Intake Manifold Gasket R & R

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Old77

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:eek:
 

89Suburban

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So anyway I did the best with what I had available to me. The ony tap I had laying around was the wrong size and was fine thread, So I took a bolt and cut grooves with the dremel cut disc lengthways into the threads to make a home made tap and just drove it in and out, a little at a time, TAKE IT BITCH, and it kind of worked. I was at the point that I didn't give a **** now because of the fact the intake gaskets were fine and I didn't have to do any of this **** in the first place.


:flipthebird: :flipthebird: :flipthebird: :flipthebird: :flipthebird:

Putting the housing on...
 

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89Suburban

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I don;t know wtf is going on here either...:baby:
 

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89Suburban

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Installing the gaskets and sealant....
 

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89Suburban

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Good squash on the end sealants.:High 5:
 

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89Suburban

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Torqued the manifold to 30 ft. lb. in proper sequence.

2nd pic is reinstalling ****, some cardboard an a few of my woobies help ease the pain, war zone shown.....:baby:
 

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89Suburban

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Installed the wires, new heater and vacuum hosing, throttle controls, fule lines and brake booster line...
 

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89Suburban

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Making a new air cleaner base gasket out of cork sheet gasket material.:High 5:
 

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89Suburban

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Installing air cleaner base and breather tube, pcv tube, egr soleniod tube, charcoal filter tube, sensor cluster and associated wiring, alternator wiring, all sensor plugs, etc. Hooked new heater hose to heater core and installed upper radiator hose and filled with coolant for intial warm up run and check. Once warmed to operating temperature, will adjust ignition timing to factory specs.
 

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89Suburban

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Here's the answer to the question about to open port, or not to open port your rear coolant passages in the intake manifold. Open port is for heating the manifold for use with manifold mounted choke thermostats. So my truck has one more thing it didn't really need, a hotter manifold. :suicide:
 

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89Suburban

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No I am wrong about that, the heat cross over is an exhaust port that heats the manifold. It is located right in the middle of each side of the manifold.
 

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Swims350

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that's what confused me about the open or blocked ends because the ones in the middle have restrictor plates or blocks to go in them.
 

89Suburban

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Engine warmed up at normal idle, time to check and adjust the timing. According to the label on the fan shroud and in the manual, you need to disconnect the spark advance wire. It is tan with a black stripe and after some searching found that it is located on the firewall batween the brake booster and the wiper motor.:High 5:

I need to set to 0* BTDC.
 

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89Suburban

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that's what confused me about the open or blocked ends because the ones in the middle have restrictor plates or blocks to go in them.
Yeah man, so if you have an old school manifold mounted choke thermostat, you got to open those middle exhaust ports up. As far as the rear manifold coolant passages, I guess it depends on your preference.
 

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Before and after pics. You got just enough room to squeeze a dremel in there with a wire brush to clean off the timing plate and identify the numbers. And using the digital camera makes it easier to see the marks and numbers where you have to be. As you can see the lowest valley in the teeth is 0* and they are all 2* increments. You can save this pic for future reference guys. :handshake:
 

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