General Engine Related Talk and Questions

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

89Suburban

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2010
Posts
24,536
Reaction score
5,829
Location
Southeast PA
First Name
Paw Paw
Truck Year
2007
Truck Model
Chevrolet Tahoe LT
Engine Size
5.3, 4WD
Is this a normal intake manifold gasket kit? I see the two coolant parts on the right are blocked and have little holes. Is that what it should look like for a '89 350 c.i.?

And what about the ends of the manifold, just use sealant and no gasket?
 
Last edited:

Old77

Administrator
Staff member
Admin
Joined
Aug 19, 2010
Posts
28,265
Reaction score
8,740
Location
Kansas City, Mo
First Name
Jacob
Truck Year
1977/1990/1991
Truck Model
C10 longbed/R1500 Burb/R3500 Dually
Engine Size
350/350/454
:popcorn: I'm sitting through to the end of this movie. I'm interested, too :)
 

89Suburban

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2010
Posts
24,536
Reaction score
5,829
Location
Southeast PA
First Name
Paw Paw
Truck Year
2007
Truck Model
Chevrolet Tahoe LT
Engine Size
5.3, 4WD
I wonder why those ports are blocked and have those piss holes and which end they go, front or back?
 

89Suburban

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2010
Posts
24,536
Reaction score
5,829
Location
Southeast PA
First Name
Paw Paw
Truck Year
2007
Truck Model
Chevrolet Tahoe LT
Engine Size
5.3, 4WD

89Suburban

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2010
Posts
24,536
Reaction score
5,829
Location
Southeast PA
First Name
Paw Paw
Truck Year
2007
Truck Model
Chevrolet Tahoe LT
Engine Size
5.3, 4WD
I guess every gasket has to be bought separately, the TBI base gasket, the EGR gasket, the thermostat gasket, the intake gaskets, god damn it. I need to hear from HPRC if he get's his online or local.
 

Swims350

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2010
Posts
4,351
Reaction score
812
Location
Logan WV
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
none
don't trust the pics you see, go to the parts store and yank them. That'll tell you more. Before I ran into that I'd check northern I bought my gasket set for 87-95 tbi setup for like $40 for mr. gasket I think. I did have to buy a tbi base gasket but you don't have to remove it from the intake unless it needs changed or worked on. Mine came with rubber front and rear end seals, although alot of ppl preffer rtv only, but not me, too afraid it won't be enough or it'll blow out or something. I only use it on the ends, in the corners, try to drop it straight on first time, if not them end gaskets can get moved out or in and not seal right, same for the sides. I actually put a couple dabs on the head surface to hold them on, just enough to make it sticky, like glue and not a thick bead or anything. You can do the same on the ends, put it on your finger and smear a line down, thin line, and then it'll help hold the end seals somewhat.
 

82chevy350

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2010
Posts
775
Reaction score
51
Location
Van Buren, AR
First Name
Joey
Truck Year
1982, 1976
Truck Model
C10, K10, K5
Engine Size
350, 350
they shouldnt be blocked off like that and you should have rubber pieces for the front and back i always put sealant on the rubber pieces
 

89Suburban

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2010
Posts
24,536
Reaction score
5,829
Location
Southeast PA
First Name
Paw Paw
Truck Year
2007
Truck Model
Chevrolet Tahoe LT
Engine Size
5.3, 4WD
don't trust the pics you see, go to the parts store and yank them. That'll tell you more. Before I ran into that I'd check northern I bought my gasket set for 87-95 tbi setup for like $40 for mr. gasket I think. I did have to buy a tbi base gasket but you don't have to remove it from the intake unless it needs changed or worked on. Mine came with rubber front and rear end seals, although alot of ppl preffer rtv only, but not me, too afraid it won't be enough or it'll blow out or something. I only use it on the ends, in the corners, try to drop it straight on first time, if not them end gaskets can get moved out or in and not seal right, same for the sides. I actually put a couple dabs on the head surface to hold them on, just enough to make it sticky, like glue and not a thick bead or anything. You can do the same on the ends, put it on your finger and smear a line down, thin line, and then it'll help hold the end seals somewhat.
So you leave the TBI on, and you can access the intake bolts and torque them? I also saw a screen filter for the TBI. It's round and plastic, like a collar. Anybody ever replace that?
 

89Suburban

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2010
Posts
24,536
Reaction score
5,829
Location
Southeast PA
First Name
Paw Paw
Truck Year
2007
Truck Model
Chevrolet Tahoe LT
Engine Size
5.3, 4WD
Also does the EGR have to be removed to access bolts?
 

Swims350

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2010
Posts
4,351
Reaction score
812
Location
Logan WV
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
none
I did not remove my egr, and the tbi I did, but did not have to. You can use a box end wrench or maybe a swivel or what not and get to them. In some cases not sure on tbi, but probably you don't even need an extension or swivel, the socket and ratchet will fit right on without them. I left me water neck on too, just removed the hose from it, you can do either.

As for the tbi screen it goes in where the fuel line goes in I think, should be an easy fix and be able to do it with the tbi mounted. I think the tbi base gasket aint cheap either, IMo you'd be better off if you remove it to put on a spacer, it comes with gaskets and hardware. I wished I would have. Not to mention my bolt broke for the tbi, I had to cut it off flush, then drill it, tap it, helicoil it and put it back on. it was not fun.

You just need to mark the dist. cap to rotor, rotor to dist. body and body to intake or firewall to put it back in right, or get the engine to tdc and pull it. You do that as mentioned before, pull no. 1 plug wire, pull the plug out, put your thumb over the hole, have someone to bump the key(after you unhook the coil so it doesn't start)then when it blows your finger off stop and check it. Look at the timing mark, see if it's lined up, and make sure the piston is all the way up with a screwdriver in the plug hole. Then look at the no. 1 wire, and when you pop the cap see if the rotor button(metal part) is pointing towards that tower.

Now on mine I had support braces for the accessories. I had to remove the one on the a/c comp. The one from the tensioner to the water neck/t-stat housing, and one on the alt.

remove the pcv vac line to the tbi, unhook it on the tbi side and move it out of the way, unhook the egr vac. line from one or the other or both, one end goes to the egr solenoid, or mine did. Remove the vac. line from the back of the tbi to the map sensor. unhook the tps iac, and any other ones you see, like the injectors. it has a rubber plug in front of the tbi once you unhook it from the top of each injector it slides out of the tbi body. There's another small vac. line to the egr solenoid I think, mine had 2 off the ps port of the tbi in front one to the smog pump I think and the other to the egr solenoid, pretty sure. Also got one for the charcoal can on the front. All those are pretty clear and you know they need removed when you get started.

You could unbolt the bracket with the egr solenoid, esc module, and map sensor, leave them hooked up and move it out of the way, or unhook them and unbolt it. Not sure if you can get on the intake bolts with it in place. As for the t-stat remove the hose and unbolt the ground wires, unhook the collant temp sensor, and you can leave it in the intake. Mine had a ground on the ds front or 2nd back intake bolt/stud, remove it then remove the stud. it like the t-stat housing had a nut to remove and remove the wire ring, then another nut to remove the stud. I had to unhook the metal tube that suuplies air to the brake booster, just used a wrench on it. it also bolts to the back of the head to hold it in place if you need more room to move it out of the way unbolt it. I just unhooked the heater hose via it's clamp, loosened the dist hold down and pulled it after I unhooked the 2 plugs from the bottom and all the plug wires, you can leave them on the cap and move it out of the way makes it a bit easier to reassemble not having to track and make sure each wire is right. This is esp. good for your first few times working on them. Mine had small hex bolt heads and phillips slots cut in them. The coil can stay mounted, but it's only two bolts and 3 wires to remove it, 2 plugins and one coil wire to the dist. Then you want 2 wrenches, one to fit the fuel line and one to fit the nut fitting that it threads into, hold that in place and crack the lines loose. Have a rag ready for the gas. I heard it works good to remove the fuel pump fuse and let it run the gas out, I would guess it would have to be running for this. Some tbi's hold pressure, some like mine doesn't. if it has pressure then gas it going to squirt, wear eye protection or look away at least. Then the intake bolts come out.

I think that's everything, at least what I can remember without looking at it.
 
Last edited:

skysurfer

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2010
Posts
2,648
Reaction score
2,023
Location
west coast
First Name
John
Truck Year
1989 Suburban
Truck Model
V2500
Engine Size
5.7/TH400/NP241C
When I removed the intake on my 383 to have it bored it had gaskets exactly like 89S pictured. This particular motor was built by Smeding Performance (the guy that builds strokers for the magazines) and had been run for 7k miles with said gaskets. When it goes back together it will get the same type, which is a Fel-Pro MS 93317.
 

89Suburban

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2010
Posts
24,536
Reaction score
5,829
Location
Southeast PA
First Name
Paw Paw
Truck Year
2007
Truck Model
Chevrolet Tahoe LT
Engine Size
5.3, 4WD
Damn, that's a good post. I attached some pics of where my heater hose comes into the manifold, it's really half assed. Looks like it used to be a one piece pipe/hose assembly and somebody cut it and stuck a hose over the pipe, and as you can se it dribbles and just aint right. I am trying to figure out a way to just have a barbed fitting in place of it and just hook the hose right to the manifold and get rid of that pipe. Anybody see this before?
 
Last edited:

89Suburban

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2010
Posts
24,536
Reaction score
5,829
Location
Southeast PA
First Name
Paw Paw
Truck Year
2007
Truck Model
Chevrolet Tahoe LT
Engine Size
5.3, 4WD
When I removed the intake on my 383 to have it bored it had gaskets exactly like 89S pictured. This particular motor was built by Smeding Performance (the guy that builds strokers for the magazines) and had been run for 7k miles with said gaskets. When it goes back together it will get the same type, which is a Fel-Pro MS 93317.
:think:

:Good or Bad:
 

skysurfer

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2010
Posts
2,648
Reaction score
2,023
Location
west coast
First Name
John
Truck Year
1989 Suburban
Truck Model
V2500
Engine Size
5.7/TH400/NP241C
Gimme a few minutes, I'll go get a pic of that.

Here ya' go. The pipe ends at the hose clamp on the left. Notice it's held with a clamp & screw to that bracket off the end of the valve cover. The same bracket also is used to keep the plug wires in order.

You must be registered for see images attach


The gaskets have the blocked ports at the rear of the engine. I thought it was strange to have those blocked off and made a point to put the old gaskets oriented properly on the legs of the engine stand below so I would remember how to put them back on.
 
Last edited:

89Suburban

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2010
Posts
24,536
Reaction score
5,829
Location
Southeast PA
First Name
Paw Paw
Truck Year
2007
Truck Model
Chevrolet Tahoe LT
Engine Size
5.3, 4WD
Sky, which ends are blocked, the front or back of the motor?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
42,188
Posts
910,942
Members
33,681
Latest member
squareframe
Top