Which primer to use?

[legopnuematic]

that Rustoleum Turbo paint

Personally, if you are going to use a urethane or epoxy primer, and plan to give it a real paint job, skip the spray bomb.

That creates a lot more work for the prep when you go to do a real paint job.

 

[Ricko1966]

Never heard of such a thing. An epoxy primer is a far superior product to lacquer primer. Top coating an epoxy with lacquer primer seems absurd to me.

Seemed absurd to me also,I just wanted to shoot epoxy and keep moving,then shoot the whole car with paint after it was all in epoxy. I can't recall the reason why other than the top coat window. But that's what the ditzler tech told me.It actually still sounds absurd.

 

[mxer147]

I sprayed epoxy primer and then sprayed Duraliner the same day, actually after the primer dried, I didn’t want to prep it again and figured I would get best adhesion. I reside in a dry climate so I had the luxury of several months to finish the job, it was exhausting removing seven layers of coatings.

 

[Ricko1966]

Seemed absurd to me also,I just wanted to shoot epoxy and keep moving,then shoot the whole car with paint after it was all in epoxy. I can't recall the reason why other than the top coat window. But that's what the ditzler tech told me.It actually still sounds absurd.

After reading the info from @legopnuematic now I understand it. The Ditzler dp40 has a recoat window of 7 days. After 7 days I'd have to sand and recoat with another coat of Ditzler DP40 before I could shoot paint. Where as if it had been shot with a Lacquer primer in the 7 days,all I'd have to do is degrease scuff and shoot. Which in realty isn't any kind of advantage. It's just a trade,shoot lacquer primer after epoxy then scuff and shoot whenever. Vs. Shoot with epoxy,wait when ready to paint,sand, shoot another coat of epoxy then seal and topcoat. Hmm no real world advantage.

 

[hoagster]

Personally, if you are going to use a urethane or epoxy primer, and plan to give it a real paint job, skip the spray bomb.

That creates a lot more work for the prep when you go to do a real paint job.

I agree skip the spray bomb! You will have to remove the Rustoleum completely when go to paint it later. I asked this same question to Tamco after spray bombing my cab with Rustoleum primer to keep it from flash rusting like your bed. Their DTM epoxy won't adhere to Rustoleum and I'm sure other epoxies won't either. Spend a few bucks for a good Direct to metal like Grit dog and others advised do it once instead of making the mistake I did. I had to sand blast my cab twice and then sand it to the proper level to get it right!

 

[fast 99]

Best to ask at a paint store. There are new products developed all the time. Not necessarily better because of VOC requirements. When I painted, epoxy DP PPG was was the best and also expensive. Recoating after 7 days? Sand and re-apply DP then continue, time consuming and expensive. If color wasn't going on within 7 days to get around it I applied DP and the first surfacer coat so another coat of DP wasn't needed. However I an not sure DP is even produced any more. Whatever you decide verify the product is compatible with subsequent coats.

At the time DP was the only sealer that Bondo would directly adhere to.

 

[bucket]

Is DP40 the purple-ish stuff? If so, I know for sure that you can apply that stuff, then sand and paint 6+ months later and it will hold up for 20 years at minimum.

 

[Ricko1966]

Is DP40 the purple-ish stuff? If so, I know for sure that you can apply that stuff, then sand and paint 6+ months later and it will hold up for 20 years at minimum.

It has a greenish hue.

 

[bucket]

It has a greenish hue.

I'm not sure if this link will work, but this is the stuff I have used for many years. It is excellent for long term projects and stuff that will sit outside for a long time before getting painted. As an added bonus, it can be mixed in different colors and it has a good amount of gloss.

COMPLETE™ 2.1 VOC Color Primer System | Martin Senour Auto

COMPLETE™ Primer System is a 2.1 VOC, premium quality 2K urethane primer designed for optimum performance in areas that require low VOC coatings

www.martinsenour.com

 

[Ricko1966]

I'm not sure if this link will work, but this is the stuff I have used for many years. It is excellent for long term projects and stuff that will sit outside for a long time before getting painted. As an added bonus, it can be mixed in different colors and it has a good amount of gloss.

COMPLETE™ 2.1 VOC Color Primer System | Martin Senour Auto

COMPLETE™ Primer System is a 2.1 VOC, premium quality 2K urethane primer designed for optimum performance in areas that require low VOC coatings

www.martinsenour.com

Thanks.

 

[fast 99]

6 colors PPG instructions are very complete. The original color was gray green DP 40 they expanded from that.

DPLF Epoxy Primers come in 6 colors:
DP40LF (Gray-Green), DP48LF (White), DP50LF (Gray), DP60LF (Blue),
DP74LF (Red Oxide), and DP90LF (Black).

file:///C:/Users/bgp42/Downloads/P-196+DPLF+Epoxy+Primer+6+16.pdf

 

[Grit dog]

After reading the info from @legopnuematic now I understand it. The Ditzler dp40 has a recoat window of 7 days. After 7 days I'd have to sand and recoat with another coat of Ditzler DP40 before I could shoot paint. Where as if it had been shot with a Lacquer primer in the 7 days,all I'd have to do is degrease scuff and shoot. Which in realty isn't any kind of advantage. It's just a trade,shoot lacquer primer after epoxy then scuff and shoot whenever. Vs. Shoot with epoxy,wait when ready to paint,sand, shoot another coat of epoxy then seal and topcoat. Hmm no real world advantage.

No, only need to do a 2nd coat of epoxy if going straight to paint with the PPG epoxy.
So yea theoretically if you have a perfect panel (basically new or perfect and stripped to bare metal) and you elect to epoxy it and have no other bodywork or filler primer or sealer to do then yes you’d have to 2nd coat epoxy.
Not the case with the OPs truck bed. Unless it’s somehow perfect or he’s painting straight over dings etc.
And lacquer is still not a good option for filler primer.

 

[Ricko1966]

No, only need to do a 2nd coat of epoxy if going straight to paint with the PPG epoxy.
So yea theoretically if you have a perfect panel (basically new or perfect and stripped to bare metal) and you elect to epoxy it and have no other bodywork or filler primer or sealer to do then yes you’d have to 2nd coat epoxy.
Not the case with the OPs truck bed. Unless it’s somehow perfect or he’s painting straight over dings etc.
And lacquer is still not a good option for filler primer.

The lacquer primer was only to buy time on the recoat window,so a second coat of ppg was not needed in the future. And you know something that just occurred to me is,maybe the guy who answers the phone calls for paint tech assistance has no real world expierience kinda like the guys who answer the phone anywhere these days,the computer says you have 7 days and in needs to be in paint or primer,that maybe the extent of their knowledge. I do know when I called with questions on an MSD streetfire their tech guy didn't know ignition system well enough to answer my questions,so I didn't buy one. And I called with an Edelbrock question once and it was clear the guy didn't know anything,I had to ask to talk to someone else,I think his name was Smitty,anyway he was like yea if you can answer the phone you got a job.

 

[Grit dog]

Sorry if it seems like I’m beating a dead horse here, but the primary issue with coating over with a filler primer is not that process, but your choice of material.
Lacquer primer, also not widely used and not widely available, is poorer quality compared to current products.
It’s like buying a Fram oil filter. It’ll work but it’s the cheap off brand solution that doesn’t perform as well.

 

[bucket]

Sorry if it seems like I’m beating a dead horse here, but the primary issue with coating over with a filler primer is not that process, but your choice of material.
Lacquer primer, also not widely used and not widely available, is poorer quality compared to current products.
It’s like buying a Fram oil filter. It’ll work but it’s the cheap off brand solution that doesn’t perform as well.

I think most would agree, it's less inhumane to beat a dead horse than a live one.