General Engine Related Talk and Questions

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bucket

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The rear ports are blocked, there usually isn't a main coolant crossover back there.

I also NEVER EVER use the rubber end seals, they are able to push out and leak. A 1/4 inch bead of Ultra Black RTV will seal it off just dandy, and will hold up longer than anything else on the motor.
 

skysurfer

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I also NEVER EVER use the rubber end seals, they are able to push out and leak. A 1/4 inch bead of Ultra Black RTV will seal it off just dandy, and will hold up longer than anything else on the motor.

I've heard the same from several sources.
 

89Suburban

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Gimme a few minutes, I'll go get a pic of that.

Here ya' go. The pipe ends at the hose clamp on the left. Notice it's held with a clamp & screw to that bracket off the end of the valve cover. The same bracket also is used to keep the plug wires in order.

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The gaskets have the blocked ports at the rear of the engine. I thought it was strange to have those blocked off and made a point to put the old gaskets oriented properly on the legs of the engine stand below so I would remember how to put them back on.
Boy, I like that wire holder on the back of that valve cover, I don't have that ****. Plus if you note on my heater hose pic, the hose coming in from the heater core is crimped onto the tube, not clamped. I guess that tube corrodes and breaks and this guy just patched it like that.
 

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I also notice sky, that my hose fitting coming out of the manifold is at a different angle and even looks like in a slightly different position than yours, you see that?
 

skysurfer

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I don't think it would bend without crimping so I think what you are seeing is just the difference betwwen the position they were tightened down at. If you loosened the nut and rotated yours back I think they would look the same.
 

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check with white performance on ebay or skip white, they have some cheap dist. that are pretty good from what I hear, but I too was looking at the dist. from summit for $90.

I have heard over and over to use rtv on the ends but I never do I use the gaskets and it works fine for me. I think the one on dad's truck leaks, I think it got pushed in or out and leaks but not sure. You guys glue and stick or let it tack up? I've heard other guys let it tack up then slap it down. I think to make sure I got it thick enough I'd glue the intake and block then do it. I always worry if I do something good enough.


Now for that heater hose, WOW mines got a nipple only and no fitting. As for the wire holders I had them, took em off. Not sure if I still got em or not.

Now I found some pics..

the a/c bar I had to remove.

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water neck bar..
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you can kinda see my heater hose here, although mine is an 88 pickup, the newer body style.
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You might soak that fitting with penetrating oil and remove it, then see what size it is and get a reg. heater hose nipple from a local parts store and put in there, then clamp your heater hose on it.
 
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89Suburban

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Swimz, is you EGR valve operative? When I hook mine up it runs like dawg ****.
 

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The rear ports are blocked, there usually isn't a main coolant crossover back there.

I also NEVER EVER use the rubber end seals, they are able to push out and leak. A 1/4 inch bead of Ultra Black RTV will seal it off just dandy, and will hold up longer than anything else on the motor.
The rear ports are blocked on a stock manifold? Is the actual casting blocked or just the gasket?
 

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It was back then but aint now. I found out mine was just, wouldn't hold vac. I took a piece of the bedside repair panel we bought and made a block off plate, but I put the egr back on top of it. I was afraid the plate being thin would not seal good enough, so I ground the nipple off the bottom of my egr to make it flat, then I laid down the gasket, plate and then egr and bolted it down. I plugged the vac. going to it and now it's just fine. It did throw an egr code once but never again lol.
 

bucket

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The rear ports are blocked on a stock manifold? Is the actual casting blocked or just the gasket?

IIRC, there's only the small port for the heater hose. There is not a coolant passage back there that connects the two heads together (like the front), and most aftermarket intakes don't have any plumbing back there at all. The heater hose used to connect at the front of the manifold, before the TBI years.
 

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IIRC, there's only the small port for the heater hose. There is not a coolant passage back there that connects the two heads together (like the front), and most aftermarket intakes don't have any plumbing back there at all. The heater hose used to connect at the front of the manifold, before the TBI years.
THAT'S THE INFO I AM LOOKING FOR! So, on the stock TBI manifold, the rear passage is just for the heater port and it doesn't cross over from head to head? Does using a open or blocked gasket with a small hole affect the heater performance?
 

bucket

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That I'm not sure of. I'd guess the small hole restricts the flow enough that hot coolant stays in the heater core longer?
 

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That I'm not sure of. I'd guess the small hole restricts the flow enough that hot coolant stays in the heater core longer?
Well, I believe the hot coolant is flowing from the intake manifold into the heater core....
 

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89Suburban

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I don't think it would bend without crimping so I think what you are seeing is just the difference betwwen the position they were tightened down at. If you loosened the nut and rotated yours back I think they would look the same.
Yes. You are right.:High 5:
 

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