Noise identification lol good luck

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usar17

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well she's dead in the water. Definitely something with the transfer case. Reassembled everything and it isn't shifting out of neutral on the tcase. Makes all sorts of sounds trying to get it back into 4Hi. 4Low i think i blew up the rear diff somehow because now the driveshaft free spins. Ugh!

She's going to my buddy's shop now to have everything from the adapter back pulled and inspected.
 

HotRodPC

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well she's dead in the water. Definitely something with the transfer case. Reassembled everything and it isn't shifting out of neutral on the tcase. Makes all sorts of sounds trying to get it back into 4Hi. 4Low i think i blew up the rear diff somehow because now the driveshaft free spins. Ugh!

She's going to my buddy's shop now to have everything from the adapter back pulled and inspected.

Easy there Cowboy. Don't take it all apart just yet. If by chance your rear axle is broke and the driveshaft is free spinning, that is why your Tcase can't get into gear and making wierd noise. Even in N if you don't have anything solid to stop the spin, like wheels on the ground the transshafts can spin. It doesn't take much to hold them though if you are in N. In N, you could even hold the driveshaft by hand to stop it. But I don't suggest gettig under it to hold it without wheel chocks. But you're right, if the driveshaft is spinning while parked, you rear axle is trashed.
 

89Suburban

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Easy there Cowboy. Don't take it all apart just yet. If by chance your rear axle is broke and the driveshaft is free spinning, that is why your Tcase can't get into gear and making wierd noise. Even in N if you don't have anything solid to stop the spin, like wheels on the ground the transshafts can spin. It doesn't take much to hold them though if you are in N. In N, you could even hold the driveshaft by hand to stop it. But I don't suggest gettig under it to hold it without wheel chocks. But you're right, if the driveshaft is spinning while parked, you rear axle is trashed.



Damn right, drop the diff cover off the rear axle and check it man!!!!
 

HotRodPC

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yes, do check it. You might luck out and just have broken spider gears, or a broken axle shaft. If it's a peg legger, as in open differential and no posi or locker, it only takes 1 broke axle to leave you stranded.
 

usar17

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I'm pretty sure I broke the rear somehow because it didn't start free spinning till I gave it a little power. Even before that it didn't want to rotate or shift the tcase
 

usar17

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Got it into drive. Had to force the Tcase into 4Lo. Wouldn't move. Truck was straining so i gave her a little gas and snap, free spin. IDK if was the new u-joint i put in, it was pretty tight.
 

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Possible the pinion nut backed off, allowing way too much backlash. Just a matter of time before it went. If so be careful removing the ring/pinion, they may have knifed themselves down to a very sharp edge.
 

89Suburban

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Pop the rear diff cover!!!! :Jedi::Jedi:

:roflbow:

My first pickup, **** ton of peg legger burn outs, and off roading with 2wd peglegging, tore those spider gears right up in there.
 

usar17

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Well yes its got spider gears. I've had it open a few months ago and gears looked fine. I'll check the nut
But the tcase is jammed and won't shift
 

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Well yes its got spider gears. I've had it open a few months ago and gears looked fine. I'll check the nut
But the tcase is jammed and won't shift

You need to handle one issue at a time here. First and foremost, you know the rear end is jacked. Handle that first. THEN, diagnose the Tcase. It's possible the Tcase is just fine and need the motor started up, trans put in drive scoot the truck forward, put the trans in N, then try to shift the Tcase. It might just be that it needs synchronzied. So fix the rear end first. Then play with the Tcase. Keep jacking with the Tcase, you might just make a problem that doesn't currently exist. Running transmisisons and Tcases without axles to the ground, and shifting them from P, drive, reverse, P again, and Tcase in and out of 4hi, 2 hi, 4 low etc, is not good when the motor is running. Without resistance, the shafts are still in motion and shifting while shafts are in forward motion to an immediate stop, or reverse is NOT a good thing.
 

usar17

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I'll pop the rear and look but if its too jacked up I'm gonna take this opportunity to swap in a 14bolt and 3/4 ton suspension.
 

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Now you're talkin !!! Keep in mind, K10 Springs are 52in in the rear. A K20 can have either 52in in the rear or 56in. BUT, A C20 is 56 in springs. So you're likely to find the rear 3/4 tons springs on a 2wd 3/4 ton. Then you'll have to move your Rear spring mount back to make room for the longer spring. Your frame should already be punched with the holes. I'd for sure go with the 56in springs since they should have the strength of 3/4 ton, but being longer, not as rough riding.

For some wierd reason, C10 and K20 could come in either 52 or 56in springs. Everything else only came in 1 option depending on the model.
 

usar17

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The '87 "parts" truck i got is a C20 ;) hello 56s
 

HotRodPC

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The '87 "parts" truck i got is a C20 ;) hello 56s

There you go. You have springs already. I'm going to be doing same swap too on my K10.
 

usar17

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Lemme re ask this so I'm clear....

The transfer case may not be shifting properly now because the rear end is broke and free spinning and the vehicle hasn't moved in awhile?
 

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