Noise identification lol good luck

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usar17

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Quick wiki research is showing the M1008s to have Dana 60 fronts with 14 bolt rears. But 4.56 ratios.

The M1009s had 10bolts with 3.08 which would be an exact replacement for wat I have now.

Anyone have corrections to this or helpful additions?

Id like a 14 bolt rear with 4.10 ratio
 

HotRodPC

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Most of the CUCV's are 1 tons and the rear axle spring perch space is off by 2 inches I believe it is. Either an inch, or an inch on each side. Now a CUCV blazer axle will bolt right in, but that is a 10 bolt 3.08 and I doubt you want that. As a rule, if it's 8 lug, it's 1 ton, if it's 6 lug, then it's a half ton.
 

usar17

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Looks like I'll keep calling salvage yards
 

HotRodPC

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Quick wiki research is showing the M1008s to have Dana 60 fronts with 14 bolt rears. But 4.56 ratios.

The M1009s had 10bolts with 3.08 which would be an exact replacement for wat I have now.

Anyone have corrections to this or helpful additions?

Id like a 14 bolt rear with 4.10 ratio

I think you typoed up there and meant 1028. Pretty much all the CUCV 1 ton truck have Dana 60 Front, 14b Full Float, all have Detroit locker in the rear with 4.56's and Open 4.56 in the front. But some models do have a LSD unit in the front too.
 

usar17

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Side note..

How far would u safely drive using just the front axle? Id like to move it closer to home
 

89Suburban

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Side note..

How far would u safely drive using just the front axle? Id like to move it closer to home

I have driven around some old Dodges and a Burb with just the front drive axle under power just for the hell of it. You get that wobble under a hard accel while steering tight but it will get you point a to b no problem. And yes you can do front wheel burnouts pretty easy, lol.

How far ya got to go?
 

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So you obviously have to leave the rear drive shaft in since you'd lose all your fluid when you pull the slip yoke, this is the advantage of bolt on yokes, you can disconnect the damaged driveshaft and still go, or to the damaged rear end. You've taken the spiders out and the crosshaft is broke, so the ring and pinion should just freewheel it now. Nothing to tear up in the rear end at this point. You're peg legger in the front axle right? Meaning open differential. Fugg it, drive it. You should be able to feel any speed wobble if it's not a good idea. I'd say 60 mph should be good with a front open diff without any harm.
 

crazy4offroad

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ok the first photo is the carrier now. The second is a photo i took last month when i change the fluid. (Sound was there before i did that, so i know i didn't cause this lol)
attachment.php

Crosspin is loose in this pic, it should be FLUSH with the carrier on both ends. Either the crosspin bolt is missing here or sheared.

EDIT now that I look at it some more I see the end of the shaft at the bottom is pretty beat up, the head of the crosspin bolt isn't visible so it must be missing. You can see the line on the upper end of the crosspin shaft, right below the spider gear and see how far it has slid down. If you look in the bottom of the pumpkin I can see metal shards in 2 locations, as well as a chipped tooth on the ring gear. That was your noise all along.
 
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Wow someone really didnt know how to set up a rear end at all and really cost one hell of a headache. dont you just hate idiots that do stuff they have no business doing. lol as soon as i seen the pic i seen the pin hanging out. someone that wouldnt know what to look for wouldnt notice that but anyone that ever done rear end work would of know that wasnt good lol
 

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OOOHHH THE HUMANITY!!!!!!! hahaha

Well the spiders grenaded in the differential assembly.

Here is my hyposis:

1. Spider pin was bent causing grinding at high speeds with no power on the system

2. when the spiders gave the Tcase freaked

3. Disessembly was pointless of the Tcase, BUT removal of the shaft allowed me to get the tcase back in sync with the overall system.


Everything seems to work great exept the rear axle is shot. THANK GOD JUST THE SPIDERS haha. Guess I'll still just use this time to swap in a 3/4 ton suspension and 14 bolt ff 4.10 unless any of my friends around here have a spare diff and spiders.



If this is your axle in these pics dont move this truck unless you can put pressure against those C-clips. they come out and those axles will come out garrented. Ask anybody who has ever broke either a clip or an axle shaft how fast they can come oout of the tub with the tire still attached.
 

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i didnt think about that but yes they can come out very easly
 

HotRodPC

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I just always wonder why the fugg everytime someone has something I need, or something I have to help someone out, they are all the way on the fuggin East Coast. I've got a 10 bolt 3.08 I'm not using right now. It's going to be my spare back up since it's got wussy 3.08's in it, but if you were closer, I'd damn sure loan it to you for a couple months til you found your 3/4 ton set up. And then, my bro walks in the house with his F 650 flatbed loaded with only 2 big valves the size of small refrigetators starpped down and says he's off to PA on an emergency oil rig leaking. I could've thrown the rear end on his truck had I known he was going, and had you go to his well site and get it off his truck. He just left 15 minutes ago with a NON CDL co driver since he's been working since 5am this morning. **** like that just never works out it seems.
 

usar17

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Wish I knew differentials before I put the cover back on or I could have prevented this. Guess I'll just leave it at the fire house till I find a way to rig up this 14 bolt from my c20 parts truck. Need a shaft and i dont know the ratio in it yet. I can disconnect the front shaft and just run 2wd till I complete the change over.
 

lusktommy

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you can get the numbers off the axle tube (you will need a wire brush) they will be on the passenger side tube on the front side get all the numbers on the tube call a local dealer talk to someone in the parts department and ask them to see what it is. and if you wanna double check it pull the cover off it and and count the teeth on the ring gear and the pinion shaft. that will tell you all about he assembly. its prolly gonna be like a 3.73 or 4.11. possible 4.56 but i doubt it

oh and drive shafts for those pickups are plentiful trust me. look on ebay they have drive shaft for squarebody chevy 4x4 out the butt. that will bolt right in depending on the splines on the transfer case, i cant remember what model transfer case you have
 
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lusktommy

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oops if you do count the teeth you may already know this but divide the ring gear by the pinion shaft and and it will give you exactly what ratio is

41 divided by 11 is 3.73
37 divided by 9 is 4.11
41 divided by 9 is 4.56

correct me if im wrong on those counts but im pretty sure thats right
hope you come out will a 3.73 those are good all around gears with a 700R trans
 

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