Master cylinder lid leaking

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RamblinGMC

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My 1982 GMC 2500 started leaking brake fluid around the lid. I tried a new gasket, still leaked. So today I put on a whole new lid with new gasket. Took her for a spin and the same thing is happening. It's leaking fluid around the whole lid, front, back and sides! WTF? The truck has a hydro boost behind the master if that makes any difference. Any advice is greatly appreciated!!!
 

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How full are you making it? If you overfill it may leak.
 

RamblinGMC

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How full are you making it? If you overfill it may leak.
I had been driving it for several years and never opened it. It just started leaking. It was half empty when I checked it, topped it off to about 1/4" from the top. I doubt the level has anything to do with it. Something odd is going on.
 

Chevy 88

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I had been driving it for several years and never opened it. It just started leaking. It was half empty when I checked it, topped it off to about 1/4" from the top. I doubt the level has anything to do with it. Something odd is going on.


Hmm. Any brake or brake line work recently? A metal brake line touching the exhaust?
 

YakkoWarner

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I had trouble with mine leaking like that when I first got the truck. I replaced the lid gasket/insert thing and it helped but didn't 100% solve it - check for some fine corrosion or any kind of contamination along the top surface of the MC itself. Is the spring loaded clip that holds it down still tight or is it real east to open/close (maybe not holding down tight enough)?
 

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Ive ran into this myself. Soak up, suck out, or blow out the brake fluid and Stuff a rag in the master and use a flap disk on a 4-1/2"grinder to resurface the sealing surface. Clean out and replace brake fluid and that should take care of it. Or maybe dry it good and smooth a thin coat of gasket maker on it?
 

RamblinGMC

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I had trouble with mine leaking like that when I first got the truck. I replaced the lid gasket/insert thing and it helped but didn't 100% solve it - check for some fine corrosion or any kind of contamination along the top surface of the MC itself. Is the spring loaded clip that holds it down still tight or is it real east to open/close (maybe not holding down tight enough)?
Lid is definately tight. Odd that is just started. And it leaks everywhere around the lid. The master is old but works fine. It is very clean, the old lid had some rust. I could see a leak in a specific area that went bad, but not all around the lid. I'm baffled!
 

RamblinGMC

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Hmm. Any brake or brake line work recently? A metal brake line touching the exhaust?
No recent brake work. Maybe about 4 years ago. Has always worked great.
 

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Lid is definately tight. Odd that is just started. And it leaks everywhere around the lid. The master is old but works fine. It is very clean, the old lid had some rust. I could see a leak in a specific area that went bad, but not all around the lid. I'm baffled!
Brake fluid likes to creep. A little leak will travel and make a mess everywhere. The lid is a place it would travel good even from a small leak spot.
 

YakkoWarner

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One of my favorite things to use for cleaning up gasket mating surfaces are the little Dremel tool shanks with various agressiveness Scotch-Brite type pads on the ends. They are pretty cheap (I got someone who has Amazon to order me a 100 pack for around $20.00) and because they are brilliant. They will take off slight corrosion, polish and strip paint/adhesive/old gasket without gouging the underlying metal like a metal scraper or sandpaper might, and in a Dremel tool they do it quick. They would be ideal for cleaning up the top of a brake master - but still require protecting the chambers from contamination.
 

Sad Sack

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Has the brake system been inspected like for seized wheel cylinders?
 

Grit dog

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I had been driving it for several years and never opened it. It just started leaking. It was half empty when I checked it, topped it off to about 1/4" from the top. I doubt the level has anything to do with it. Something odd is going on.
Not that topping it off is definitively the cause, but (with all diagnosis usually) go back to what changed before the problem started. Remove some fluid and see if the issue persists. Doesn’t need to be full anyways. If the brake pads/shoes are half wore out, the fluid would be noticeably lower than full anyways and it would never be an issue.
Also, if your brakes all work good and no need to crack a line or bleeder and you want to help preserve the system (at whatever age and level of corrosion is present throughout the brake system) replace all the fluid in the MC with new. Suck it dry and put in new.
Then check it after some drives. It’s probably brown again. Replace again. And repeat until you’ve effectively introduced a good qty of new brake fluid into the system.
Brake fluid doesn’t “wear out” quickly from use (like other fluids that get broken down due to friction/ rotating parts etc). But it degrades from absorbing moisture and moisture corrodes the (also cast iron) calipers and wheel cyl etc. If you can get the old brake fluid out, a flush is the best, but I just described what I call a poor man’s brake flush.
The new fluid will mix with old after a bit of use and dilute the old fluid with new. The more times you replace some of it, the more new fluid is left in the system.
Not perfect but a cheap easy 5 min way to keep your brake fluid fresher with less moisture.
Sorry not lecturing you but when you add old car and never checked or replaced fluid you get problems quicker than old car and fresh fluid.

Same concept applies to other systems and fluids as well.
I don’t have definitive proof but one example is the surge brakes on our boat. It’s not uncommon for the mc or wheel cylinders/calipers to have a short life compared to a car. I replaced plenty of <10 years old boat trailer components back in the day. Current boat is 19 years old. Bought it in 2009 and shortly thereafter found brown rusty brake fluid in the MC. I’ve been doing what I said above 1-2x a year most years since then and 19 years later the fluid is barely darker the next year and there’s no buildup of rust crud in the mc. I’ve probably put $15 worth of fluid in it in 15 years but haven’t had to do any brake repair yet. They still work.
 

RamblinGMC

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Ive ran into this myself. Soak up, suck out, or blow out the brake fluid and Stuff a rag in the master and use a flap disk on a 4-1/2"grinder to resurface the sealing surface. Clean out and replace brake fluid and that should take care of it. Or maybe dry it good and smooth a thin coat of gasket maker on it?
Thanks! That sounds like something worth trying! Beats changing out the master, which is what I was going to do today. If it does not work, change master tomorrow.
 

Grit dog

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Thanks! That sounds like something worth trying! Beats changing out the master, which is what I was going to do today. If it does not work, change master tomorrow.
Because that’s easier than testing real quick if you’re over filling it?
You said it didn’t leak until you topped it off.
 

RamblinGMC

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Because that’s easier than testing real quick if you’re over filling it?
You said it didn’t leak until you topped it off.
It started leaking and I had not had the lid off for a few years. It was down low, so I had to add fluid. I topped it off to about 1/4" from the top. It leaked, leaked with a new gasket, leaked with a new lid and gasket. So now I am just going to install a new master.
 

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