Noise identification lol good luck

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usar17

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I'm having a hard time locating a 14 FF. If I got a SF will a disc brake kit still fit or are those for ff only
 

HotRodPC

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Seems all 14 bolts have dried up around here. About a year ago, you could get a 14b FF with 4.10 or 3.73 for $150 and choose the one closest to your house. And that's how it works too. When you find 1, you'll find 2 or 3, but that's a good thing because it gives you bargaining power. I was thinking I paid $150 for my CUCV 14b FF with Detroit Locker, then I found my thread from the day I brought it home. I only paid $125 for it. I remember now too, he wanted $150, but I helped him pull it out of the truck and got it for $125. You can get Disk brake conversions for anything now days.
 

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usar17

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I'll spend more in gas then the axle for some of those haha
 

usar17

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And a lot of the listings I've emailed and never got anything back :/
 

HotRodPC

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I wish to fugg you were closer. I've got 2 14b SF's both are open 4.10's ready for lunchboxes, and could even loan a 10b 3.08 Open diff til you found one. I won't sell that one though cuz I'm going to be putting 4.10's in it with my Detroit Locker I think. To go with the 10b Front ARB Air Locker 4.10, so I can keep my pair of 10b 3.73's an unbroken spare set.
 

usar17

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Ur so thoughtful :worthy:
 

usar17

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well i got kinda lucky. A friend hhad a GM10 bolt rear differential carrier and spiders from his old truck that he's giving me for free. This way i can atleast get the truck on the road awhile.

I've never done this before. I'm gonna search the forums, but you guys know of any good how-to videos or posts?
 

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ehhhhhhhhh, I don't recommend anyone trying to do a rear diff for the first time on their own. Although a good video would probably be good enough. Keep in mind, if it's not done right, it's short lived. By short lived I mean, it might last 100 miles, it might last 1000, and it could be even last 10,000 miles. Just all depends on how far off, and what is off that will determine how soon it'll fail. Do it right, it'll go for hundreds of thousands of miles as in 300,000-500,000 miles.
 

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I would hope that as long as the carriers are the same size; if i use the same gear ring and shims, i should be good.

Im planning on using gear compound to check the rub between the ring and pinion. If thats good what else do i need to check? I'll be locktight'ing all the bolts.
 

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You can keep the shims from each side of the carrier separated to which side they go and you MIGHT get lucky but honestly I doubt it. When you have to have 0.015" backlash for used gears, casting variances can be more than that. If it was a front axle I wouldn't worry too much but you want the rear as good as you can get it. You will need a press to install the pinion bearing, which may need to come back off a few times to get the shims right behind it. You'll also need a dial indicator micrometer to set backlash, and a caliper micrometer to measure shim thicknesses if you have to start making adjustments. And you'll need an impact capable of at least 450 ft/lbs of torque to crush the crush collar. I'm not trying to discourage you but rather let you know what you're going to need. Read through that link 89S posted. I have another thread on a Dana 60 r & p install so between the 2 you should be able to figure out what you need to do.
 

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i wasn't planning on touching the pinion. There is no damage to the ring and pinion, just one spider, the spider stud and the carrier were damaged.

The new carrier is already assembled and just needs the gear ring installed then placed in the axle housing.
 

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You still may need to adjust pinion depth. Like I said you may get lucky but the difference in the carrier's casting, and the wear of the carrier bearings you may need to be able to know how thick your shims are left to right to move tighten (or even loosen) backlash. And sometimes in doing so you end up having to change pinion depth. One adjustment affects the other.
 

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You still may need to adjust pinion depth. Like I said you may get lucky but the difference in the carrier's casting, and the wear of the carrier bearings you may need to be able to know how thick your shims are left to right to move tighten (or even loosen) backlash. And sometimes in doing so you end up having to change pinion depth. One adjustment affects the other.

^^This. :word:
 

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