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Jims86

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Starting to regret my decision to get rid of mine, with all this talk, but the wifey wont go for any more of my B 52 style updates.
 
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HotRodPC

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Thanks for the solid advice guys. Another guy tells me that he swears by the tci brand of controller for this swap. Same lrice as the other.

If you know someone that has used one of the controller products, and it's the same price, and they give good review, then I'd say rock with it. Go with someone has used instead of being the Guiena Pig. You're a Guiena Pig anyway, I don't know of anyone on the forum that has done the swap with a Stand Alone Controller. I gotta a stiffie waiting to see how it turns out. I hope it's all good and I Think it will be.
 

wildcatjason

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My best suggestion for towing with overdrive is add a temp gauge and don't let it over heat. Don't let the tranny hunt. If it hunting its struggling.
 

HotRodPC

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My best suggestion for towing with overdrive is add a temp gauge and don't let it over heat. Don't let the tranny hunt. If it hunting its struggling.

Yep, better off to be in D Locked up conveter, than in and out of OD. Temp gauge is certainly not a bad idea. If it's doing well in OD but running hot, kick it down to D and lock up the converter. Locked up Converter will reduce heat significantly.
 

HotRodPC

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Starting to regret my decision to get rid of mine, with all this talk, but the wifey wont go for any more of my B 52 style updates.b

Did you get rid of it yet? I know you need to do what you gotta do. Things aren't looking the way I'd hoped they would either. But, never know. I may still pull it off.
 

Jims86

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Did you get rid of it yet? I know you need to do what you gotta do. Things aren't looking the way I'd hoped they would either. But, never know. I may still pull it off.

No, its still up there...waiting for you, but, if it doesnt work out, I may hang on to it. I dunno, sure cant afford to keep dumping money into it every 2 or 3 years like this. But I know a 4l80 would be the answer.
 

Jims86

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edit: duplicate
 

HotRodPC

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No, its still up there...waiting for you, but, if it doesnt work out, I may hang on to it. I dunno, sure cant afford to keep dumping money into it every 2 or 3 years like this. But I know a 4l80 would be the answer.

It should be farily easy for you in that one. You're already ECM'ed with TBI right? Wouldn't need the controller. Just an ECM swap and program huh??? Your hurdle and expense is going to be the Tcase adaption and driveshaft mods. Or course if you found a 91 3/4 ton Burb, rob the Dshafts, and maybe the crossmember, not sure if it's the same, and 4L80-E from it and you'd cut your expenses to very reasonable. Especially if you found one with a good used Trans in it.
 

Jims86

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It should be farily easy for you in that one. You're already ECM'ed with TBI right? Wouldn't need the controller. Just an ECM swap and program huh??? Your hurdle and expense is going to be the Tcase adaption and driveshaft mods. Or course if you found a 91 3/4 ton Burb, rob the Dshafts, and maybe the crossmember, not sure if it's the same, and 4L80-E from it and you'd cut your expenses to very reasonable. Especially if you found one with a good used Trans in it.

That would be like a needle in a haystack. The t case is my big worry, as mine is not that old, and for the ecm, I was planning on re pinning the harness for the later TBI ecm that I have, that is programmed right now for a 60e equipped burb.
 

HotRodPC

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That would be like a needle in a haystack. The t case is my big worry, as mine is not that old, and for the ecm, I was planning on re pinning the harness for the later TBI ecm that I have, that is programmed right now for a 60e equipped burb.

Well Damn, you already got the 60-E ECM, you're over half way there already. I really doubt you'd have that big of problem with the Tcase. You're a NP208 or NP241 right??? Then it's round pattern and should be the same adapter as a GMT400 3/4 ton adapter I'd think. :shrug: Not positive. It's the 4L80-E/NP205 Passenger side drop that is so elusive. The round pattern shouldn't be all that hard. Big difference being, Squares are PS drop, GMT400 is DS drop. Otherwise should still clock and bolt right up I'd think. :shrug:

You know once you got it done, that trans would probably last 150,000 miles. The biggest problem I hear of 4L80-E's is them going into Limp Mode, which is 2nd gear only to get you off the road. And usually the problem is a sensor of some sort, VSS, TPS or some crap like that and it throws the trans into Limp mode.
 

Jims86

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Well Damn, you already got the 60-E ECM, you're over half way there already. I really doubt you'd have that big of problem with the Tcase. You're a NP208 or NP241 right??? Then it's round pattern and should be the same adapter as a GMT400 3/4 ton adapter I'd think. :shrug: Not positive. It's the 4L80-E/NP205 Passenger side drop that is so elusive. The round pattern shouldn't be all that hard. Big difference being, Squares are PS drop, GMT400 is DS drop. Otherwise should still clock and bolt right up I'd think. :shrug:

You know once you got it done, that trans would probably last 150,000 miles. The biggest problem I hear of 4L80-E's is them going into Limp Mode, which is 2nd gear only to get you off the road. And usually the problem is a sensor of some sort, VSS, TPS or some crap like that and it throws the trans into Limp mode.
i have a 208.
I'm torn. I would love this new truck... 25 mpg and a warrenty, but I have also been without a car payment for a month now, and lovin it.
 

Jims86

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Dammit...why do I leep doing that!
 

wildcatjason

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i have a 208.
I'm torn. I would love this new truck... 25 mpg and a warrenty, but I have also been without a car payment for a month now, and lovin it.

Built a vehicle once right and keep it simple. You will be the warranty. I own a 7000 lbs 3/4 ton truck right now that floats at 21-22 on the highway with a diesel. It's 10 years old. New is over rated.
 

HotRodPC

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i have a 208.
I'm torn. I would love this new truck... 25 mpg and a warrenty, but I have also been without a car payment for a month now, and lovin it.

Here the analagy I use. If I buy a new vehicle, the payment will be in the $400 mo range for 60-72 months. The insurance is going to be $80 a month,where as now it's less than $20 a month. So I'm looking at $460 a month for new. That $460 buys an awful damn lot of gas. Even if gas is $4 a gallon that's 115 gallons of gas. If I'm only getting 14mpg that's 1610 miles a month. I know I'm not driving anywhere near that. Probably not even half of that.


So even if I was getting 25 mpg, I'd still have to buy gas on top of the $460 a month. Even if I do drive 1600 miles a month, it's pretty much considered FREE gas if I don't have a car payment.
 

Jims86

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Here the analagy I use. If I buy a new vehicle, the payment will be in the $400 mo range for 60-72 months. The insurance is going to be $80 a month,where as now it's less than $20 a month. So I'm looking at $460 a month for new. That $460 buys an awful damn lot of gas. Even if gas is $4 a gallon that's 115 gallons of gas. If I'm only getting 14mpg that's 1610 miles a month. I know I'm not driving anywhere near that. Probably not even half of that.


So even if I was getting 25 mpg, I'd still have to buy gas on top of the $460 a month. Even if I do drive 1600 miles a month, it's pretty much considered FREE gas if I don't have a car payment.

Yeah, that makes sense to me, but dont forget about the tow( for us that are not doing it for a living any more)
A project vehicle just does not seem practical as a reliable family vehicle. Add the stress of trying to figure out how to transport an entire family to the intended destination, and then the repair because you cant bring your tools with you, a place to work on it with suficient tools, and then if you cant repair it, or afford to have it repaired, there is the hassle of finding a way back home...The mini van we rented set us back over $350....dont need the headache. If it was just me, and nobody else, yeah, I would fix it and keep going.
 

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