than the pump. With an empty tank it isn’t. But still works fine in my case.
 

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