Save Money On New Vintage Gauges this month

[fusky garage]

And it goes over 100 and it probably will you won't see it on a 100 psi gauge either. In either case you'll see you have a problem when the gauge goes full peg. VDO for 1 makes 150 psi gauges,maybe we should all get those,in case our relief valves stick. By the way have had it happen,with a stock gauge a née I had a problem.

All I’ve been saying that a 0-100 works for everyone. If you don’t need/want it it’s fine you don’t have to. Some builds it’s nice to have. But works with stock to built that’s all lve been saying.

 

[Zelph]

This is almost as entertaining as the BKFC that I’m watching.

 

[Ricko1966]

All I’ve been saying that a 0-100 works for everyone. If you don’t need/want it it’s fine you don’t have to. Some builds it’s nice to have. But works with stock to built that’s all lve been saying.

All I’ve been saying that a 0-100 works for everyone. If you don’t need/want it it’s fine you don’t have to. Some builds it’s nice to have. But works with stock to built that’s all lve been saying.

And all any of us have been saying is it isn't ideal for a stock CK truck. And all I did was try to offer a work around.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

GM has used 80 PSI oil pressure gauges in a lot of applications. Most aftermarket gauges that I've ever seen are 100 PSI gauges. Also, most times I've seen higher end gauges in a truck, it's a higher end build that is far from stock and usually with an LS under the hood.

Which for me personally, if I'm buying gauges like this, it's going to be for a very not-stock truck. A hell-raising C10 with a 6 speed transmission. The kind that would benefit from a 140 mph speedo and an 8k tach. Like the other trucks I've seen and mentioned.

I may be an outlier, but accurate modern gauges are a must for me.

I haven't had very good luck with factory gauges and the lights too. Plus driver comforts are way more important than an ls swap and is something more attainable for the people that are actually modifying these trucks and trying to drive them. A garage and show queen, sure those guys aren't putting in these gauges but everyone in between that and ls swaps are capable of the gauge swaps.

 

[PhotonFanatic]

But you see it doesn't work for every one, in the 1st 7 posts you have 2 people saying it doesn't fit their needs and 4 of the first 7 are yours so 2 out of 3 posts from members are saying these ranges don't work well for them.

And if this company was selling a 0-60 psi gauge, I would buy one. I like the look of their gauges, and my 0-100 psi gauge is kinda useless to me. So i'd be willing to buy theirs since it closely matches the gauges I already have.

But I think the issue is that nobody is making 0-60 psi aftermarket oil pressure gauges. I haven't seen any. I have heard you can order special gauges from Autometer, but I don't always feel like paying their prices. They're some of the highest around.

 

[Ricko1966]

And if this company was selling a 0-60 psi gauge, I would buy one. I like the look of their gauges, and my 0-100 psi gauge is kinda useless to me. So i'd be willing to buy theirs since it closely matches the gauges I already have.

But I think the issue is that nobody is making 0-60 psi aftermarket oil pressure gauges. I haven't seen any. I have heard you can order special gauges from Autometer, but I don't always feel like paying their prices. They're some of the highest around.

Is yours mechanical or electric? Can you post a pic?

 

[PhotonFanatic]

I’m not I took it as they want to see a 60 psi gauge instead of 100psi but I also stated that 0-100psi is better to acknowledging motor issues cause you’d peg out a 60 psi gauge. There’s a reason every aftermarket gauge company offers 0-100 psi. If you want to keep stock gauges go for. I’m not here to argue but trying to explain why 100 psi is common. Issues caused by high oil pressure read higher than 60 then the gauge is pegged and you don’t know what your running were 0-100 you would see the higher number

This may have been covered already, if so please ignore this, but it's less about "want" and more about need.

EDIT - Read the rest and yeah it's been covered.

 

[PhotonFanatic]

Is yours mechanical or electric? Can you post a pic?

Can't post a pic right now, but it's whatever setup the stock 1987 truck would have come with. Just a sending unit and a wire. Everything worked great and went right in place but the engine doesn't make enough psi to move the gauge unless you're getting into it. Then it does, and it shows the correct pressure.

I've thought of rebuilding the factory gauge using better modern components, but I don't want to take the dash off again for a good long while.

 

[Ricko1966]

Can't post a pic right now, but it's whatever setup the stock 1987 truck would have come with. Just a sending unit and a wire. Everything worked great and went right in place but the engine doesn't make enough psi to move the gauge unless you're getting into it. Then it does, and it shows the correct pressure.

I've thought of rebuilding the factory gauge using better modern components, but I don't want to take the dash off again for a good long while.

Okay so back to what I was saying when this all started,if we change the sending unit we can make the needle move more. But the pressures won't be correct. We can make it so it idles at say 25% of gauge rotation is pointing straight up going down the road and 3/4 of gauge rotation revved cold. But it would be reference not an actual number. That is what I was saying in post 8 I think. Would that be an okay solution? I haven't seen your hauge so I don't know the layout but as an example it might read 25psi idling 50 psi going down the road 75psi revved cold. Those wouldn't be correct psi but you could look and see you are only reading 20 going down the road and know you have a problem. Or you look down and see 5 at idle but you know it normally reads 25 at idle,you know there's a problem and time to investigate.

 

[PhotonFanatic]

Okay so back to what I was saying when this all started,if we change the sending unit we can make the needle move more. But the pressures won't be correct. We can make it so it idles at say 25% of gauge rotation is pointing straight up going down the road and 3/4 of gauge rotation revved cold. But it would be reference not an actual number. That is what I was saying in post 8 I think. Would that be an okay solution?

I believe so. I wonder if we could figure out exactly which sending unit would add +10 psi to the signal... If we knew that, then you could even add a little "-10 psi" to the gauge face. Like those RPM gauges that have x1,000 on there, since they only show single digits. Cause hey, why not. It would serve as a little reminder.

 

[Ricko1966]

I believe so. I wonder if we could figure out exactly which sending unit would add +10 psi to the signal... If we knew that, then you could even add a little "-10 psi" to the gauge face. Like those RPM gauges that have x1,000 on there, since they only show single digits. Cause hey, why not. It would serve as a little reminder.

It's probably not going to be a straight 10 psi. It's probably going to be a progressive change. We'll have to do some research on senders and find something with resistance values that will get your gauge in a more usable sweep. Find out what brand your stuff is and I'll try to find out the sender values.

 

[PhotonFanatic]

It's probably not going to be a straight 10 psi. It's probably going to be a progressive change. We'll have to do some research on senders and find something with resistance values that will get your gauge in a more usable sweep. Find out what brand your stuff is and I'll try to find out the sender values.

Ah. In that case, I'll probably go with a digital gauge, a factory a gauge, or a custom gauge. Accuracy and ease of use at a glance is important to me. But thanks anyway for the help!